Jens Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 I have read numerous build threads here and elsewhere on the Revell Tornado kits, but none of them seem to show how perfect (or at least reasonable) inner intake seams were achieved, nor do they explain how. Having started my F.3 I came to the conclusion that intake covers would best be fitted to it, but with another three GR.1/4s and an IDS in the stash I would like to know if - and how - it is possible to get rid of those nasty seams. So, did any of you guys ever succeed in eliminating the intake seams? TIA, Jens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever219 Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 I have one F. 3 and two mud-movers to deal with. So far I've thinned down the forward end of the outer walls of the upper and lower intake tunnels halves so that they are as flush as possible with the inner face of the intake section outer wall. The bottom joint on the intakes is poor and needs putyying and sanding; this can be used to reduce the step between the bottom of the intake a d tunnel, but be careful of the guide vane in the bottom of the port tunnel. The filling is best done with one of the new generation of putties/fillers that require minimal filling. The intake sections can be assembled to the essentially-complete entre-and rear-fuselage sections before attaching the cockpit and front fuselage sides to give better access for filling and sanding but this will require removal of the locating ribs on the bottom panel as far back as the nose wheel bay. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Perren Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 I've got an F3 on the go and there are some real issues in this area. I was planning an in flight build but the seams down those narrow intakes changed my mind. Very little working room. Of course this being my first revell tornado I'm following the instructions. Steve's option above may help somewhat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 It's been a couple of years since I built mine but pretty sure I used perfect putty smoothed with a damp cotton bud. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guillaume320 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 I didn’t really bother trying to remove the seams in mine. Not much can be seen anyway (except with a flashlight) and there are those small teardrop shaped parts being placed on the joint line between the upper and lower part which camouflages the joint mostly... just my 2 cents... G 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 Checked my last build and I didn't do anything either. The join is where the demarcation line for the camo colour to the light grey intake colour which helps to hide it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 Thanks for the replies. I briefly tried the Perfect Putty approach, but once again I was reminded why I never use that stuff (it has never worked for me). I have decided to try stever219's approach to the outer walls and then have a look inside to see if guillaume320 and Muzz are right. Jens 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guillaume320 Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 7 hours ago, Jens said: I briefly tried the Perfect Putty approach, but once again I was reminded why I never use that stuff (it has never worked for me). I never tried Perfect Putty but was considering giving it a go... Would you mind to elaborate the issues you’ve encountered? Apologies for going off topic... G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 I am having problems getting it to stick to the surface of the subject that needs putty, both before and after drying. I have not had any succes in sanding it back to a nice smooth surface. For me Tamiya white putty works so much better. Jens 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Jens, I happened to graft the Revell intakes onto an Italeri IDS. I think that having had the Paragon flaps and fin correction for my Italeri kit very well much deserved to endow some suckers to that kit as well, without having to resort to intake covers for it. There's no jet aircraft in which I'd like intake covers to go with. In order to get rid of the seams inside the Revell trunks, I bought the Flory Models 10Pack of sanders. There's a plethora of different shapes of sponges, polishers and sanding sticks to help you through the process with the nasty seams. 10 Pack of Flory Models sanding sticks Pricey, yeh, but then you've still got the option to get just those sticks you need separately. Cheers, Unc2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 The intake tunnel shape is fiction anyway, they should be flush a lot deeper.The suction relief doors open into the intake, which is impossible on the this kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Mind elaborating further on this, Shaun? 7 minutes ago, Shaun said: The suction relief doors open into the intake, which is impossible on the this kit. That's right; no way of connecting the exterior doors with the inner trunks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 11 minutes ago, Uncle Uncool said: Mind elaborating further on this, Shaun? That's right; no way of connecting the exterior doors with the inner trunks. The gap is so large, I opened the doors into the space!.They now look correct for a running aircraft from the outside, but don't look into the tunnel..lol The kits ramp postions in not common for a parked jet aswell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Strewth! Meaning this gap here on the Revell trunks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 If you insert the kit part into the fuselarge, the intake tapers before the intake door area.On the real aircraft it must tapper in over the main undercarriage bays. The dimples you insert in the intakes are on these doors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 So, in order to make near-correct intakes one would need to remove the foremost two thirds of the intakes and the completely rebuild them around the inner surfaces of the fuselage? Now that would be interesting! Jens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 20 hours ago, Shaun said: If you insert the kit part into the fuselarge, the intake tapers before the intake door area.On the real aircraft it must tapper in over the main undercarriage bays. The dimples you insert in the intakes are on these doors Oh, now I get it, Shaun. Thanks. It's only that I just used the Revell intake trunk parts on an Italeri Tornado kit. I take it that both the Revell and Italeri fuselages ought not to differ that much in shape, but I was completely unaware of this fact. 1 hour ago, Jens said: So, in order to make near-correct intakes one would need to remove the foremost two thirds of the intakes and the completely rebuild them around the inner surfaces of the fuselage? Now that would be interesting! Jens, I'm only familiar with the Revell Tonka kit by having just watched pictures on WIPs, but according to them, it seems to me that correcting those intakes might be doable - if only I had known about this a year or so ago. Here's a piccy of the Revell kit - I think by Melchet's WIP - and there's at least two ways of making the correction I could think about. That's if I knew how the intake trunks go inside the real thing, of course. And while at it, look what I just found doing a web search for some intake trunk diagrams... Cheers, Unc2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mprimdj Posted September 22, 2019 Share Posted September 22, 2019 greetings,the suction relief doors only open in flight mode? not with the aircraft parked? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayBee Posted September 22, 2019 Share Posted September 22, 2019 2 hours ago, mprimdj said: greetings,the suction relief doors only open in flight mode? not with the aircraft parked? thanks Yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mprimdj Posted September 22, 2019 Share Posted September 22, 2019 1 hour ago, JayBee said: Yes. thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mstorin Posted September 22, 2019 Share Posted September 22, 2019 Just as an FYI. Phase Hanger does make a seamless intake set for the Revell Tornado kits... https://phasehangarresin.com/collections/48001-1-48/products/48046-bae-tornado-ids-gr-1-4-adv-seamless-intakes-revell 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 On 9/22/2019 at 6:55 PM, mstorin said: Just as an FYI. Phase Hanger does make a seamless intake set for the Revell Tornado kits... https://phasehangarresin.com/collections/48001-1-48/products/48046-bae-tornado-ids-gr-1-4-adv-seamless-intakes-revell Shoot! How long since they were released, Mark? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guillaume320 Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 On 9/22/2019 at 7:18 PM, mprimdj said: greetings,the suction relief doors only open in flight mode? not with the aircraft parked? thanks On 9/22/2019 at 9:51 PM, JayBee said: Yes. No. They would be open on the ground with engines running as well. And they are only open in flight in certain flight regimes, mostly low speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mprimdj Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 2 hours ago, guillaume320 said: No. They would be open on the ground with engines running as well. And they are only open in flight in certain flight regimes, mostly low speed. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayBee Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 14 hours ago, guillaume320 said: No. They would be open on the ground with engines running as well. And they are only open in flight in certain flight regimes, mostly low speed. For me "flight mode" means engines are running. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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