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On 15/02/2018 at 23:18, Shelliecool said:

 

Im quite pleased with my nights work, even though most of it won't be visible when the build is complete. 

Think you will be pleasantly surprised. The glazing and cockpit area is massive and a lot can be seen. I built the mark 1 at the end of last year and it surprised me. 

 

It's the fuselage internals that you can't see. 

 

Great work so far by the way 

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Quick update on last night, I spent time filling the edges around the glass and nose of the Horsa with water based filler, then masked it up (this took a very long time.....but will be worth it.).

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I then continued work on the Stirling, adding interior details and fixing the cockpit in place.

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As both builds are reaching a point where the fuselage interior needs putting together, I decided to set up the airbrush and paint the Horsa interior as close to a shade of plywood as I could, and the underside of the Stirling floor black. This time I got a cotton bud ready to remove any dried paint from the needle and set to work.  I opted for Revell's ochre for my attempt at ply, it mixed well and sprayed nice and evenly.

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With the Horsa fuselage painted I cleaned my airbrush and mixed up some Revell flat black (in this instance I opted for Tar back). Again this sprayed evenly, and nice and smooth.

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I've left both to dry and will continue with the builds later.

 

 

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On 17/02/2018 at 4:04 PM, Aeronut said:

Go easy on the interior green in the Horsa main fuselage. It only covered the floor and fuselage side up to seat rail level, the rest was unpainted apart from the odd spot of yellow indicating where to cut escape exits. Another point is to ignore the instructions about the two entrance doors, they didn't hinge down (they slid in, up and over) and they didn't have steps.

The Horsa can be made (with a bit of work) in to a respectable Mk 1 but don't even contemplate a Mk 2 unless prepared to scratch build a whole new nose.

I can supply details of the previously mentioned arrestor parachute installation if needed.

To add a bit to what Aeronut wrote - Interior of the cockpit was green all over but as noted the fuselage was bare plywood except for the floor and up to two feet up the sides. This was Mod.22A and was a production line modification from April 1942. The reason they only painted the floor and part of the sides was for wear and tear. As gliders were deemed "disposable" there was no reason to waste paint plus the paint itself adds quite a bit of weight to the aircraft.

 

The yellow ditching panels didn't appear until Jul. 1945 (Mod 387) so not applicable to a D-Day Mk.I.

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The Revell Teerschwarz/ tar black (Ral 9021) is a very nice colour for that and the best Revell one for british underside camo imho. It has a nice little satin reddish  reflection in the sunlight, which I like very much.  Maybe I would mix it with several shades of a usual  Revell dull black ( obviously Graphitschwarz/Garphite black (Ral 9011) to get the right variation and shades on the underside . Tar black is a standard german colour for reflecting radar signals on Bw vehicles. Cheers

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  Very nice work there Shelliecool!  I built the Horsa last year and haven't finished it to date.  The only advise I would give you is to cram as much weight into the nose and even then you will not have enough as it will be a tailsitter!  See my picture below.

 

  34643657342_440e8264b0_b.jpg

 

That is after cramming as much weight under the cockpit floor, control column, in the seats (I removed alot of plastic there) as I could, and she is still unstable and will tailsit happily.  In the end I just pretty much filled the entire cockpit with liquid gravity and painted it black.  I don't think much will be seen in there once finished as I have the original 1970's-ish moulding.

 

I was building this for a chap who flew these into Pegasus Bridge in 1944 (his name completely escapes me right now), unfortunately I dropped it a day before I was to present it to him so didn't have the time to fix it.  However when I turned up on the day, I found out the chap had passed away two weeks before the meet.  I was really gutted, but his son really appreciated the efforts however.  I will finish it when it warms up a bit.

 

Dont forget to cut down the fuselage if you are doing a Mk.1.

 

Looking forward to watching these progress :)

 

Kind Regards,

 

Dazz

Edited by Dazzio
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Having painted the seating for the Horsa fuselage last night, my aim this evening was to fix them and the floor into the fuselage halves. Sounds simple really, but it would appear not. Firstly I glued the benches to the floor and let them fix. Then attempted to place the floor (with benches) in the fuselage, and place the other half on top. This went badly, benches pushed over and floor, not in the right place. After two attempts, and lots of anguish I have put it down to a bad modeling day and will resume tomorrow...... Grrrrrrrrrrrr.

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Huge sigh of relief time for me, because after 2 more unsuccessful attempts tonight, and lots of swear words, I finally managed to fit the fuselage of the Horsa together with floor and seats in tact (mostly thanks to my other half suggesting I wait a minute and try again.) 

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Pretty she may not be, but it is together, as is the tail.

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I have also been working on the interior of the Stirling, securing the floor in the rear of the aircraft, attaching the fire extinguisher, pouches and building the pe table. 

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Tomorrow I can attempt to join the fuselage halves, as she will be in flight with wheels up I won't be building the rear wheel section. 

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Good progress with both builds tonight. I have fixed all 3 sections of the Horsa together (some filling required here), built the tail plane, and wing sections.

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Leaving this to one side I then fixed the fuselage halves of the Stirling together, securing with Tamiya tape.

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Finally I have build the parts of the Stirlings tail plane ready for major assembly tomorrow. 

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Nice to see them together Shellie and the seams look OK from here. Good stuff.

May I suggest some cheaper tape for holding bits together? Tamiya masking tape is a bit expensive (well OK, not that expensive) and cheap masking tape does just as well. I've got some of the cheap DIY rolls I use for holding parts together and also use it for 'fill in' masking, keeping the nice tape for just the edges.

 

Of course the others will expect me to suggest you invest in some Berna clamps. Most modelling shops stock them and I love 'em. 'Clamp' is probably the wrong word for them - they let you adjust pressure from 'just hold' to 'grip'. Position them on the model and squeeze the jaws, just as you would with your fingers, and stop when you've got sufficient grip. Release the pressure by pushing the 'open end' apart. They do twist off if you apply too much pressure or if don't have the 'feet' in the right place, but for holing things together without squashing they're great.

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Tonight I have been painstakingly masking the canopy, and nose sections of the Stirling before securing them into place. With the majority of clear parts in place I have also fixed the rear undercarriage in, wheels up as she is in flight. 

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Then I began my least favourite task......sanding! This time the Horsa fuselage. I began sanding the seams using ultra fine wet and dry sandpaper, it has worked ok, but still needs a little more work.

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Any sanding tips would be greatly appreciated, as like I said it is my least favourite job. 

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On ‎15‎/‎02‎/‎2018 at 7:08 PM, Shelliecool said:

Although I was lucky enough to get these as a valentines gift.......

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Needless to say I shall be giving them a try asap!

THAT's a great Valentine's gift !

Hi Michelle,

Can I join the band ? You did great once again ! Congrats !

Sincerely.

CC

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9 minutes ago, Shelliecool said:

Tonight I have been painstakingly masking the canopy, and nose sections of the Stirling before securing them into place. With the majority of clear parts in place I have also fixed the rear undercarriage in, wheels up as she is in flight. 

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Then I began my least favourite task......sanding! This time the Horsa fuselage. I began sanding the seams using ultra fine wet and dry sandpaper, it has worked ok, but still needs a little more work.

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Any sanding tips would be greatly appreciated, as like I said it is my least favourite job. 

For that round surfaces, I used "Flex I Files" They sell a kit with files and a tool for round surfaces.

It's a U shaped tool with différents grains easy and reasonable price.

Once tried, you will never let it down.

Sincerely.

CC

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6 minutes ago, corsaircorp said:

THAT's a great Valentine's gift !

Hi Michelle,

Can I join the band ? You did great once again ! Congrats !

Sincerely.

CC

Thanks for the tip about files👍, I will have a look online. Happy to have you on board, I'm hoping this pair will look good in the end.

Thanks again,

Michelle. 

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Great masking Shellie and the Stirling canopy looks like a good fit.

Sanding is my least favourite job too and I use a mixture of tools...

The Flex-i-files are good for maintaining curves - there's a rave review on YouTube from International Scale Modeller here. Don't forget to squeeze the frame to release the tension and maintain the curve on the model. Quite hard to search for as it's also a brand name, you can get various sets here.

While you're there you might also want to get a finger belt sander for 'spot work' on harder to reach areas, like removing ejector marks inside fuselages.

 

I also have some Flory sanders and they're great for more general work. They also 'wipe clean' so they'll last longer than wet and dry or standard sanding sticks. I bought their starter pack for £10 here. It's worth watching the video on that page too for some tips on how to sand seams - Mr Flory is a modeller too!

Finally (I love spending other people's money!) it would be remiss of me not to mention the six-inch half-round second-cut ('sihrsc') file you may have seen mentioned on other threads. Perdu first suggested this and I thought it was a bit mad counter-intuitive but you can pick one up at any good tool shop. They look really harsh but, if you don't press and just 'stroke it' gently over things like leading edges it'll whip the spare plastic off in no time and you'll hear when the roughness has gone. Get a 'file card' too to clean it - all cheap enough.

 

Last tip - as shown in the video don't be afraid to start with course grits (or sihrsc) to remove the excess plastic and then work down to a polisher to remove the scratches - it's much faster and less painful than rubbing away with fine sandpaper or wet and dry.

 

Hope this helps and, as always, practice on something first! As they say, YMMV!

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A lot of sanding later.........and I have a seam on the Horsa that I am fairly happy with. I gave the sanded areas a buff to remove some of the abrasive marks, and put the sanding tools away😁. I then added the struts to the tail plane and carefully attached the massive wings, I then put her to one side to let the glue set.

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As for the Stirling, I spent time tonight building the tailplane. These pieces were too large for the slots in the fuselage, so I carefully sanded the tabs down and secured them in place. With the tail on the Stirling looks ginormous.

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To give an idea of just how large both aircraft are I have photographed them next to a 1:72 Spit.

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They are pretty spectacular aircraft (I think anyway), just hope I can do them justice. That's all for tonight folks😴.

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Looking good. Both. Good job on that. The Horsa isn't a favourite of mine at all, but an old Italeri(e) one, which reminds me of several things here and there. The Stirling always reminds me of this, although I never built one of this:  

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So, good to see, that a "more or less" state of art was produced by Italeri. The interior is well done by you, but the most uncomfortable things are the big panel lines on the surface. How will you fix them? Will you leave them as they are or will you use something else? Maybe a massive undercoat with a primer?

Cheers Benedikt

Edited by bbudde
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