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Red Arrows, Now and Then - Airfix Gnat and Hawk 1/72


CedB

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Turned out great after all said and done Ced. If you ever 'over thin', you can just give your MAC valve quarter or half turns and try again on some scrap paper, until you have it dialed in. If it's real thin, you may end up having to do multiple mist coats.

 

Hope your neck feels better, and that the hair grows back (mean ol' nurse).

 

 

 

 

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Yes, Gnats had Post Office Red, BS381C:538, Hawks had Signal Red (aka Red Arrows Red), BS381C:387. Info taken from the IPMS booklet, "Evolution of the Red Arrows".

 

The drying time of acrylics can be extended to make them more usable for brush painters by adding retarder.

 

John.

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2 hours ago, giemme said:

Apologies Ced, I know you feel miserable, but this was funny to read nonetheless ...

 

It was, wasn't it Giorgio, I know we shouldn't laugh, but.....:D

 

Sorry Ced, hope you don't have to see that 'nurse' again...:shutup:

 

Keith

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6 hours ago, johnd said:

Peugeot Cherry Red is touted as a match for a Red Arrows Gnat, Fiat Orange Red for the Red Arrows Red used on the Hawk. 

 

I tried to buy a Humbrol 19 rattle can for my Gnat but the man in the shop said that they'd had so many complaints about Humbrol aerosols they now refuse to sell them.

 

John.

6 hours ago, andyf117 said:

As someone who brush paints, I hate acrylics - they dry way too fast....

 

Luckily, I still have lots of Compucolor, Gloy and original Precision enamels - most of which are 30+ years old now, but still useable....

....and the latter includes M25 Red Arrows Red - the tin lid swatch of which looks brighter and slightly more orange than Fleet Air Arm Rescue Helicopter Red. otherwise known as Signal Red. As it dates from the mid-80's, it's obviously the Hawk colour....

....believe I've read somewhere that the Gnats were finished in BS381C 538 'Post Office Red'....

5 hours ago, johnd said:

Yes, Gnats had Post Office Red, BS381C:538, Hawks had Signal Red (aka Red Arrows Red), BS381C:387. Info taken from the IPMS booklet, "Evolution of the Red Arrows".

 

The drying time of acrylics can be extended to make them more usable for brush painters by adding retarder.

 

John.

Thanks Andy and John :) Too late for me but the information will be useful for anyone silly enough to read this as a serious build...

The Gnat starter kit comes with H15 and the Hawk says, obviously, H238 so you're right, they should be different :lalala:

 

6 hours ago, giemme said:

Can't beat Tamiya for red, IMHO - and I mean the regular one from the pot, not even the rattle can kind, which I'm sure is better.


That said, I'm happy with my Lifecolor paints .... :whistle:  :D 

 

Apologies Ced, I know you feel miserable, but this was funny to read nonetheless ...

 

Red Arrows red looks much better :thumbsup: 

 

Ciao

4 hours ago, keefr22 said:

 

It was, wasn't it Giorgio, I know we shouldn't laugh, but.....:D

 

Sorry Ced, hope you don't have to see that 'nurse' again...:shutup:

 

Keith

Thanks Giorgio and Keith - it was supposed to be a funny story... not at the time, obviously :D

 

6 hours ago, amblypygid said:

That looks like a significant improvement, Ced.

 

Your nurse sounds like my mother (also a nurse), not always sympathetic on the subject of non-life-threatening ailments.

Thanks Chris :) I've seen three different nurses now including one who's an ex-Midwife. 'Deep breathing will ease the pain'. Yeah, right...

 

6 hours ago, Cookenbacher said:

Turned out great after all said and done Ced. If you ever 'over thin', you can just give your MAC valve quarter or half turns and try again on some scrap paper, until you have it dialed in. If it's real thin, you may end up having to do multiple mist coats.

 

Hope your neck feels better, and that the hair grows back (mean ol' nurse).

Thanks Cookie :) Dammit, I knew I bought that MAC valve for something!

 

Of course one benefit of Klear coats and a gloss(ish) finish is that I can rip off the masking NOW!

 

39987680524_a8e65a20ab_z.jpg

 

 

40697839221_3e8aae4fd6_z.jpg

 

 

39987712834_2d684cd305_z.jpg

 

Really happy with the Ultra Mask - it only crept underneath where I thought it would (you saw the kinks, didn't you).

Really happy with the new tweezers too that feature in those photos. They're the ones I 'rescued' from my dressing changes. The nurse calls them 'forceps' but whatever, they grip really well, as you'd expect for something that's designed to... ah, better not clarify that. :surprised:

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14 hours ago, amblypygid said:

That looks like a significant improvement, Ced.

 

Your nurse sounds like my mother (also a nurse), not always sympathetic on the subject of non-life-threatening ailments.

 

Mine too. What you need is a French nurse ( or maid ) mine were very gentle.

 

John

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Thanks Bill - stickersy delayed, normal service will be resumed as soon as possible... :)

Thanks Rob :)

Thanks John :) I DO need a French Nurse, especially a gentle one... do you deliver?

Thanks Giorgio :) I guess you'll be using Oramask - let us know how you get on. The Ultra Mask is nice and thin and wraps itself around the curves - probably static? It does shift a bit when cut though so make sure you hold onto it.

 

No progress. I think my neck wound is finally closing up and my brain is testing out the new nerves... Stabbing pain? Yep, that works. How about really sore? Check. Dull ache? Affirm.

Not much sleep last night so I'm dozy today (Oi! Who said nothing unusual!)

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I suggest you take a nap in the afternoon Ced - a quick one should restore your normal conditions :)  If your neck pain allows, of course :shrug: 

 

I'll be using Oramask, yes - not for the canopies because I've already masked them. I intend to try it on the cockpit aperture, since the PE part for the sills and back of the tub isn't flat; I'm hoping it will conform properly on all the small lumps there.

 

Ciao

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Looking great Ced. I was going to mention the “painting yellow first” thing but I thought everyone knew that trick. I used it when I did the bright prince on my Vampire too. Works a treat, next time eh. Brill work btw. Hope the neck gets better soon.

 

Johnny.

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Thanks Giorgio - nap had! :D

Thanks Johnny - how dat work den? White then yellow then red, or is the white unnecessary? :)

 

A little bit done. One side of the Gnat:

 

25841413867_8ee73effa1_z.jpg

 

Transfers behaving beautifully :)

I also saw on some reference shots that the pitot was chrome with a black tip:

 

25841436997_ae5ddbd360_z.jpg

 

A chance to use my new 1mm chrome pen and AK Meng matt black. I've been looking for a matt black that will brush well and give a smooth finish, like Vallejo Air NATO black when I spray it. I like H33 brushed for rough finishes (walkways etc) and Tamiya XF-1 for prop blades and other places where you can put it on a bit thick(ish) but I've found it comes off if you try a second coat straight away, and sometimes you need it. This Meng seems to do the job :clap:

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Lovely decal job, Ced :clap:

 

As for red, personally I only go with white as an undercoat - well, off-white (tipically a mix of Tamiya Flat White and Sky Grey), then Flat White. My :2c:

 

I suppose if you go with yellow first (which anyway I spray on top of white :wink: ) you'd get a warmer tone. Never tried though, TBH

 

Ciao

Edited by giemme
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15 minutes ago, CedB said:

or is the white unnecessary?

Hello, Ced you will need white everytime before spraying any kind of yellow. Looks very good to me. Nice fix and a sharp pitot. The red looks the part for Red Arrows, I think. Cheers

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Not wanting to fly in the face of @bbudde I painted all my custard parts on light grey Tamiya with no troubles at all. To be fair I had to use light brown to pre shade if that teqnique blows yer hair back. But either way I have found that putting yellow before red gives a richer colour. Regardless you seem to have got a stunning red anyway so yay!!!

 

Jont. 

Ps. There were two 1/48 arras in the LMS for £8.99 each. Such temptation. Alas the stash wayeth too heavy. 

 

Pps. What is this Chrome pen you speak of? I have a beer and an itchy Amazon finger. :lol:

Edited by The Spadgent
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I did a test a few months.  I think it looks yellower when over the pink.

 

JkMxLgigmNdAfVqDPVNQRAeNaFmNRbygXEH7hunF

Edited by philp
others can't see pic
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10 hours ago, Cookenbacher said:

The Gnat is looking fantastic Ced.

 

+ 1

 

Yes, the little stabbing pains are the nerve endings joining up according to my physio, she's  French but not always very gentle.

 

John

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13 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

I painted all my custard parts on light grey Tamiya with no troubles at all. To be fair I had to use light brown to pre shade

Hello John, I just wanted to say that you will need a primer which has several parts of white in it (So light grey, light earth, pink or maybe even a creamy green will do), but without it you won't get yellow covering good . Probably it will give you a scumbled surface. Cheers

Edited by bbudde
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Thanks Giorgio and Benedikt :) I think you're right, I should have gone with the white primer, then perhaps I wouldn't have need so many red coats.

Thanks Cookie - glad you like it :)

Thanks Jont :) The chrome pen is one of these - great stuff. I bought the 3mm initially as that was the only one available but the new 1mm one is much handier IMHO. Hope you like yours.

Thanks Phil :) I can't see your image, sorry, just a 'no entry' sign here?

Thanks John :) Luckily the stabbing / itchy seems to have gone this morning after resting yesterday - I may be healed!

 

Had a nice restful day yesterday and we're out for Mothering Sunday later... might get something done this afternoon.

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I have the darndest time sharing my pics from Google +.

 

OK Ced, I tried inserting it again.  If you still can't see it I will just send a link.

 

Phil

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