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1/48 Hasegawa J2M3 progress


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Hi folks. 

I've had this one sitting on the shelf with Tamiya AS-12 on it for a while so I decided to finally get some colour onto it. It's amazing how many models are ini a state where paint can be applied and then a day later end up looking almost complete. 

It's my first real go at trying the AK Chipping Effects fluid besides on accessories. The colours used are lacquers by Mr Color which I absolutely love. Their coverage and applications characteristics are just great. They are a tad smelly though nothing a paint mask can't sort out. 

In order of application of colour 

Tamiya AS-12 
AK Chipping Effects 
Mr Color 122 RLM 82 Light Green 
Mr Color 126 Cockpit Color (Mitsubishi) 
Mr COlor 124 Dark Green (Mitsubishi) 

The cowl was masked and then got the same treatment as the main colour. Mr Color actually do a Cowl Color which is #125. 

The chipping was done by scrubbing and chipping away at the paint with a stump paint brush and a pottery tool. By rolling the pottery tool (kind of like a nail) on it's edge you can get some pretty good random chips over large, flat area. 

The gloss a Tamiya X-22 thinned with lacquer thinner. One thing I do after I've put it down is to hit it with neat Tamiya Lacquer thinner. It ends looking like glass and is super smooth, excellent for decal application. 

The underside grey goes on tomorrow. 

 

Thanks, 
Michael 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all.

 

I managed to get some paint onto the underside the weekend before the Easter break. Plans for this weekend is to get the national insignia painted onto it.

 

So far...

 

First colour - FS36118 Gunship Grey, Mr Color 305

 

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Second colour - BS4800/10B21 Hemp, Gunze H336

 

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Third colour - RLM02 Grey, Gunze H70

 

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Fourth colour - RLM82 Light Green - Gunze H422

 

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And final colour applied using a scrim mask, IJN Grey - Mr Color 35

 

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And everything in a pile.

 

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Cheers,

Michael

 

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  • 1 year later...

It's been more than 18 months since the schism I had with this kit.

 

What is once seen can't be unseen; in this case it was one fuselage Hinomaru being larger than the other. I put the model down and walked away.

 

A week later I stripped the incorrectly sized roundel thinking I could repaint the area. That was quickly abandoned as I realised that reinstating the silver primer and tasty chipping that I had applied was a job too far.

 

So it has been sitting looking at me forlornly on the SOD, until last weekend when my son (who is also Jack) asked me when I was going to finish it off. After all I did get it because it shares his name, right? An hour later I had the Tamiya silver primer down, hair spay applied and the Mr Color Mitsubishi green. A friend had also cut some paint masks for the Hinomaru and in fifteen minutes I'd applied the left fuselage roundel. Surprisingly, it that turned out okay.

 

The colour on a few panels have been modified and the visible chipping is some of the paint that came up when removing the masking. I can work with that.

 

Nothing like a clear mind and a clean workbench (and an enquiring son) to get a model back on track.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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56 minutes ago, pacificmustang said:

two years its taken you to build a plane named after your son!  Hang your head in shame Mick😉 I really like the chipping on the MK1 version. Looking forward to more progress

 

Bruce

It's okay Bruce. My customer is more than happy to wait as he has much more enjoyable things to do than to hang around and watch paint dry. Hey, at least it's not a 1/32 He-111....six years is it?

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So much happier with the progress of the Raiden this time around. Lots of greens, browns and smoke colours. It's a bit of work to get some interest into the Mitsubishi green but worth the effort for sure. Yellow leading edge followed by chipping.

 

Cheers,

Mick

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, billn53 said:

I’ve never seen that “scrim mask” technique before. What is the material you use, and where can one find it?

Hi Bill.

 

The material is the air filter that can be found in the back of some spray booths. It's layered that you can pull apart. Once you get the single layer piece, you can then pull the piece apart to open the weave as much as you need. 

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14 hours ago, Mikey-1980 said:

Fantastic work so far, really like the chipping effect too. Very effective and convincing too :)

 

Thanks Mikey, however the model was stripped after that round of painting due to some incorrectly sized roundels that had been painted.

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Looking good. I've used 3M blue masking tape, no tack removed, to produce chipping (damn stuff removes paint even when I'm extremely careful). I use very small pieces, maybe 1cm² and good for one shot only. Very time consuming

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I know that part was a while ago, but did you do anything special to get the chipping effects with the Mr Color lacquers? It always ends up rock hard and impermeable when I try it, to chip with lacquers using fluid/hairspray i need to lay down a very thin coat of tamiya acrylic of approximately the right shade as a "primer", which means I need much less of the lacquer paint on top to get to the correct color.  Otherwise no amount of water or scrubbing will cause the lacquer to chip.

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On 12/10/2019 at 11:48 PM, fubar57 said:

Looking good. I've used 3M blue masking tape, no tack removed, to produce chipping (damn stuff removes paint even when I'm extremely careful). I use very small pieces, maybe 1cm² and good for one shot only. Very time consuming

I know what you mean fubar. I used hairspray on the silver before applying the lacquer. If the paint goes down flay you'll probably have a better chance at chipping it as the water penetrates it easier than a smother surface where the water tension would be higher. When I sprayed the underside IJN grey I used blue take rolls between the upper colour and then used larger pieces of tape to cover the paint from any over spray. When I removed the tap it also brought some paint with it which gave a reasonable result. I think once the paint has a fractured edge it will lift a lot more easier if it's still in one 'piece'...if that makes sense. 

 

On 12/11/2019 at 2:04 AM, MeneMene said:

I know that part was a while ago, but did you do anything special to get the chipping effects with the Mr Color lacquers? It always ends up rock hard and impermeable when I try it, to chip with lacquers using fluid/hairspray i need to lay down a very thin coat of tamiya acrylic of approximately the right shade as a "primer", which means I need much less of the lacquer paint on top to get to the correct color.  Otherwise no amount of water or scrubbing will cause the lacquer to chip.

Hi MenMene. When I was removing the paint on the first version I used the edge of a pottery scribing tool that brought up the paint quite well. Tha was with some water to encourage it too. I think once the first bits of paint come off, neighbouring areas will lift easier. I had a REALLY short bristle brush that I would then used to roughen up the edges of the paint gave it a random look. I'm a lot happier with the second attempt as it looks a lot closer to images that I have of Raidens.

 

Another thing is to use a hardy silver as the bare metal colour. In this case it Tamiya AS-12 decanted and sprayed in a not thin coat.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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