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MFH Alfa Romeo 159M


Endeavor

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36 minutes ago, Codger said:

This entire thread has the look  of a fine documentary of the Public Broadcasting System. Concise text which describes a complex subject perfectly, beautiful graphics and a systematic sequence of events.

 

Highly informational and entertaining. :clap2:

I second that. Hugely informational and entertaining!

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3 hours ago, harveyb258 said:

I'm loving this build!!  Layer upon layer of delicious detail to feast on!!:Tasty:  Great job!

 

Cheers, H

Same! You hit the nail on the head Layer upon layer...! Love it.

 

On another note, Endeavor, Thanks you so much for posting large pictures. And I hope you don't mind, I'm down loading all of them in case the incredibly selfish Photo Bucket thing happens again.

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14 hours ago, parryj said:

Same! You hit the nail on the head Layer upon layer...! Love it.

 

On another note, Endeavor, Thanks you so much for posting large pictures. And I hope you don't mind, I'm down loading all of them in case the incredibly selfish Photo Bucket thing happens again.

 

14 hours ago, parryj said:

Same! You hit the nail on the head Layer upon layer...! Love it.

 

On another note, Endeavor, Thanks you so much for posting large pictures. And I hope you don't mind, I'm down loading all of them in case the incredibly selfish Photo Bucket thing happens again.

Please feel free to download all you want.  In the event that there is a third party hosting blackout, I could send you the thread as a pdf document.

 

The trick to the large images of the model is that I crop them before uploading.

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David, is there a safe way to adjust wheel alignment? There is noticeable positive camber both front and rear which does not seem so evident in your lead reference photo.

 

Or possibly it's better in person due to photo distortion...?

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5 hours ago, Codger said:

David, is there a safe way to adjust wheel alignment? There is noticeable positive camber both front and rear which does not seem so evident in your lead reference photo.

 

Or possibly it's better in person due to photo distortion...?

There is excessive toe-in both front and rear.  Trimming the tie rods will solve the problem at the front.  Bending the deDion tube at both ends will solve the problem at the rear.

 

I think the camber is OK.  After adjusting the toe-in I'll know for certain.

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43 minutes ago, Endeavor said:

There is excessive toe-in both front and rear.  Trimming the tie rods will solve the problem at the front.  Bending the deDion tube at both ends will solve the problem at the rear.

 

I think the camber is OK.  After adjusting the toe-in I'll know for certain.

my mistake - should have realized the toe was excessive from the over head shots. May need camber tweek when the toe is set.:doh:

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In 1951, when Alfa increased the power of the supercharged 1.5 liter engine from about 350 to about 425 horsepower, fuel consumption increased dramatically.  To compensate, the 159M’s three fuel tanks have a considerably larger capacity than its Tipo 158 predecessor.  During a race the 159M covered only about 1.7 kilometers per liter of methanol.  It was faster than the competition, but spent more time in the pits refueling.

 

One of the four parts of my kit’s main tank had significant imperfections. In the photo below, you can see that the part on the right has a long depression along its top edge where it joins the part on the left.  The depression was about 0.4mm deep.  You can see that I had just begun to file both parts. The tail section of the rear tank, seen in the background, also required a bit of work.

 

 

DSCN1952_copy.jpg

 

 

In addition to the problem shown above, the problematic part had a long and wide depression on its bottom, beginning about 2.5mm in from the edge.  In the photograph below, you see that I had started to file both pieces.

 

Thinning and leveling both parts also eliminated the two small depressions you see in the other half of the tank.

 

If I planned to prime and paint the tanks, two part putty could have been be used to fix the defects and to fill the seams.  Because I hope to polish the white metal and apply a translucent coating, putty was not an option.

 

The parts shown here are only pressed together for the photograph.  None are ready to be bonded together.

 

DSCN1956_2.jpg

 

 

Below you see the parts assembled and bonded with epoxy.

 

After considerable filing, all the joints are flush.  Two smaller tanks, front left and just above the main tank, are each built from two parts.  The fourth tank part, second row on the left, which is the rear section of the right side fuel tank, is a one piece casting.

 

All tank parts required considerable time to remove mold marks.  In addition, each required that all joining edges be perfected and each required some subtle bending to ensure a proper fit and tight joints.

 

DSCN1992_copy.jpg

 

 

It was challenging, time consuming, and rewarding.

 

Below is a look at the front and bottom of the main fuel tank.

 

 

DSCN2001_copy.jpg

 

 

There is a fuel tank mounted on each side of the cockpit.  The larger one, on the right side, is built from the two components in the second row of the photo above.  The forward part of the tank is in two parts; the rear section is a single casting.  In the model, they attach to the bulkhead that forms the dashboard.

 

The firewall and the bulkhead slide down into slots on the outside of the frame rails.  Both side tanks have pegs that fit into holes in the sides of the frame rails.

 

 

DSCN2010_copy.jpg

 

 

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Beautiful and meticulous solution so you can have the exact finish you envision.

Also mindblowing pattern making, casting and tooling on the part of MFH, despite some flaws. A small price to pay I think for the museum quality results they enable.

 

An explosion of MFH builds here just now, I think because many recognize that they can create excellent replicas. The Pocher wave seems to have subsided but Wayne keeps the flame alive with a highly complex and ambitious F-40. Scratchbuilders like Harvey, Dan and Roy carry the torch for the most labor-intensive segment.

 

In all, an excellent time for modelers of every interest here.

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Ahhh beautiful. Lovely subject. So many mfh builds going on at once, reminds me of a year or 2 ago when there was loads of pocher builds all at once. 

 

Looking forward to seeing more. 

 

Shaun  

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These old racing cars with their beautiful shapes seem to be created by passionate sculptors whereas many of the modern successors only by clever designers .

In my opinion it´s highly rewarding to go back to the roots. Modelling is a journey in time as well and we can see , what got lost in our days .

Great work , dear Endeavor !   Hannes

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In this photograph are all the parts for the radiator plus, in the upper right corner, the two parts of the casting that connects the cowl intake to the carburetor.

 

The long photo etched part is the “surround” for the egg-crate-like structure.  It has four small “pegs”  that help to position and secure the part to the cast outer shell.  You drill four 0.3mm holes in the leading edge of the shell to accept the pegs.  

 

The four mesh screen photo etched parts look superb.

 

DSCN2022_copy.jpg

 

 

In the photograph below you see that the two intake castings have been adjusted a bit, polished, drilled, and epoxied together.

 

The long photo etched part has been bent to conform to the radiator shell, and the notched bottom cross piece seen in the photograph above has been cemented with CA to form the bottom of the surround.

 
I started to build the egg-crate-like structure.  Applying very tiny drops of CA to the edges of the photo etched parts and assembling the structure was a bit of a challenge, especially at the start without a jig.

 

DSCN2032.jpg

 

 

More progress.  Notice that the PE surround has been placed loosely into the cast shell, and the right side has lifted a bit.

 

DSCN2052_2.jpg

 

 

The egg-crate-like structure is complete.

 

DSCN2067_2.jpg

 

 

The front photo etched mesh screen and the egg crate structure have been placed into the shell.  

 

The PE part at the bottom of the photograph will be fitted onto the vertical panel on the bottom of the shell.  

 

No adhesives have been applied yet, except to construct the egg crate structure.  The shell will have to be painted first.

 

DSCN2074_2.jpg

 

 

Another view from the front.

 

DSCN2080.jpg

 

 

The view from the rear.  

 

The second photo etched mesh screen is in place on the back side.  The small part at the bottom of the photograph, like the small part in front,  also will be fitted to the bottom vertical panel of the shell.  

 

Nothing has been cemented yet, pending paint.

 

DSCN2093_2.jpg

 

 

Second view from the back. 

 

DSCN2086_2.jpg

 

 

Edited by Endeavor
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  • 2 weeks later...

Here are a few work-in-process photographs.  A bit less clean and elegant.

 

In the photographs below, you see evidence of the work required to eliminate the seams where the top of the radiator meets the two sides.  No filler was required.  Just patience.

 

You also see how the white metal air intake part can be polished, plus some evidence of the finish work that was required to assemble and finish the four parts of the DeDion  tube.  The seams have disappeared after application of two-part putty and work with files and sandpaper.

 

The other polished piece in the center of the photograph is the brace that connects the two chassis tubular members at the front of the chassis. I began to file the part to remove what appeared to be a mold line along its length, a small job.  I discovered that the problem was not a mold line, but that one half of the part was higher than the other, so I filed the part to make the two halves the same thickness.  It took a while.  It looks great, but I'll have to paint it anyway.  

 

DSCN2107.jpg

 

 

Another view of one top joint of the radiator.

 

DSCN2109_2.jpg

 

 

Here is the painted radiator, with the lower photo etched parts attached.

 

DSCN2128_2.jpg

 

 

DSCN2133.jpg

 

 

If you compare this photograph with earlier photographs of the frame, you will see that the joints between the two frame rails parts have disappeared.  After cementing with epoxy, I filled the joints with two part automotive putty.  I also cleaned up some minor surface imperfections in the frame rails.

 

DSCN2149_2.jpg

 

 

Painted frame and strange lighting.

 

DSCN2163_copy.jpg

 

 

Other side of painted frame without strange lighting.

 

The holes in the frame rail sides are for the pegs of the tubular frame structure and the side fuel tanks.  The slots are for the firewall and second bulkhead.

 

DSCN2170_2.jpg

 

 

I had a setback.  Several joints cemented with CA failed.  Perhaps the CA was too old or perhaps I did not apply a sufficient quantity.  I have disassembled the model and reassembled it using two part epoxy.  The epoxy should be a bit stronger and less brittle, important assets when attaching very small parts that will be put under some stress.

 

The next stage of the build includes permanently attaching the firewall and dashboard bulkhead.  The parts are shown below, including the adhesive aluminum sheet and one of the two templates.

 

I have been unable to properly apply the supplied adhesive aluminum film to either part.  It's very thin and fragile and I have been unable to apply it without wrinkles.  I am awaiting a new sheet of aluminum film from MFH.  I have to discover a better application method.

 

I polished the firewall, thinking that might be an alternative, but the part is pitted and would lack the engine turned surface.

 

The next installment will be delayed until I find a solution.

 

DSCN2144_3.jpg

 

 

Edited by Endeavor
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I understand the risk of working on a hard to obtain part such as that foil but here is a somewhat involved possible help for you.

 

In the picture framing shop we used a chemical by D & K called Un-Stik adhesive releasing solvent. It does what it says without harming the material. We used it to clean the surface of photographs and glass before framing and for general adhesive removal. It is superior to Goo-Gone in that it dries near instantly and leaves no oily residue. A glossy photo shows no evidence of it.

 

My thought is to practice and soak a bit of the original foil and when the backing separates, use a spray adhesive on the firewall metal and then adhere the foil to that. At least you won't be fighting the aggresive MFH tack to separate the foil from the backing. If successful, then you can do the same to your replacement sheet from MFH.

 

Hope this helps.

C

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4 minutes ago, Codger said:

I understand the risk of working on a hard to obtain part such as that foil but here is a somewhat involved possible help for you.

 

In the picture framing shop we used a chemical by D & K called Un-Stik adhesive releasing solvent. It does what it says without harming the material. We used it to clean the surface of photographs and glass before framing and for general adhesive removal. It is superior to Goo-Gone in that it dries near instantly and leaves no oily residue. A glossy photo shows no evidence of it.

 

My thought is to practice and soak a bit of the original foil and when the backing separates, use a spray adhesive on the firewall metal and then adhere the foil to that. At least you won't be fighting the aggresive MFH tack to separate the foil from the backing. If successful, then you can do the same to your replacement sheet from MFH.

 

Hope this helps.

C

That is an excellent suggestion.  I will try it.

 

The problem is not removing foil from the backing, it is placing it on the part. The moment it touches, it adheres and cannot be lifted without tearing.  I tried applying film to the part first, with the idea of trimming it after it was mounted on the part, but I still had wrinkles.

 

The material is very fragile. 

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31 minutes ago, Endeavor said:

That is an excellent suggestion.  I will try it.

 

The problem is not removing foil from the backing, it is placing it on the part. The moment it touches, it adheres and cannot be lifted without tearing.  I tried applying film to the part first, with the idea of trimming it after it was mounted on the part, but I still had wrinkles.

 

The material is very fragile. 

Understood. Aggressive tack makes it a 'one-shot' deal with ultra-thin foils.  Again if possible to test a bit first, I have had good results by coating the adhesive applied to the f'wall (I like 3M 77 spray or Elmers School Glue - or double-sided tape like Scotch ATG also) with a small amount of soapy water mix and 'floating' the foil into place then squeegee -ing it down. The adhesive will then hold.

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  • 2 weeks later...
 
Below is a photograph of one of my failed attempts to install the adhesive aluminum foil.  I cut the material following the templates, peeled the foil from its backing, and applied the foil to the parts.  I made several unsuccessful attempts.  The foil is very thin, very delicate, and the adhesive is very sticky.  I inevitable had wrinkles .  I could usually remove or almost remove the wrinkles, but rubbing out the wrinkles damaged the foil or the swirls printed on the foil.  
 
It was difficult to photograph the problems, but if you look carefully at the photograph, you can see wrinkles and damage to the printed pattern.
 
DSCN2218.jpg
 
 
After several more failed attempts, I used a very different method to satisfactorily apply the foil. 
 
I did not use the templates.
 
I cut a square of the adhesive aluminum sheet- larger than the part- and taped the sheet, foil side down, to a styrene sheet on the bench.  I then removed the paper backing, leaving only the foil, adhesive side up, taped to the bench.  I very carefully applied a bit more tension to the foil- both vertically and horizontally- with additional tape to make the foil surface as smooth and perfect as possible .
 
I then pressed the parts down onto the foil and cut around the parts with a hobby knife.  Finally, I lifted the parts up, carefully pressed down all of the edges with Q-Tips, and cut the holes in the parts with a pin vise and a new hobby knife blade. 
 
You see the result in the photograph below.
 
DSCN2226.jpg
 
 
Edited by Endeavor
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