PDH Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 A real basic question but can't find any similiar thread so I though I'd ask. Just starting out on my first kit after a few years away (it's a Tamiya Cromwell IV by the way). In the old days I always used Humbrol Liquid Poly cement. Currently in my tool draw I have Revell Contacta Liquid, which I find a bit thick, and EMA Plastic Weld, which I prefer out of the two. Is there anything out there better than the Plastic Weld? Would prefer something readily available from the local model shop but happy to obtain via post if necessary. Any recommendations? Thanks Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gundylunch Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Tamiya Extra Thin if you can get it, it's superb, sadly no longer imported by the main dealers in the UK ( Got something in it the EEC does not like ), I do have 1 bottle left and have more coming from Hong Kong in about 3 weeks time, I also have a source that i could get some from on Sunday at the IPMS Avon show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pielstick Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 (edited) I'll cast my vote for Tamiya Extra Thin as well. It's quite hard to get hold of in the UK, I ordered three jars on Ebay from a seller in Hong Kong. I believe Gunze Sangyo also do their own version which is pretty much the same as the Tamiya Extra Thin. Again the problem with Gunze is the same... it's hard to get hold of in the UK. The good old Humbrol Polystyrene Cement (the thing stuff in the glass jar) is still perfectly good, cheap and easy to get hold of. I have some of the Precision Poly (the same as Revell Contacta) and I also find it to be too thick, and the needle always seems to be blocked. I also use Plastic Weld from time to time, the problem is it evaporates very quickly and I find it hard to apply and bring the parts together before the stuff has all evaporated. It also seems to evaporate from the bottle very quickly, after you've used it a few times you notice the bottle is half empty! Edited August 21, 2009 by Pielstick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
entlim Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 extra thin, if not, then Mr cement- every bit as good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Fleming Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 I suspect it's not so much the contents as the labelling that prevents Tamiya being sold here. I use a mix, but often use the Methylene Chloride based ones (Ambroid Pro-Weld, Tenax, Plastic Weld) - trick with them is to brush the parts lightly, then hold then to gether THEN apply more cement form the inside - let capilliary action do the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thx6667 Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Tamiya Extra Thin and Plastiweld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 I tend to use Humbrol for general work, MekPak for detail work and Plastic Weld for anything they can't do! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gengriz Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 (edited) EMA Plastic Weld for instant joins. Normally I dont even touch the parts before joining, but just position and brush with a very thin brush along the seam. Revell Contacta Precision (with the thin metal tube applicator) for parts that might need to be moved around to the correct position Humbrol Poly Cement (tube) for anything that needs a bit of strengthening/reinforcing as well as moving around to position, or wher the fit isnt perfect and the volume of the cement will be enough to avoid any filling (wings normally). Superglue - for instant fix small contact areas (e.g. weapons to pylons), or small contact parts that are in awkward positions (e'g folded helo blades) White Glue (Micro Krystal Klear) for canopies. Kleer/Future - canopies and for small Phot Etch (e.g. windscreen wipers) to clear parts. Edited August 21, 2009 by gengriz 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 It is illegal to sell Tamiya extra thin in the EU, I've been told the fine is currently €10k, something to do with a restricted chemical in the mix, similar to there spray paints, so I've been told. The Mr Cememnt is legal and just about as good from all reports. EMA is an old favorite and available widely. Other glues Super glues - Pacers Zap branded ones are a good range. White glues - Pacer Canopy glue is a PVA that dries clear and has a good grip. Other glues, Gator Grip glue is an acrylic resin and holds well, dries clear and G-S Hypo cement is a clear glue that is good for sticking clear parts, smells a little like the airfix cement of my younger days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 (edited) Tamiya Extra-thin cement gets my vote also - the cement is excellent, but even better is the handy jar and brush that it comes in. Ideal for the job. EMA Plastic Weld is also superb, however the tall thin bottle it comes in is less than ideal as it's just asking to be knocked over when open - spilling it's entire contents on to your working area; I was wondering about cleaning out an empty Tamiya jar and using it for the EMA.... I also use Revell contacta (the one with the needle-thin applicator) ZAP-A-GAP superglue, slightly thicker formula for filling gaps between awkward parts. Humbrol Clear-Fix and/or Micro Crystal Clear - for canopies. Karl Edited August 22, 2009 by Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobs_Buckles Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Mr Cement is the dogs dongles. I also use Gator glue for etch and temporary fixing. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Fleming Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 It is illegal to sell Tamiya extra thin in the EU, I've been told the fine is currently €10k, something to do with a restricted chemical in the mix, similar to there spray paints, so I've been told. Interesting, I know of at least one retailer selling it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little-cars Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 So do I. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Tamiya Extra-thin cement gets my vote also - the cement is excellent, but even better is the handy jar and brush that it comes in. Ideal for the job.EMA Plastic Weld is also superb, however the tall thin bottle it comes in is less than ideal as it's just asking to be knocked over when open - spilling it's entire contents on to your working area; I was wondering about cleaning out an empty Tamiya jar and using it for the EMA.... I also use Revell contacta (the one with the needle-thin applicator) ZAP-A-GAP superglue, slightly thicker formula for filling gaps between awkward parts. Humbrol Clear-Fix and/or Micro Crystal Clear - for canopies. Karl Superglue a 4 inch square of plastic card to the bottom of your Plastic Weld or Mek-Pak bottles - solves the problem of them getting knocked over. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Fleming Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 So do I. Must see if I can find a safety data sheet for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 EMA Plastic Weld is also superb, however the tall thin bottle it comes in is less than ideal as it's just asking to be knocked over when open - spilling it's entire contents on to your working area... I've killed two keyboards & half a mouse doing just that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pielstick Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Meh - I knocked over a jar of Tamiya Extra Thin last week. Luckily it missed the model, but now the grid and scales on my cutting mat look like a work of modern art. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stonar Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 It is illegal to sell Tamiya extra thin in the EU, I've been told the fine is currently €10k, something to do with a restricted chemical in the mix, similar to there spray paints, so I've been told. Well I never knew that. I've got a couple of jars in the old cupboard but just checked online with a couple of retailers I know sell it here in the UK. One was out of stock but the other had a pile. It seems lots of people are using it here anyway! Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Tango Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 I generally use MEK-PAK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdriaN (MLT) Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Iv always used revell glue. its the one with a needle. it glues well and smells... quite good, unlike tamiya extra thin and MM!! they STINK of poison! I dont like extra thin because it dries so fast. its only ideal for 'glue flowing' when you touch the brush and the glue flows into your seams. which is what it is made for right? i use super glue but what i hate about it is that it mists up after drying :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdriaN (MLT) Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 (edited) I have some of the Precision Poly (the same as Revell Contacta) and I also find it to be too thick, and the needle always seems to be blocked. That use to happen to me with the revell needle one... almost evertime i used it (blocking up). Iv found a way to unclog it. i will post how soon in tools & tips- other tools Another thing, to prevent it cloggin is, when your ready from using it, clean the tip and make sure you have to glue spilling out by itself. when you see thers no glue, close it without pressing the tube Edited August 22, 2009 by AdriaN (MLT) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Sworld Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Iv found a way to unclog it. i will post how soon in tools & tips- other tools Ohhhhh.... Yes please! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M4rk Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 I have some of the Precision Poly (the same as Revell Contacta) and I also find it to be too thick, and the needle always seems to be blocked. Not wishing to steal AdriaN (MLT)'s thunder, but I use this stuff for the majority of my sticking and I get round the clogging issue by poking a length of fuse wire down the tube, with the excess bent over the top at the tip to stop it disappearing down the tube. I leave this in situ when not using the glue as it provides a good seal and renders the standard plastic lid a bit pointless. Never have a clogged glue probe now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thx6667 Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 Bought some Mr Glue today from Bob and MDC, looking for ward to using that along with all the other Japanese goodies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The wooksta V2.0 Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 Plasticweld all the way for me. Also use it as brush cleaner, which has the added benefit of colouring the stuff, so you know it's run down the seam you're joining. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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