Jump to content

1:72 Revell A-10A “Desert Belle”


DarthCake

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the positive comments! ^_^

Roughly the next steps:

- optional: adding more detail to the wheel bays (wires etc) (depending on how patient I am at the start of it :P )

- painting the wheel bays

- attaching the front wheel bay

- attaching nose and gatling gun

- adding rest of the details (antennas, sensors, ...)

- masking (canopies, wheel bays, engine intakes)

- paint camouflage

- adding gears, doors, ladder and others.

- adding decals

(Not strictly this order.)

Edited by DarthCake
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update:

I just had to add some extra detail in the front wheel bay -_-

A10_27.jpg

A10_28.jpg

A10_29.jpg

And even more wires.

A10_30.jpg

A10_31.jpg

With the base paint coat.

A10_32.jpg

Now i need to find a way to let the extra details stand out a bit. All gray is so flat. :P

I used some reference photos found on aircraftresourcecenter.com like here and here.

Next i might do the other wheel bays as well. ;)

I hope you did like this update as usual ^_^

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh yeah baby!

looking good Darth

you started so you have to do the other wheel bays now :D

subtle washes and a bit of dry brushing will do the trick?

You make it sound so easy. :o

I don't have any acrylic or oil based paints. So I'm trying this with enamel paint and need to be very carefully. I don't have any experiences with washes. Especially not in such small spaces. Don't know if i will survive this :P.

What color should be used for dry brushing this? The wheel bay is all light gray, so silver won't stand out?

Edited by DarthCake
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Darth

It will still be possible to do in enamels but a bit trickier and a lot slower.

Would recommend a lighter grey if possible or as a last resort the same grey with white added to it- though personally i find this unsatisfactory and unconvincing.

Basically, washes work better over a well cured gloss finish

Drybrushing over matt, which provides a bit of a key for the paint to grip.

It might be fiddly to dry brush in a small space like a wheel well, but not impossible.

The trick is not to overload with paint and clog up the detail. You will be able to use the capilliary action to draw the wash into recesses.

Allow to dry and use a matt varnish to seal in the pigment. Then dry brush when the varnish has cured.

Remember that by using a lot of thinners will break down the binding medium in the paint so it will not be as tough as a usual

The good thing in my view is that it is in a place that is not usually seen so any mistakes aren't as critical. :)

So it is a good chance to try out new techniques.

hth

Walrus Von Paintyexpert :fraidnot:

Edited by walrus
cos my tiepin is crooked
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Time for an update. Well actually I have been a little bit inactive the past 2 months, so not that much did happen -_-

Some details added (that little tube in the pit, and the HUD are added)

A10_33.jpg

The cockpit glass is dipped in future and some PE parts are added.

A10_34.jpg

The front wheel bay with all the lead is attached, also the nose is attached.

A10_35.jpg

The main wheel bays are painted, and dry-brushed with black. Extra wires will be added later.

A10_36.jpg

Masking is done and the painting can start!

A10_37.jpg

Time to start with the weapons of the A10.

A10_38.jpg

PE set for the weapons :frantic: I'm not yet fished, as you can see.

A10_39.jpg

I need to replace almost every fin. :o

A10_40.jpg

So one of these I will start with the painting of the camouflage. Probably this will take a few weeks :(

Meanwhile I will work on the other side parts like weapons, landing gear, ... ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just seen these progress pics and wondered how you get that copper wire to stick so firmly without getting loads of glue everywhere.

Whenever I try that in order to anchor the wire wherever I want it, there's always loads of glue residue left around the wire afterwards.

Also when you have multiple wires next to each other, do you lay each wire down - one by one, also what glue do you use and how do you apply it exactly where you want it.

I have tried with fine copper wire and slightly stiffer modellers wire and I can never seem to get it as tidy as seen on models as yourself for instance.

Excellent quality build by the way

regards

Martin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The "thicker" wires where not really a problem to glue. Using CA glue, placing some drops of glue on the attachment points with an other wire before placing the coper wire itself. This shouldn't leave to much glue residue. I did bended them before I glued them. I don't see how you can do it the other way around.

The smaller wires are a different story. I used a tinny multi core wire. Striped only a little bit for start and glues the wires together with a little bit CA. Then i stripped the rest of the wire and attached the wires at there first attachment point. As long as they go strait, there isn't much a problem. But when they need a little bend somewhere or need to run over a bumpy surface like in this situation, it gets harder. The wires split up to everywhere except where you want them. Naturally you take the glue and start to glue it, but it doesn't stick where you want it. Some more glue added, still no stick. More glue, ... till you end up with a glue bath like me. :wall:

I didn't used my "glue" wire to drop the CA glue on the right place. I better did.

So its not all that perfect. And i can only suggest to use an other wire to drop the CA glue on the place where the wire should be attached before placing the wire itself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work!...Especially with all that Photo-Etch. I go crazy just trying to get a single Photo-Etched HUD in place.

:popcorn:

Mark

Thx! I really do understand you frustration on those little metal parts ;).

Just a little bit process in the project ^_^ .

Sidewinders with their new fins.

A10_42.jpg

A few bombs with their new fins.

A10_43.jpg

The first colour is painted. It looks like I will do the whole camouflage freehand with my badger 150. That should be no problem and it is also a nice practice for me.

A10_41.jpg

A10_44.jpg

The next two colours will follow one of these days.

I hope you enjoyed this little update :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Marry Christmas and a happy New year!

Since I have nothing else to-do then eating and drinking last days, I decided to continue with the painting. :)

A10_45.jpg

The inner side of the canopy looks kind of black. So I painted the first layer black. The upper layer will be the colour of camouflage.

A10_46.jpg

Replacing all the bomb fins is taking a while. I can't replace multiple at once because then i screw it up glueing all together :P.

A10_47.jpg

A10_48.jpg

Paint job done! Three colour camouflage. Wasn't that easy for me :o. Some struggling with the paint and badger 150, but all together it did go well. :)

The three colours are first painted freehand for the camouflage. Then a little bit masking for the front end of the wings to get a sharp looking edge.

A10_49.jpg

I really like those colours ^_^ .

I hope you did enjoyed this update!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

One would think I have fallen asleep for the last two months, but no, I have been working on the smaller parts at a very slow tempo. ^_^

I have been wiring the undercarriage and detailing the weapons with PE.

A10_50.jpg

Front wheel undercarriage

A10_51.jpg

A10_52.jpg

Main wheels undercarriage (in process)

A10_53.jpg

(done)

A10_54.jpg

A10_55.jpg

A10_56.jpg

Now i need to paint the undercarriage, weapons, doors, wheels, ...

Also need to paint some details on the plane like the side panels and engine blades.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Thx for the positive comments ^_^

I'm still painting the little parts at the moment. So, not much process so far :(.

But i do have something nice to look at:

A10_3D2b.jpg

(keep enough distance to from your screen, about 1meter should do)

This is a 3D cross-eye image. You don't need glasses to see this 3D image.

Check here for help to see the image:

3D view technique

and

Have fun watching :)

:hypnotised:

Edited by DarthCake
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Still objects are not so hard to take "3D" pictures from. I used a tripod. This allows me to frame the object, focus to make the first picture. Then i moved it for about 6-10cm, together with the camera parallel with the objects i wanted to photograph. So no change in height, no change in distance and no change in the focal length. Only the object are shifted like you would get when viewing trough one eye and then viewing trough the other one.

After you got the two pictures, you need to align them up with some photo edit programs.

For moving objects you need either two camera's or a mirror splitter thing. These technics are quite old and are hyped form time to time. There are a lot of resources on the net about this topic.

I really like the 3D effect myself. I might post some more when he is finished ^_^

Edited by DarthCake
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Gloss coat and decals are on. Little bit weathering is done. Almost ready for a flat coat.

The gears are added.

Doors and hatches are going on now.

The bombs and rockets are still waiting on their right colors.

I feel the finish is coming closer.

Pictures will follow!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...