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F-105D Thunderchief 58-1155 (D-10) 1/72 - last build update 11/07/18


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Admirable work so far! 

I had the same experience as you with the pen-type correction fluid (some rivets not being completely filled). Didn’t think of trying the brush-on type. I also didn’t make the effort of taping over my panel lines, opting instead for keeping a sharp cocktail stick at hand to clean up any errors. 

About the ventral fin... I felt the kit’s version was too thick and replaced mine with a thinner resin AM piece. 

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Thanks Bill. I'm really not made for this kind of stuff but it is going better than I expected ... so far! Fingers crossed I'll at least have the other fuselage half done by tonight :)

 

Martin

Edited by RidgeRunner
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Martin, you'll find that quite a few rivets will get lost when removing the late D features... Good work til now anyway !

Quick word on the pen type corrector fluid: yes, dries very quickly, however it's also very easy to sand any excess with 800 grade abrasive paper

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Hi Giorgio!

 

You are right :). I see on the wings there is a large area to remove... I'll face that another day. About the correction fluid I have tried sanding and, yes, it works very well with a fine stick.

 

Going back to the colours I have this shot of 57-5786, an earlier test machine. It is in very similar colours to '1155. Do you think it sheds any light on the yellow question? I love the central tank, by the way. I maybe build and paint one like that for '1155.

 

Thudbuild009

 

Martin

 

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23 hours ago, billn53 said:

About the ventral fin... I felt the kit’s version was too thick and replaced mine with a thinner resin AM piece. 

 

Hi Bill,

 

I've decided to replace the ventral fin with a new complete one from Plasticard, sans hook apparatus.  You are correct, the kit one is too wide and I reckon the join to a replacement rear section will look odd.

 

All,

 

Any tips on cutting a NACA inlet in 1/72? Are there any templates out there? Best method? @Giorgio N @Wez

 

@71chally

 

Thanks all in advance,

 

Martin 

Edited by RidgeRunner
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I'm sure I've seen a few attempts at making NACA intakes somewhere here, IIRC it's in Fritag's magnificent Hawk build, I'd suggest checking that thread.

Personally if the intake is large enough, I use a template cut from plastic to scribe the shape and then try to make the area deeper at the rear with a scalpel.

 

Colour: hard to tell, the aircraft in the picture may just have dayglo orange behind the black tip, looks similar enough to the colour of the rear fuselage band

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I've never done this but thinking about the mechanics of the thing...

 

1.  Make a template from thick plastic.

2.  Place the template over the required spot.

3.  Scribe the outline onto the kit.

4.  Drill small hole in the three corners.

5.  Drill a hole in the scribed area, towards the back.

6.  Gently file the hole out to the required profile.

7.  At the back edge scrape out the interior to provide the thin edge of the intake.

8.  Using the template cut a the intake shape, fit from the interior, test, fettle and adjust.

9.  Once satisfied fit the shape in the required place ensuring the shape from 8, doesn't plug the intake you've laboured so long to make.

 

Would this work?

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Thanks both. Those are pretty much my thoughts too. :). It is the curved nature of the two sides that I'd need to get correct. The rear is relatively easy. Then the challenge is to get the graduated depth.... I'll fiddle with some scrap.... ;)

 

Martin

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18 hours ago, RidgeRunner said:

Any tips on cutting a NACA inlet in 1/72? Are there any templates out there? Best method? @Giorgio N @Wez

 

I think this thread may be helpful, if these are the NACA inlets you are referring to 

 

 

Edited by hsr
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9 hours ago, hsr said:

I think this thread may be helpful, if these are the NACA inlets you are referring to 

 

 

Thanks for that. They are big inlets!  ;)

 

Martin

Edited by RidgeRunner
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On 10/03/2018 at 11:54 AM, Wez said:

Those rivets just have to go!  So unrealistic.

 

I've read through the linked threads (nice Thud btw Bill), but none of them mentions something which is a bit of a nagging worry bead in the dim recesses of my mind (which is most of them to be fair).  I could well be completely wrong but I recall reading that the F-105D had a shorter fin than the F-105F/G, originally at least.  I can't recall whether the F-105D's had the longer fin retrofitted, whether the Revell/Monogram kit of the D had the F/G fin and whether that applies to the Trumpeter kit.

 

I'm away from my references ATM.

 

So what I'm saying is, can anyone confirm whether the D had a shorter fin than the F/G?  What fin does the kit have?

 

Hi Wez! I had one of those middle of the night epiphanies! That fin is now worrying me. I need to check later as my photos of the kit make it look too tall! :(

 

Martin

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10 hours ago, RidgeRunner said:

 

Hi Wez! I had one of those middle of the night epiphanies! That fin is now worrying me. I need to check later as my photos of the kit make it look too tall! :(

 

Martin

Sorry about the worry bead, unfortunately I haven't had the chance to check whether my worry bead is warranted.

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Hi Wez! I checked against my Detail and Scale drawings and I'm happy to report that she's a perfect fit. :)

 

Martin

Edited by RidgeRunner
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Situation report - Aires cockpit is painted and built. I had much the same issues as Billn53 so I wont repeat those here. The only difference so far is that instead of thinning the side walls of the fuselage to accommodate the tub I thinned the sides of the tub instead. I found it to be easier. Otherwise the same. When I get in to more differences from Bill's build I'll start posting more images etc. I reckon that next time I pick up the box I'll be cutting that NACA vent, cutting out the new ventral fin, painting the jet pipe and surround, installing the nose wheel well, etc. It wont be too long before the fuselage goes together. :) 

 

THudbuild17

 

I still haven't finished the side walls at this point. The HUD etc will be finished once the fuselage is together.

 

Martin 

Edited by RidgeRunner
typo
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Maybe brave or maybe foolish. Let's see how it goes. I will need to build up some courage and then get out the razor saw and pin drill. That vent is quite small. I'm still pondering how to tackle it. I might see if I have a suitable vent on a trashed kit that I can graft in. ...... Thinking .........

 

Martin

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I've done very little to be honest. A combination of things has kept me away from the tools ;). I have, though, managed to beat the resin cockpit in to submission as well as the forward wheel well. Like @billn53 I struggled to get the cockpit in and used a fair amount of cursing to influence things. She seems to be in, though. I've made a mistake, though, by installing the two side walls of the cockpit in the wrong sides. I hope the purists wont hang me out over it! ;). Billn53 didn't mention any issues with the wheel well but I struggled. Below is the dry fit, with the coaming area cut out too. I have also given the jet pipe area some paint as well as the jet pipe itself, opting for a black base coat upon which I will layer dry brush and powder weather effects once dry.

 

IMG_3146

 

Sorry it isn't the most exciting post!

 

Oh... In case I get post over it ... I haven't yet got to painting the HUD area. :)

 

Martin

Edited by RidgeRunner
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Right, the jet pipe is in, positioned correctly as previously shown by Billn53.

 

Thudbuild19

 

Thudbuild20

 

and I have made an attempt at cutting the NACA inlet on the port side of the upper nose, per early D-models (and subsequently removed).

 

Thudbuild21

 

Thudbuild22

 

Thudbuild23

 

Thudbuild24

 

For this marked out the area with Tamiya tape (also for detail protection), drilled out the shape, cut and inserted a Plasticard triangle at an angle giving a deeper point at the rear, and washed with Kristal Klear to fill gaps. It needs some cleaning but it isn't too bad in reality :) 

 

In the last shot you can see her nearly together with my other WIP behind ;)

 

thudbuild18

 

 

Martin  

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Question: @Giorgio N @71chally @billn53 @Wez And others: could I get away with redrawing the lettering and numbers in Amarillo and setting them against a light grey background and then cropped appropriately? Would that look convincing as an aluminium alternative, given that my printer (nor others I imagine) would not print metallic? If so I will get drawing as and when I have the time. After drawing the masks for the stars and bars and flashes, of course ;)

 

Thanks as always for your guidance.

 

Martin

Edited by RidgeRunner
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Like @71chally, I've no experience of that.  Didn't one of the decal companies (Superscale springs to mind but I'm not certain), do sheets of a single coloured decal, maybe you could get a sheet of silver decal to print onto?

 

Good progress so far though Martin.

 

EDIT: It was Microscale that did the silver decal as do Xtradecal

Edited by Wez
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