rossm Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 I find if you use MicroSol/Set for your decals you have to rinse the model with water once they have dried otherwise you can get white patches when you varnish - I generally use Kleer for gloss and Tamiya Flat Base in their gloss varnish for satin or matt, applied by airbrush. I should say I haven't tried the Winsor and Newton products, will watch out for them next time I go shopping. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
224 Peter Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 24 minutes ago, rossm said: I find if you use MicroSol/Set for your decals you have to rinse the model with water once they have dried otherwise you can get white patches when you varnish - I generally use Kleer for gloss and Tamiya Flat Base in their gloss varnish for satin or matt, applied by airbrush. I should say I haven't tried the Winsor and Newton products, will watch out for them next time I go shopping. That is interesting. My Typhoon required liberal use of the two products to make the 40 year old transfers work. I shall be more careful in the future when using these "clever" products. Does anyone have any experience with the "Micro" gloss and matt varnish? I found a jar of each in a box, seemingly un used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laidlaw Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 (edited) @Speedbird 48 - for brush painting, I'd recommend (just as others have) Winsor & Newton Galeria Matte Varnish. You can get it from places like Blick Art Materials: https://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-and-newton-galeria-acrylic-varnishes/ If you need to thin it, use 70% Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol), which you should be able to get from your local pharmacy. If you intend airbrushing it, then use 91-99% Isopropyl Alcohol to thin as there's less chance of it beading up on a glassy surface. If you prefer something else for airbrushing, I'd recommend Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear, thinned with their X-20A. Edited February 26, 2018 by John Laidlaw Fat-fingered XF-86 into XF-6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rod mcq Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 51 minutes ago, John Laidlaw said: @Speedbird 48 - for brush painting, I'd recommend (just as others have) Winsor & Newton Galeria Matte Varnish. You can get it from places like Blick Art Materials: https://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-and-newton-galeria-acrylic-varnishes/ If you need to thin it, use 70% Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol), which you should be able to get from your local pharmacy. If you intend airbrushing it, then use 91-99% Isopropyl Alcohol to thin as there's less chance of it beading up on a glassy surface. If you prefer something else for airbrushing, I'd recommend Tamiya XF-6 Flat Clear, thinned with their X-20A. XF-6 is flat copper - I think you mean XF-86 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laidlaw Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 1 minute ago, rod mcq said: XF-6 is flat copper - I think you mean XF-86 You're absolutely correct - my typing is worse than my handwriting these days. Many thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Brown Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 I agree with Rossm about Micro set/Sol. You definitely need to wash the model after using any decal solutions. I just thin Galeria with their Flow Improver. It actually needs little thinning when using a .5mm needle in the Iwata. It's weird, it looks very thick in the jar though. Rick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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