Removing Klear (Pledge)

[Timmas]

I'm contacting the BM Brains Trust to see if someone can give me a steer.

 

I've been using Pledge to dip canopies and have found it works ok but have recently come across a problem. I've dipped a canopy and wicked the surplus off (or at least I thought I had) but now it's dry, there seem to be a couple of small runs, or distortions, on the part. I've re-dipped it and tried washing it off in warm soapy water as suggested in this thread that Shaun began some years ago, but it hasn't lifted it off.

 

 

I've decided to give ammonia a try as it's listed as a removal agent on the back of the Pledge bottle but most everyday window cleaning products seem to have had ammonia replaced with vinegar, and I can't find a screenwash that contains it either. I have found some household ammonia on Amazon though. From what I gather from the Q & A's, it's 5-9.5% strength (even though it's advertised as 100% ammonia) so I'm wondering: (a) Should I dilute it further before dipping the canopy in it and (b) how long should I leave it before washing it off?

The canopies in question are for a discontinued 1/72 scale TSR2 from Airfix, so I know I won't be able to get a replacement part and I don't want to ruin them!

 

Does anyone know please?

 

[Chillidragon]

I can't speak for clear parts, but I have heard of people using Ammonia solution for airbrush cleaning.  I use it for brush brush cleaning but CAVEAT!  Work outdoors and upwind.  The sole reason that Ammonia has never been used as a war gas it that it's amazingly soluble in water.

[VMA131Marine]

You can use ammonia-based cleaners to remove Pledge. Ammonia shouldn't damage clear plastic so I don't see any need to dilute the stuff you have available. 

The other thing that seems to work is soaking the clear part in Pledge itself. This won't work as fast as ammonia but it will dissolve a previously applied layer.

[Timmas]

1 hour ago, Chillidragon said:

I can't speak for clear parts, but I have heard of people using Ammonia solution for airbrush cleaning.  I use it for brush brush cleaning but CAVEAT!  Work outdoors and upwind.  The sole reason that Ammonia has never been used as a war gas it that it's amazingly soluble in water.

Thanks for the response. I'd heard that it's a good airbrush cleaner but haven't tried it yet. when I do I'll bear your warning in mind!

[Timmas]

1 hour ago, VMA131Marine said:

You can use ammonia-based cleaners to remove Pledge. Ammonia shouldn't damage clear plastic so I don't see any need to dilute the stuff you have available. 

The other thing that seems to work is soaking the clear part in Pledge itself. This won't work as fast as ammonia but it will dissolve a previously applied layer.

Ah thanks. I tried dissolving the Pledge in another dip of Pledge but it didn't seem to do anything. Maybe i didn't leave it in for long enough. I'll try that again first before the ammonia!

[Bonhoff]

You should be able to get ammonia from Boots, that's where I got mine from.

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

I use window cleaner. They still make them with ammonia but you have to look around. I have had some success with hot water and Isopropyl alcohol.

[PhoenixII]

2 hours ago, VMA131Marine said:

You can use ammonia-based cleaners to remove Pledge. Ammonia shouldn't damage clear plastic so I don't see any need to dilute the stuff you have available. 

The other thing that seems to work is soaking the clear part in Pledge itself. This won't work as fast as ammonia but it will dissolve a previously applied layer.

 

16 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

I use window cleaner. They still make them with ammonia but you have to look around. I have had some success with hot water and Isopropyl alcohol.

Ahh, but your BOTH in the US of A.

What we're NOT allowed to buy over here, at times, beggers belief, 'cos we might injure ourselves!

Me? I subscribe to the Darwinian theory

 

To keep the thread on track............................

Tim, you can use plain malt vinegar, you will have to leave it quite a while, and use some form of 'soft' abrasive, i.e. a piece of old 'T' shirt, but it should shift it.

It always worked on the floors of quite a few clubs I used to deal with, bleach and disinfectant are good for killing the smell of vinegar!

 

HTH

Paul

[Timmas]

51 minutes ago, Bonhoff said:

You should be able to get ammonia from Boots, that's where I got mine from.

Thanks. I tried B&Q, Screwfix, Sainsbury's and Halfords but didn't get as far as Boots. When I got back empty-handed I turned to Amazon who came up trumps. It'll be here tomorrow. 

[Timmas]

9 minutes ago, PhoenixII said:

 

Ahh, but your BOTH in the US of A.

What we're NOT allowed to buy over here, at times, beggers belief, 'cos we might injure ourselves!

Me? I subscribe to the Darwinian theory

 

To keep the thread on track............................

Tim, you can use plain malt vinegar, you will have to leave it quite a while, and use some form of 'soft' abrasive, i.e. a piece of old 'T' shirt, but it should shift it.

It always worked on the floors of quite a few clubs I used to deal with, bleach and disinfectant are good for killing the smell of vinegar!

 

HTH

Paul

Ooh, I hadn't realised malt vinegar would shift it. I'll bear that in mind if it happens again. Thanks for the tip. I'm being cautious on this because the kit's been out of production for years and spares won't be readily available. I've got some ammonia coming so am pinning my hopes on that.

 

And yes, from what I gather, ammonia has been taken out of most window cleaners because of Health & Safety, or the EU, or something or other 'cos it's "too dangerous to be left in the hands of mere mortals".

[Timmas]

43 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

I use window cleaner. They still make them with ammonia but you have to look around. I have had some success with hot water and Isopropyl alcohol.

Thanks Corsairffu, that sounds like a good option too. I'll keep a note of it.

[RobertF]

I always use ammonia diluted with water, the dilution rate depending on the thickness of the Pledge layer, but usually about 50-50. Let it soak for a while and then gently remove what's left of the Pledge with an old toothbrush.

 

Ammonia is available in the bigger DIY outlets, in the Netherlands at least...

 

HTH

 

Robert

[Timmas]

3 hours ago, RobertF said:

I always use ammonia diluted with water, the dilution rate depending on the thickness of the Pledge layer, but usually about 50-50. Let it soak for a while and then gently remove what's left of the Pledge with an old toothbrush.

 

Ammonia is available in the bigger DIY outlets, in the Netherlands at least...

 

HTH

 

Robert

That's worth knowing, thanks Robert!

[Chillidragon]

Mine is Boots brand, but they may query your use.  Or maybe that's just England.

[LotusArenco]

On 4/22/2018 at 2:21 PM, Chillidragon said:

 I have heard of people using Ammonia solution for airbrush cleaning.

Be careful. Ammonia will eventually strip the chrome off your airbrush if used neat, it probably won’t do the brass much good either.

 

 

Mart

[Chillidragon]

No, indeed.  You need to be swift with the rinse afterwards, and only use it for cleaning out Klear/Pledge or similar.  No point using it for anything else.

[Timmas]

5 hours ago, LotusArenco said:

Be careful. Ammonia will eventually strip the chrome off your airbrush if used neat, it probably won’t do the brass much good either.

 

 

Mart

 

5 hours ago, Chillidragon said:

No, indeed.  You need to be swift with the rinse afterwards, and only use it for cleaning out Klear/Pledge or similar.  No point using it for anything else.

Thanks for that tip chaps. I think I'll stick with airbrush cleaner tbh. It might be a bit dearer but it sounds a lot safer 

[Chillidragon]

Yes to both.  But does it clear the aforementioned product?  I would check first, and if it does, then yes, definitely.  Always choose the least hazardous option!

[Timmas]

4 hours ago, Chillidragon said:

Yes to both.  But does it clear the aforementioned product?  I would check first, and if it does, then yes, definitely.  Always choose the least hazardous option!

I think if I’m quick enough, clean water should do it, followed by airbrush cleaner. At least, that’s my thought at the moment.

[Steve Coombs]

I've been using some W5 floor cleaner from LIDL with success.

The snag is, this is German stuff; I don't know if UK branches stock it.

The EAN code is 2080 9348, if that helps at all.

[Timmas]

11 hours ago, Steve Coombs said:

I've been using some W5 floor cleaner from LIDL with success.

The snag is, this is German stuff; I don't know if UK branches stock it.

The EAN code is 2080 9348, if that helps at all.

Thanks for that. Next time I'm near a Lidl I'll see if they've got it and if they have, what it can be removed with. My German is a bit rusty but I might b able to work it out!

[azureglo]

Easiest is good ol' 99.8% IPA ( not India Pale Ale but that might work too), you can buy litre bottle of for £8-10 delivered (google shiny Hardware Ebay) and I also  use it as prep before painting to shift finger oils and get a clean surface.. Have left over Futured canopies in a small covered shot glass over night and removed and residual Future with pointy Qtip

 

 

[Timmas]

Thanks @azureglo I've seen and heard of IPA being used for a clean up prior to painting so think I'll get a bottle of that too. And the other one, why not? It'll always come in handy!

 

Thanks to everyone else who has commented and given advice too, it's very much appreciated. What I've done is to dunk the canopy parts in ammonia and gently rubbed them with a cotton bud. That seems to have done the trick. My next quandary is; do I dip them again?. 

[LotusArenco]

Yes.

At least if you cock it up, you now know how to fix it!

 

Seriously though, dipping does make a difference and the cockpit/canopy area is one of the areas that draws the eye.

 

Mart

[Timmas]

18 hours ago, LotusArenco said:

At least if you cock it up, you now know how to fix it!

Ha, quite. Next time I'll make sure I have a darned good 🤓 at it while I'm doing it!