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Typhoon 1/72


GrahamEM

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I've started on this model by Revell and i'm finding it a challenge as it's my 1st model, after always wanting to try modelling but never really took the step and buy a kit. I find the instructions pretty simple but i have found some mistakes like painting the edges of the clear cockpit canopy in 9 matt when it should be the main colour of the aircraft !

Having done that i got white spirit onto the clear plastic which has discoloured it and made it misty by melting into it, now it is all scratched so that will look bad, i will continue with it even though now i have bought the 1/48 model which is bigger and may be a bit easier.

I have tweezers and knives and brushes, what else can be very handy when delicate moves are needed ?

also found that when glueing painted parts the glue can make the paint come off when sliding into position.

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Hi & welcome to the hobby and BM.

I keep a lump of BluTac on the top of a old coffee jar (which is filled with lead shot for ballast!) & when painting things like wheels ect,I cut the spru off & stick the sprue end in the BluTac.That was it keeps it steady while painting.You can get a low stick tape to edge the canopy when painting,dont use masking tape as it leaves a sticky residue on the plastic which is a bugger to remove! I'm not a fan of this Maskol stuff for masking canopys.

I also have a old metal pencil case as you will always get bits break off the sprue & lie in the kit box.Put them in the pencil box & you wont lose them.

Good brush to use for dusting off models is a girls blusher make up brush!I kid you not!!The long fat bristle head means you wont break off bits when dusting.

Instead of pliers for cutting the sprues,invest in a pair of fine electrical snips,like for fibre optic working.Nail files & those nail file pads (cheap as chips from Superdrug) are better than sheets of sandpaper.(the file sticks last for ages)

Anway,

Welcome to Mad Mikes Play Away site for the over forties!

Merv

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:welcome: GEM relax dont worry about it it's all part of learning, if you want hints and tips check out the Tools&Tips page here. If you go onto the youtube pages search for Hyperscale the guy presenting the videos is call Brett Green his videos give hints & tips on all aspects of aircraft modelling.

This vid is one of his on removing parts from the sprues

Here is the link to his youtube page

Brett Greens Youtube page

P.S. Dont worry your amongst friends here any thing we can do to help just ask, remember "There are no stupid questions just stupid people" if you dont ask you wont know. :speak_cool:

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Welcome GEM and the most useful piece of advice I've found in modelling is "Just try it". Most things aren't as difficult as they seem to be and I've found fear to be my only enemy. Most things that seem to go wrong can be repaired, short of actually cracking a canopy I've not found many "disasters" that I can't recover from. Your canopy can be probably be repaired with superfine meshes or a three grit nail buffer from the cosmetics dept and some polish and then a dip in future. If at some point soon you end up with a spare canopy try scratching it up a bit and seeing if you can repair it this will give you the necessary confidence and experience.

One basic tip I'll give you which I didn't find out about until pretty recently, is for seams and steps where parts are joined, gently take your knife and scrape along the seam with the blade at right angles to it. Cuts down sanding to almost nothing.

Also the quality of the finished build is directly proportional to the amount of fun you had doing it.

Keep asking the questions as they come up and have some fun!

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Is it much easier to paint parts on the sprues ?

I see now why it's far more important to paint before glueing to get the sharpness of the part placement, i have paint filling the tiny gaps between wings etc.

Also i think eventually i'll need to spray parts as brushing can look terrible on the larger bits.

looking forward to getting my 1/48 typhoon, i'll try not to rush this time !

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Welcome GEM and the most useful piece of advice I've found in modelling is "Just try it". Most things aren't as difficult as they seem to be and I've found fear to be my only enemy. Most things that seem to go wrong can be repaired, short of actually cracking a canopy I've not found many "disasters" that I can't recover from. Your canopy can be probably be repaired with superfine meshes or a three grit nail buffer from the cosmetics dept and some polish and then a dip in future. If at some point soon you end up with a spare canopy try scratching it up a bit and seeing if you can repair it this will give you the necessary confidence and experience.

One basic tip I'll give you which I didn't find out about until pretty recently, is for seams and steps where parts are joined, gently take your knife and scrape along the seam with the blade at right angles to it. Cuts down sanding to almost nothing.

Also the quality of the finished build is directly proportional to the amount of fun you had doing it.

Keep asking the questions as they come up and have some fun!

Liked the ena Sharples look better

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Hi Gem

.. it is easier to paint some parts on the sprue especially the interior i.e joystick , rudder pedals etc .

I also would recommend buying decent brushes (sable) not man made bristles , as the sable brushes are much better for brush painting .I have an airbrush but as yet not used it. The scale i build are mostly 1/32 and out of the box although i am no pro modeller you can achieve excellent results with brushing.I would recommend lifecolor or xtracrylix acrylic paints thinned with a little water ,using these i have never suffered with "brush strokes" ....

xtracrylics are gloss finish and can place decals straight over without lacquering 1st , then depending on finish you can seal with matt,satin,or gloss finish all over .

Lifecolor is matt and best to gloss over then affix decals ,afterwards seal with final coat of your choice of finish

To fill thin gaps i use vallejo 400 plastic putty , or larger gaps squadron fast drying white putty

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Is it much easier to paint parts on the sprues ?

I see now why it's far more important to paint before glueing to get the sharpness of the part placement, i have paint filling the tiny gaps between wings etc.

for some parts - those that are small and easily lost, those that are a separate colour. Similarly, parts that you won't reach when the aircraft is built but can be seen.

For the main airframe colours, it's usally best to paint them after you have assembled them.

One tip I would give is to treat each model as a learning process - and don't give up if it doesn't look like one by Skii or Drewe!! There are all levels in the hobby, and like everything else getting better takes practice! I've been modelling 34 years and still make mistakes!

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for some parts - those that are small and easily lost, those that are a separate colour. Similarly, parts that you won't reach when the aircraft is built but can be seen.

For the main airframe colours, it's usally best to paint them after you have assembled them.

One tip I would give is to treat each model as a learning process - and don't give up if it doesn't look like one by Skii or Drewe!! There are all levels in the hobby, and like everything else getting better takes practice! I've been modelling 34 years and still make mistakes!

....Superglueing the model to your hand....slitting a thumb open with a rusty xacto blade....spilling paint over the wifes new shagpile.....Ignoring the wife when she wants to go shopping & your into step 2..... :shithappens:

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Hello Gem

Just enjoy it and take it at your own pace, don't rush anything. I brush paint my models using thinned enamels and use a flat brush, it seems to work quite well, you build up several layers takes a bit longer but hey ho, the missus is always telling me not to rush, why don't I go for a silver medal instead of trying for gold all the time!!!

All the best

Chris

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Is it much easier to paint parts on the sprues ?

As everyone has said small parts yes but it's gonna be a problem with the main airframe, you'll end up with a visible seam when you put the bigger parts together, that you'll have to touch up and you're probably going to have to do some sanding at some point which will take off the paint you've put on.

Spray cans are a great way to step up when you feel like it, I still use 'em when I can get away with it.

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