melvyn hiscock Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Fighter Pilot's Heaven, the book Lopez wrote about his time as a test plot, is one of the best aviation books I have ever read. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cati Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Hi Peter, I have been a long time lurker and wanted to say how i am looking forward to this. I wanted to contribute... so here is my offer. You can get a free license for 360 fusion as a hobby user, no free period all yours. I am starting to learn at the moment, but to show you how quickly you can pick it up, I would take a look at what Roy is doing in the car section with the Delange build. He is a brand new user and is doing some frankly awesome stuff Hope this helps and looking forward to following this build. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted April 7, 2018 Author Share Posted April 7, 2018 On 04/04/2018 at 10:33 PM, cati said: Hi Peter, I have been a long time lurker and wanted to say how i am looking forward to this. I wanted to contribute... so here is my offer. You can get a free license for 360 fusion as a hobby user, no free period all yours. I am starting to learn at the moment, but to show you how quickly you can pick it up, I would take a look at what Roy is doing in the car section with the Delange build. He is a brand new user and is doing some frankly awesome stuff Hope this helps and looking forward to following this build. Ooo that sounds interesting - I will have to take a look. Thanks very much .. I finished the two radio's - there are a few bits missing that will be done in PE to go with them, but I am calling these done.. ..now I need some help Ford in their infinate wisdom decided to call their new 2017 car the P51 Mustang, so all my internet searches for wheels & tyres (& dimensions) are just getting me car pictures... I found a good side profile and started to make the hub.. ..what I really need are dimensions - does anyone know the hub & tyre dimensions? I think I can work out the diameter ok, but it is the hub width and tyre cross section I am struggling with... It seems there are no drawings of either as they were both produced by Good Year and they hold all the drawings (which to my knowledge have not surfaced) It's a long shot, but anyone know? that or I will just try it by eye... thanks in advance Peter 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Terrell Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 (edited) Hi Peter, The main tires are 27 inches in diameter (and this is also recorded in the P-51 maintenance manual). From my own work, matching photos, I have them depicted at 9.5-inches full-scale width. The diameter of the wheel is about 15 & 3/8th's inches. Hopefully these photos should help some as well: (BTW, the tail wheel tire is 12.5 X 4.5 inches. And fantastic work with the 3D modeling!) Edited April 7, 2018 by John Terrell 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave665 Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 (edited) Peter a quick Google search came up with this photo of the 27" SC wheel. Is this Lope's Hope? I also found the following data on tires for the North American-P51-D. Main 27" SC Diam. 27.5" Sect. 9.75" Load 3300 psi 39 Rim Dia/Width 14"/9.75" Tail 12.5X4.5 Diam 12.35" Sect 4.6" Load 1800 psi 75 Rim Dia/Width 4.5"/3.63" But I can't find anything to verify the above. Dave Edit Looks like the 27" SC rim diameter is 14" not 14.9" as was quoted in the source I found. The source did quote the 27" SC rim as 14"/9.75 for other aircraft. John's post above has a photo showing the rim dia measures 14". So that confirms it for me. Edited April 7, 2018 by dave665 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave665 Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 (edited) Looking at the original photo of "Lope's Hope 3rd" the tire looks to have a different tread pattern to the diamond pattern seen on other P-51 Mustangs. The tread pattern on Lope's hope looks to have a tighter smaller diamond shape. Looking for other period examples of this tread pattern I think I've found a few. Top left is Lope's Hope. Bottom right is the "standard" diamond pattern. Top right and bottom left show the "small" diamond pattern. To my eye Lope's Hope matches this "small" diamond pattern. There are more blocks to the tread on the "small" diamond compared to the "standard" diamond. I've added the red lines in attempt to show Lope's Hope matches this "small" diamond tread pattern. Looking closely at the "small" diamond pattern the diamond looks to be rotated 90 degrees to the "standard" diamond and has small nicks cut in the sides. These nicks give the diamond a cross like shape. So is this small diamond actually the "cross" tread pattern? Peter this hopefully helps you work out how to model the tire. Dave Edited April 8, 2018 by dave665 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 John, Dave, Those photo's and your research are incredibly useful and most welcome! Thank you so much for helping me out Hi folks .. a little update on the wheels & tyres... first I took the MLG drawing I was tipped to find in the Aircorps Library and copied the cross section to derive the hub, and then the tyre.. ..straight away there were a few problems.. 1. the tyre had a much taller profile than the pic I have - I thought maybe warbird tyres were lower profile but having checked multiple period shots for tyre/hub proportions I came to the same result - the tyre is not that tall.. 2. The hub in the drawing is two parts, but the inner shapes and hub rim did not look like the pictures - in this pic of Lope's Hope wheel you can see the inner hub is a very offset design, not two parts split down the middle.. ..and 3. you can see through the hub and there is a difinate sloped inner ring immediately behind the spokes (where the tyre valve hole is) note also all the small writing in raised letters on the wheel - more of that later.. ..I decided to scrap that version and start again, but just try building it by eye, or measurable proportion where available - they tyre is hard, but I had a few profile shots to base some assumptions on.. ..and the end result is a hub / tyre I am much happier with and one in proportion to photo's I have.. ..now about that lettering - I did that too - whether it will actually 3D print or not remains to be seen, but at least i made the effort.. ..so now onto the treads.. as above, Dave665 came up trumps with some analysis that says - yes they are the cross pattern, and that the crosses are a deritive iof the smaller diamond pattern with notches along their sides... ..so this is what I will try and do. I remember from my Spit, getting tread on a tyre in 3D is not simple so off to youtube to see if I can find an easier way.. TTFN Peter 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave665 Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 (edited) I hate to suggest this Peter but have you tried or taken a look at Blender as an alternative modelling tool? It would be possible to model the tire using it but it wouldn't be painless. I've been trying to get to grips with Blender for a while now myself and I needed a subject to learn with. So I've had a go at modelling the tire and cross tread pattern. It's helped me a lot as there is only so much you can get from YouTube videos without something to aim for. So this is what I've come up after a lot (and I mean a lot) of head scratching. Don't get too excited... it looks pretty but it's no where near perfect. I've no idea if it's 3D printable, I some how doubt it but your welcome to a copy of the .blend file. The tire is based on another reference I've found here on www.458bg.com that shows a version of the tire without the cross. It just has a plain square diamond pattern but it's also a clear image. For info the tread pattern is four blocks across with each alternate row offset by half a block and is repeated 36 times **. The edge half blocks have a grove in them to make the pattern on the side wall. Dave Edit :- (In case anyone fact checks this.) ** Having done more comparisons of this "small diamond/cross tread pattern" and a bit of maths I now believe the tread block is repeated 40 times round the circumference of the tyre. Edited April 14, 2018 by dave665 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 On 12/04/2018 at 9:41 PM, dave665 said: I hate to suggest this Peter but have you tried or taken a look at Blender as an alternative modelling tool? It would be possible to model the tire using it but it wouldn't be painless. I've been trying to get to grips with Blender for a while now myself and I needed a subject to learn with. So I've had a go at modelling the tire and cross tread pattern. It's helped me a lot as there is only so much you can get from YouTube videos without something to aim for. So this is what I've come up after a lot (and I mean a lot) of head scratching. Don't get too excited... it looks pretty but it's no where near perfect. I've no idea if it's 3D printable, I some how doubt it but your welcome to a copy of the .blend file. The tire is based on another reference I've found here on www.458bg.com that shows a version of the tire without the cross. It just has a plain square diamond pattern but it's also a clear image. For info the tread pattern is four blocks across with each alternate row offset by half a block and is repeated 36 times. The edge half blocks have a grove in them to make the pattern on the side wall. Dave Holy Moly Dave! Thats amazing! I will definately take you up on the file, and the reference is really useful as I have been struggling with how the sidewall turns into the tread. It makes my efforts look very toddler with crayons now! especially as I have spent a lot of time trying to get the tyre treads right - according to youtube videos there is a process in 3D modelling where you get a tread you design all flattened out to adopt the shape of a tyre - flow along a surface or something... well I can't get it to work - it keeps thinking my tyre is two surfaces split down the middle (like a left and right side..) I tried what I did last time which was creating one tread block and arraying it around the edge - these have not been trimmed to make the tread depth right, but you get the idea.. ..but on closer inspection they are not aligned - there should be even grooves & diamond patterns like Dave's... ..you can see the flat tread by the side showing how uniform it should be.. ..as if this wasn't getting sould destroying enough, I am also seeing lots of early P51's, Mk111's and A36's with these different wheel hubs - note the rim around each of the holes.. ..not sure if my bird had these or not as the pic is too grainy, but it seems most other high backs have them so I think I need to sort that too.. ..all of which led me to conclude what you and I both want... just get on and BUILD SOMETHING... i am tired of computers, so will talk to Dave & regroup.. with that in mind, and conscious I have nothing to show right now, I have scaled the seat drawings and am definately sitting down this weekend to build one ..this exact seat in fact... ..based on these and a few other drawings.. so hopefully back soon with something that actually took some modelling skills to make ..by the way, today is a proud day - KLP Publishing published my book see you soon Peter 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Britman Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 Dave, I hope you're going put some effort into this and not just throw it together like that Spitfire! Your skills and patience are outstanding, I am very impressed. Keith. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave665 Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 9 hours ago, airscale said: I tried what I did last time which was creating one tread block and arraying it around the edge - these have not been trimmed to make the tread depth right, but you get the idea.. ..but on closer inspection they are not aligned - there should be even grooves & diamond patterns like Dave's... ..you can see the flat tread by the side showing how uniform it should be.. Peter I did something similar in Blender. But my block pattern is slightly different to yours. I sloped the edge to the half diamond. In Blender I do something similar to what your doing in Rhino. I curved the block pattern to the tyre profile, repeated it and then curve the resulting tread round the circumference of the tyre. Sounds so easy when I say it like that. If only it was!!! May be adding the extra slope to the sides will help get a better result in Rhino. 10 hours ago, airscale said: ..not sure if my bird had these or not as the pic is too grainy, but it seems most other high backs have them so I think I need to sort that too.. I also noted that there were different wheel styles when searching for examples of the tyre. In this photo of P-51C-5-NT "Mazie R" on American Air Museum the wheel also has the rim round the holes, but not the smaller hole where the spring clips for the hub cap are located. Peter have you also noted the internal structure of the spokes. All these wheels look to be cast, so the moulds for them must have been quite complex. Could they injection mould aluminium back then? Dave 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Terrell Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 (edited) Yes, there were different versions of the 10-spoke P-51 wheel, with and without the raised rim around the spokes. Note, however, that the wheel you see in the photo posted by Peter is actually a P-63 wheel - those only have 8 spokes, so stay away from trying to copy that version (the other side of those wheels/brakes are also completely different). It became very common in civilian-operation, years after WWII, to put P-63 wheels on Mustangs (as the brakes are considered better), but were never used on Mustangs during WWII. Here are a couple more pictures I figured would help (the first one has the rimmed spokes): Edited April 14, 2018 by John Terrell 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave665 Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 19 hours ago, airscale said: I tried what I did last time which was creating one tread block and arraying it around the edge - these have not been trimmed to make the tread depth right, but you get the idea.. ..but on closer inspection they are not aligned - there should be even grooves & diamond patterns like Dave's... ..you can see the flat tread by the side showing how uniform it should be.. Peter your comments have got me doubting the accuracy of my diamond pattern. Plus John's post made me realise I'd missed the fact that the wheel you posted only had eight spokes. So I've gone back to the photos I found of the tread pattern and re-compared them with images of my 3D model. I also did a bit of maths to see if the 36 x 4 array of blocks made sense. Things didn't look quite right or add up. (Ooops!) Looking at my comparison photo above with a fresh pair of eyes. I noticed that in the tyre bottom right has ten blocks marked with red lines and they look to cover a quarter of the circumference. So there are 40 not 36 blocks round the circumference. Going back to my maths... things also looked better with a count of 40 blocks. The shape of the diamond block comes out almost square with a 40 x 4 array of blocks. So Peter if you used a 36 x 4 array earlier try flowing a 40 x 4 array around the tyre in Rhino and see if it helps the grooves and diamonds line up better. So back to the drawing board with Blender for me. Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 thanks so much guys - I am learning so much! I can also see from those two pictures John that the 'crosses' in the treads are actually not modified diamonds like I thought, but a new shape of its own. These are really good for basing a new design on. And Dave, please don't worry, I think half the fun is unravelling little mysteries like this and I am still amazed at how you just turned out that tyre & tread. Mine has 45 going around the perimiter so is cobblers basically... great to learn about the hub too so I have a lot to think about when I get back to designing stuff... so.. we have a part... an actual, totally real, not made up on a computer, bit of this model... this is the target for today, the seat back - this picture is actually Lopes Hope's seat being painted so lets see what needs to be featured...there is a big pipe based 'U' frame giving it structure (the holes are at the back and not seen so we don't need to worry about them..), and to this is rivetted a pressing for the seat back.. ..there are also two slots with little pressing covers near the top of the back.. ..the front with some more details is not from my aircraft, but the details are the same... here the holes at the front can be seen to be bigger and that pressing itself actually wraps the 'U' frame right up to the edge and is fixed with the rivets taht can be seen. Also there are two slots with strengthening plate borders to capture too.. ..after scaling the drawings I have I noted a few differences between them and the seat in Lope's Hope, so I went with what I could see - first thing to do was to also scale and produce a drawing from that photo to use as a template to make a 'buck' onto which I will try and make the seat back pressing.. ..I got a bit of perspex as it is hard and takes shaping with a dremel well.. ..soon I had made the seat back in reverse, and had bent some rod to make the 'U'.. ..I drew the 'U' onto a bit of litho so I could anneal the edges that need to take the curves, but leave the seat back rigid so it doesn't deform or easily get dents & dinks in it.. ..then the sheet was taped to the buck and the edges worked into the curves - this is actually the third one I made and by then had learned it is easier to make the holes in the back of the seat while it is still a flat, stiff sheet so you might just be able to see them at the top of the pressing... ..then after marking out, I used my hold'n'fold to hold the part right where I needed to cut it and just ran a blade along it's length so I can bend, flex & snap away the waste easily and neatly without bending the curves just made.. ..the pressing was then taped to the 'U' frame and the edges centralised to the 'U'pipe all the way around by trimming with a sharp blade & then taking it off and finishing by filing & sanding... ..I also need to clean up everywhere as there is dust from dremelling out that perspex buck... ..once the seatback had been cut to shape it was taped down onto perspex to have a go at adding the rivets with a pin in a pin vise.. ..the strengthening plates / doublers that go around the slots in the side of the pressing were made by first cutting out the inside by scoring a rounded rectange using a template and then breaking away the inside... ..then they are trimmed & shaped & the seat back finished off.. ..and the finished (and very first!) part... ..and with some of the 'this is how I got here' parts - I never look at these as failures (though it can be frustrating sometimes), I always look at them as little lessons in themselves that teach me how to make the part properly... ..so that is it - we actually have a part - now there are only 12,324 to go... TTFN Peter 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave665 Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 (edited) On 15/04/2018 at 01:20, airscale said: Dave, please don't worry, I think half the fun is unravelling little mysteries like this and I am still amazed at how you just turned out that tyre & tread. Mine has 45 going around the perimiter so is cobblers basically... Like you Peter I treat the mishaps as lessons on how to do get it right. I'll get the small diamond tyre pattern to match eventually. But I'm looking at the large diamond pattern now. Having more success as this is matching the reference images quite well. On 15/04/2018 at 01:20, airscale said: I can also see from those two pictures John that the 'crosses' in the treads are actually not modified diamonds like I thought, but a new shape of its own. The reference images I've found show that this 'crosses' pattern is different tyre all together. This tyre looks to have at least 40 blocks round it and the sidewall/shoulder pattern is very different. It's very similar to this Firestone SC 33 which has 40 blocks. But it looks to say 'UNION' on the side of the tyre in John's 1st photo. I believe the other small diamond pattern tyre came in two versions, a solid diamond and a cross diamond. In fact I'm finding more tyre patterns the more I search for Mustang photos. I've even found several photos of Mustangs sporting mis-matching tyres. I'd say either tyre pattern could be matched to those on "Lope's Hope 3rd". Especially as the photo is not the clearest and the tyres are caked in mud. Dave Edited April 17, 2018 by dave665 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted April 20, 2018 Author Share Posted April 20, 2018 Thanks Dave & good evening ladies I have left the PC for a bit to do some actual building so still acumulating reference on the wheels / tyres... so, onto the pilot's seat.. ..having made the back panel, the next part is the seat itself.. again this seems a bit of an enigma as some drawings and a lot of kits have a straight edge at the front - I have this pic which seems to marry with a few others that shows the front with a curved dip at the front, so I went with that.. ..to make what looks like a pressing I used the same process as for the seat back - a block of perspex acrylic shaped to form annealed metal over, so I started by marking out the outer dimensions and the inner point at which it curves inwards to form the 'bucket' ..then I used a cutting disc to work away the waste to get the main profile set out, including the dipped area at the front.. ..until this is further refined to get the ultimate profile I want... ..once I had the male form, I wanted to make the rod frame the pressing is fixed to so bent some brass rod until it was the same shape (which took a lot of fiddling...) and popped it in my clamp to solder where it joins - you can just see it in the clamp on the right.. ..once cleaned up, a final check that the buck and the frame fit together (allowing for the metal too..).. ..then a small square of litho is annealed an taped down - at this point just gentle pressure all the way round to sort of 'seat' it on the buck.. ..to get the proper form, I use a balsa block, and ultimately a tiny ball pein hammer to tap out any folds and combined with harder wood blocks start to force the softened metal to conform to the shape.. ..the final stage is to start taping it hard down around the edges and really making sure it is taking the form.. ..after removing the tape, I have the basic pressing - I should have been more careful as some perspex dust got under the tape and caused a few little divots.. ..I turned it over and used a sharpie to outline the shape of the frame onto the pressing and then cut it out by scoring the edges and scissors for the corners.... .. then it was CA'd into place, the edges rounded around the rod frame and cleaned up.. ..and when taped to the back it looks in proportion to the plan I have.. ..lots and lots of detail to add, but the basic shapes are there to start work on. I am hoping to find more reference for this kind of seat as inexplicably for one of the world's best known warbirds, I can find hardly anything that shows a seat like this one out of the airframe... TTFN Peter 17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted April 28, 2018 Author Share Posted April 28, 2018 evening folks :) ..a bit of progress on the P51.. I remade the seat back as I wasn't happy with the proportion of the rod frame so having done it 3 times already including test parts, one more wasn't too painful.. ..behind the seat are two natural metal struts which carry big springs I guess for damping or seat adjustment, so I taped some card to the seat back to get equal spacing and set about making the brackets that hold them to the seat back.. ..I made the springs by winding fuse wire around a brass rod - I CA'd one end of the wire to the rod so it was easy to spin the rod and get a neat looking facsimile.. ..these were then added before the lower brackets were fitted.. I will get the spacing of the spring 'rings' more even once I have finished building it.. ..I added some small tube fittings where the seat bottom meets the frame and as it is such a weak attachment I went belt & braces underneath with a big bit of plastic to give the set-up strength & rigidity.. ..there are two channel type brackets that brace the two seat parts sort of where the pilot's elbows go so after trying folding litho and failing, I settled on filing down some brass 'U' shape section to get a similar profile.. ..and added with some micro bolts... the main structure is complete now, it just needs all the levers and fittings added.. ..I now need to make the bracket you can see at the top of the seat structure where it mounts to the armour plate - I was going to do it in 3D, but I kinda want to keep building so will have a stab at it tomorrow.. ..in other news, Denzil from Aircorps Aviation has been in touch and to say I am thrilled with what he and Eric have sent me would be a huge understatement!! Yesterday I received all the artwork for all the placards & labels in the real Lope's Hope which I will be able to copy to make a bespoke set of decals for the cockpit and all the airframe internals - amazing.. :) those guys are so supportive, I am hoping one day when the real one retires from flying I can put the model with it wherever it is displayed.. ..in other news part 2 - don't try and catch a dremel diamond slitting disc spinning at 15,000RPM if you drop the flexi-drive... I did and have some nasty cuts on my left hand (thankfully) so may find things a bit difficult for a few days.... what a dummy... TTFN Peter 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Great work on the seat, in the pictures without any scale reference it could easily be 1/1. Hope the hand gets better soon. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pipthepilot Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Absolutely stunning, the seat looks incredible. I will be following along from here as I can't wait to see the rest of this build. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 thanks Gents & good evening my hand is healing so all should be well - at least I got some fabrication done so it can't be too bad best part of a day session at the bench for most of one part... started by sticking a scale printout of the plan view of the part - it's a complex structure with more going on the more you look at it.. ..then a coarse cutting disc to get the worst of the waste off.. ..a bit of a clean up and the profiling at the top.. ..once the height was filed I added the holes for the seat supports.. ..and then a diamond burr to do some more refined shaping - I drilled the mounting holes before I rounded the face..... note also how it is left attached to it's host bar stock so it can be more easily worked.. ..then finally it is removed and cleaned up.. ..and a check if it fits and is proportionally about right - it is not super accurate, but is the best I can do... it still needs two angled mounting lugs to be added to the top which I will probably braze solder, but that is tomorrows problem.. until next time.. TTFN Peter 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 Lovely stuff (though I do miss the Firefly...). I’d missed the fact that your Race No 80 book is out - bought it today, & it’s just as awesome as it was following it at the time. And thanks for the method tutorials at the back; great idea. There’s enough material in the book to keep me occupied for weeks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cngaero Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 Sorry I'm late to the party, but I suppose it is fashionable to be late, I do hope there's a seat left. I too have missed the Firefly build, but the work you've done so far on the Mustang is more than making up for it. The work on the seat is outstanding. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hairystick Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Splendid! Here we go again. What a great idea with your book as well. Great material for those treading the same path of modelling. I however feel a twinge of guilt that "somewhere a Tigercat / Firefly waits". 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 evening folks :) thanks for stopping by - I do feel guilty about both the Tigercat and the Firefly, but console myself they are not dead - just resting :) so a little more Mustang mayhem on this fine Bank Holiday... I started by adding the fixing lugs to the seat mounting at the top of the seat - these were thick plastic card shped after being stuck on with CA - quite tricky and about the best I can do with them... ..this fits onto the upper armour plate where the head armour is, so I scaled plans and stuck them onto some 0.6mm ali sheet.. ..I used a diamond cutting disc and diamond burrs to cut and shape the part.. seen here with the micro fixing bolts.. ..and assembled in company with the lower armour plate section.. ..back to the seat itself, there are assemblies each side that I assume make it go up/down and maybe adjust the rake of the seat. One of these is a cast handle so I shaped some 'T' section brass for the handle and rolled milliput balls for the ball on the end of it. If anyone knows where / how to get a selection of micro balls I would be very interested to hear as I can never make them perfectly spherical :) ..you can see the assembly in full here.. ..and another set on the other side made from tiny bits... ..you can see them both added here.. ..and all dry fitted together.. ..that pretty much covers the seat, there are a number of bolts & rivets on the seat rim of the real one that all those gubbins attatch to, but as - I need to make the cushion / dinghy pack / liferaft or whatever it is that covers all that and the backrest at some point, I didn't try and add them.. ..I also realised I really need the Photo-etch to carry on with the bulk of the cockpit construction as it has all the bulkheads & formers etc so need to focus on that. However, I do need to find an assembly to work on as well so I can mix & match PC work with actually making something :) TTFN Peter 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Excellent work so far! Håkan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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