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I have a soft spot for the ejection seats so it is not surprising that I wanted to see what the tool makers have managed to do from the CAD’s.

Cut the parts from the sprue, bit of cleaning and some liquid glue. I have left the headrest off to make the painting easier just as the harness. I don’t want the hustle with all the masking, it is far easier to do them separately and fit to the seat before weathering.

 

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The only extra work I did on the seat is the headrest sides with the long bulges. Sanded flat the side walls. I was not happy with the missing bulges but had to accept the constraints of injection mouldings of this part. Thin stretched sprue was made semi-circular with 10 scalpel blade and glued in place with liquid plastic cement.  

 

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The one piece guiding rail structure was also left separately for painting. Here I did some detailing with drilling few holes and adding rivets on the back/top of the rail.

 

 

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For the photos a bit of Blu-Tack was used to “assemble” the seat.

Now it will join the box “To the paint shop”, hopefully at the weekend will have time for some colour (even if it is only shades of black in case of the seat).

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Concerning the question of the panel line on fuselage Frame 25. My solution was to use stretched sprue to fill the line. All in all there is about two and a half centimeters of panel line which needs attention. I use stretched sprue for the simple reason it bonds perfectly with the plastic of the kit, since it is stretched from the same plastic. Liquid plastic cement is used to position and fix the sprue in the panel line. The liquid cement melts both plastics and welds them together permanently. Since the same material is used after drying it provides a perfect surface for engraving or simply for sanding and polishing, there is no difference in material hardness. The only drawback with the liquid glue is the time factor, but I can live with that. Left the fuselage for a day or two to dry before scraping off most of the excess plastic with № 10 scalpel blade to be followed by wet and dry sanding and polishing.

In all (without glue drying time) it did not take more than half an hour.

The version I am building did not have the reinforcement plates next to frame 25 so I sanded them off. Engraved the missing panel lines and that was it.  

 

The original shape

 

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The way after my work

 

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Cut from sprues some engine parts. Prefer to paint them separately. Little cleaning and off they went into the “Paint shop” box.

Here I have to mention a mistake of the instruction sheet. In step 10 on 8th page a wrong sequence is shown. One has to glue part D 2 (afterburner flame holder rings) inside part D5, which is the afterburner section itself. Inside the afterburner section you have a ledge where the rings go! Do not glue flame holder rings (D 2) onto the compressor stage/central body Part D4 or you will not be able to put it in Part D5 from behind (as indicated wrongly in instruction)!

 

 

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I will not do much work on the engine compressor face since it is so deep inside the intake and not much will be visible of it on the finished kit. The actual first stage compressor fans are almost completely obstructed from view by the guiders / supports.

 

 

44QKnVE.jpg 

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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The 'Like' button is just not emphatic enough, I need a 'Super-Like' button at the very least. The promise of this kit was quite something even at the CAD stage but to see the plastic I think this could easily be THE aircraft kit of the year.

 

I have been taking a huge interest in this thread from the start and have taken steps to make sure that I have this kit in stock on my website as soon as it arrives in the UK (pre-orders are selling well already). I will be having a go at one of these even though it's not really in my scale or my normal genre, it just screams build me!

 

Thanks for all your posts on this one Gabor, keep it coming.

 

Duncan B 

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The Hibinji wing tip electronic warfare pod is now a standard fit of the Su-35S fighter bombers. Different versions of the pod are used on today’s Suhoj family fighters and bombers. They differ in container details / intakes / strakes and nose cones. Last years MAKS show was a great opportunity to clear all the details about the pods and incorporate the information into the kit and the decal sheet.

Even with in the specific version for the Su-35 aircraft there are some “major” differences between the right and the left pod. This view offers a good comparison between them.

 

 

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I have not yet decided if to replace the navigation lights for clear plastic versions or not. For the wing tip R-73 missile launcher rails separate clear lights are provided (Part E10) so there is a strong chance that I will borrow them.

The pods were cut from the sprue at the very beginning and the halves glued together. Dry run was made to see how they fit and a little adjustment was needed on the location pins inside to make the sides level. Once again liquid cement was used so I left the pods to dry for few days.

The pod halves join right in the middle of the completely flat top and bottom surface. On the top surface there are two tinny lifting attachments. I cut them off for the moment to make sanding the top and bottom easier. The lifting attachments will be replaced later with stretched sprue.

 

 

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While the pods were drying started on several areas of the kit. The nose gear bay was one of them. A very shallow push pin mark is visible on Part A5. Arrow shows its place. I used super glue to fill it up. After drying it was cut flat and lightly sanded. Have no idea if it would have been visible or not, but just in case it was removed, took just minutes, so . . .

 

 

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The nose gear parts were also cut from the sprues. Here they are the way we get them. Noticed another push pin mark on nose gear oleo. Will have to deal with that, although I think some kind of foil will be used for the oleo. This is how far I got, now it’s some cleaning of the parts and doing some basic assembly of the gear leg.

 

 

Z3rM3cP.jpg

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Wow!

This is a very interesting tread... :yes:

Edited by matteo44

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I have just noticed that some basic information’s were not included here. Like the kit box is just a little over 1kg in weight (1020g) and its size is 45 x 33 x 10 cm.

 

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Two decal sheets are provided. One is mainly for aircraft markings while the other is for stencils.

 

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A small photoetch is provided. Option is given to have the flare dispensers made in a covered form (the way they are usually at air shows or on training flights), small AOA vanes are provided for the nose of the R-73 missile. There is an option to replace the plastic formation lights with nice photoetch examples. A template is included for positioning the small formation lights on top and bottom of the wings.

 

 

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Here are the sprues.

 

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Best regards

Gabor

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While some primer was drying on first painted parts did some assembly work on the nose gear. For full use of the kit, sprue pieces were used to hold the different part for painting.

 

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This is as the leg stands (is lying down) :winkgrin: at the moment. The moulding pin marks (shown last time) were filled with drops of super glue and sanded. Basically this is out of box here apart from that single brace. Don’t know how much will be visible of it, still it was there on my photos of the original aircraft so made it from extra thin plastic sheet. This brace is holding some of the piping so I will need it later on.

 

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In the next step I will start some super detailing of the gear leg. Adding piping, some wiring and a bit of detailing the plastic parts based on photos.

 

 

The slats are made from two parts mainly to avoid the usual sink marks that one would find on all Flanker kits. Also this way it can be assembled both in up or down position. On the ground / in static it is almost always in dropped position. Here liquid cement was used, it run into the joint line perfectly. There are location pins inside the slats, where super glue was to add strength to the slats. I avoid using liquid cement for location pins since it melts the plastic and could result in nasty sink mark when it dry’s completely.

 

UTdUW2a.jpg

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Work is on but nothing spectacular to show. Some work on the intakes. The engine front compressor stage is in the paint shop. Had a look at the intake ducting. The two part “air duct” is where there is a transformation from square cross section to the round engine front. Not much will be visible of the inside but I think I will still do some filling of the longitudinal joint line. Here a slight force had to be used to get the side walls in right place, but actually if one puts the two parts inside the engine cover part everything will fall in place. There is spare space left. The outer wall of the duct also act as the wall inside the main gear pivot area.

 

 

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Some wheel parts are about to go into the paint shop but before this I slightly improved on the cooling vents of the wheel brakes. A 0.35 mm drill was used to open up the holes to make them more prominent. There is absolutely no problem with the stock plastic parts, a bit of weathering would do the job. It was simply my own personal taste and the holes were drilled.

 

 

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There are parts of the kit which I consider as extras and in some cases appealing only to a very small minority of modellers. One such thing is the radar unit. Somewhere I have already written about it as it was a late addition to surface again after it was left of at an early stage of design. Once it was clear that it will be part of the kit, I forced the inclusion of a decal for the front face of the radar.

The radar will not be part of my kit, but still would like to see what it looks like in final form and what is more important how does the decal look on it. So it will be a side-track work in days ahead.

 

 

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Best regards

Gabor

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A bit of fun between doing painting. Wanted to see what the radar looks like even if it will not be used on this airframe. (But Never say Never)  So first a quick dry run of the parts. Between parts C4 and C5 there is joint line, which I would prefer not to be there. Later to hide it I added a 0.13 thin sheet of styrene sheet to hide it.

 

 

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OK, so how dose it look like on the nose of the kit?

 

 

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Add the radar dish and it is complete. This time only Blu-Tack was used to see the whole assembly.

 

 

 

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All the fun with the radar was accompanied with some experimenting to make other sensors for the kit, like the new style AOA / pitot sensors and the little round sensors which are positioned around the cockpit to give a 360 view of the surrounding.

 

 

 

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The ideas worked so they will be back when finishing the kit.

 

Best regards

Gabor

Edited by ya-gabor

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On a Russian forum a question was raised concerning the radar. At the base of the radar on the forward bulkhead Ш1 (fuselage frame 1) there is a conical shaped protector. It is made up of three segments for ease of maintenance and each one can be removed with 3 screws on each side from the dedicated support frame. At least on the left side there is an opening on the covers.

It covers the base of the radar units and lots of wiring but also the beautifully perforated Frame 1. :crying:

 

 

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It is concerning this that the question was raised. The perforated Frame 1 was visible on so many occasions at different shows and press events. Yes, it is true that this frame looks like this (have to say it is fantastic and would love to make it for the kit) but the aircraft seen in the past were either prototypes or radar test bed airframes (like a test Su-30).

 

The G.W.H Su-35S kit is intended to represent production aircraft and from these aircraft from Batch 2 and higher up. On production examples this protector conical shaped unit was installed. Have to add a correction here to the G.W.H instruction sheet. The colour of the conical shaped unit should be light blue. Well this is what they look like on photos and TV programs from the KnAAPO Su-35 assembly line. This is the reason why it was made for the kit. Blame me if you don’t like it. :winkgrin:

 

Best regards

Gabor

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