tornado64 Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 a tip i have not seen any mention of here that i used to use for model railways for nice realistic windows ( smaller ones at least ) particularly on airliners ( with this technique you can throw away the cabin portholes and build fill and spray model then do the windows ) it is also such a simple technique equipment required ...bottle of humbrol clear fix canopy glue ...cocktail stick..... the technique dip coctail stick in clearfix run round edges swiftly gradualy working to centre of window then once all clearfix is across and joined to form full window withdraw cocktail stick to leave completed window ( practice makes perfect ) the result is perfectly flush windows ( far superior to kit items ) there is obviously a limit to size but for the smaller window nothing comes close Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 Microscale have a product specifically designed (marketed) for this job.. it's called Micro Crystal Clear. It's not something I've used, but I think it's fairly well known Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado64 Posted December 4, 2008 Author Share Posted December 4, 2008 never come across that but clearfix works well helps for those that haven't seen before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan P Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 I use it too - i've managed to use it for transparencies up to nearly 5x5mm, if you are very careful! Larger windows may leave bubbles in the set transparency, but you can just pop them out and do it again. Never used Microscale version though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Mullen Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 I tried the Clearfix method you described when I built my 1/72 Concorde, but it took me 30 minutes to do 2 windows, so I switched to using PVA Glue instead - took 10 minutes to do the remaining windows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Gibson Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 I use it too - i've managed to use it for transparencies up to nearly 5x5mm, if you are very careful!Larger windows may leave bubbles in the set transparency, but you can just pop them out and do it again. Never used Microscale version though. I gave up on Clearfix. I tried it for Camera windows on my Dynavector Wyvern. The problem was that it went on great, but bubbles seemed to form during the drying process. Any thoughts, as it really does make clear windows? I've also used Crystal Clear, but it's anything but clear - only translucent at best. In wet weather it also sags a bit. Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard M Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 The thing to remember with Clearfix is that it does not dry completely flat, the centre is thinner with it being thicker around the edges, so this will distort the view through. Not really noticeable on small airliner windows but on larger areas can be seen. I used it to do the smaller windows on my Control Tower 1/76, the larger roof observation being done with clear plastic card. Best Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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