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I will build a Porsche 910. Think of a number - Finished!


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The Story so far...

As @Black Knight has pointed out, I was an early backer of GB and I finally got back home and survived running out of heating oiil and dental abscesses! At least it gave me plenty of contemplating or confusing time. to re-cap...

 

I was going with the Broden EAA VC10, but @Roland has that thoroughly under control, and having seen the state of the tail...

 

You see, like many of us the new year brings a comiment to finishing some builds, so I want a mojo boost😆. Next on the list was a Midland Railway 10 ton brake van, I first came across these 40 years ago and they're as lop sided as me. 

 

Midland Railway brake van at Swanwick Junction.

 

There's a Slater's O gauge (1:43) kit available, but the review I read was not encouraging and I feared for my mojo😬

 

Thoughts then turned to ships and I scoured every RN WW2 pennant number in search of a 10 before noticing at about the same time as @Corsairfoxfouruncle that Yorktown was CV(A) 10. The Trumpeter model looks a gem, but all those tiny tiny planes in 1/700 scared me

 

But I found the Revell Fair play X (Roman in numeral) tugboat. Reviews say that lots of small parts are totally bounded to the sprue, and who am I to break a strong relationship!

 

@SAU came to the rescue with some car suggestions. Topping the list was a Tamiya Alpine A110, what could better soothe the mojo? Especially as they do a precise Alpine Blue paint for it. Wonderful internet, I can order it and have it waiting for when I get home. Sorted. 

What is wrong with us modellers? And I know I'm not alone in being distracted look at KUTA😉. This time my downfall was seeing that there is a model auction in our nearest town this very day, and listed are...

Fire brigade models kit of a Volvo FL10, resin and white metal but no reviews

And

Tenariv Porsche910, again resin and white metal. Found a generic reviews that says they are lovely kits from a French car fanatic who stopped producing in 2008- freaky eh😵...

 

 

Those are my top contenders. Obviously I should go with the Tamiya for my mojo😷 ailment. Even the Kindle auto correct makes resin into resign😱. But I suspect I'll be along with the Porsche, unless the bidding goes silly😛

 

Which meant 2 weeks before I actually started Unless I have another good idea😜. I expect the gallery will be full of wonderful builds before I even start my engine; and there is a masterpiece in there already and some beauts well on their way. Which means that starting right from the back of the grid is me

 

 

 

Edited by Mjwomack
Corrections and update
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  • Mjwomack changed the title to I will build a Porsche 910 it's a car

A day at the auction and I've won a Tenariv Porsche 910 Spyder 1967. Actually I almost didn't as I had a micro-sleep at a crucial moment and was nearly outbid! but it's mine and the budget was kept to with no auction fever (re-assuring that I don't get every illness going)

 

Tenariv is a pallindrome for Viranet a French company created by Jean-Pierre Viranet in 1980 . Jean-Pierre was a passionate petrol-head for machines of the 1960s, and sonme 300 models later stopped production in the necessary 2008. This is my first venture into limited run petrol head and I feel humbled to have got hold of a model by someone who clearly knew and loved his stuff so I hope I don't stuff it up but produce something fitting.

 

So we come to the shot of the box, instructions and parts. I know this is often a couple of pictures but it's only 1:43 scale so can all be fitted in one go.

Parts.jpg

 

I think I'lll say that the instruction sheet/ painting guide is in the French minimalist style, but at least I'm not overwhelmed by the number of parts. Here's the main event and the most detailed part of the build

 

Body.jpg

 

Loving the detail on the wiper blade. The decals are for car 17 which a quick research suggests won the 1,000 km race at the Nurburgring in 1967 so would have attracted John-Pierre's interest.

The cockpit/ cabin is sparsely detailled but with a lovely vac-form glazing unti I think something needs to be done about that., otherwise assembly looks simple enough after some cleaning up and taking care of a little bit of pitting and scratching. The decals are very yellowed, but there aren't many of them and they seem to be simply the race numbers so I might have a go at painting them or making my own.

 

Unlike M. Viranet, I nothing about Porsche 910s so a lot or research and learning on that side of things ahead, but otherwise as they would say in 1967, 'Gentlemen start your engines', or maybe ' Meine Herren, starten Sie Ihre Motoren'

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13 hours ago, Rob G said:

Mmm nice. Here's some inspiration

 

 

I'll have to carve out a lot of the resin to fit in the speaker and sound card, and I hope the young lady doesn't scratch the wing with her high heels (nor the driver come to that!)

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A week into the build and I don't have much to show for it, but with only 17 parts and a yellowing decal sheet it's kind of all or nothing. This week though, the yellowing decal sheet has been taped to a window and the sun has been shiny so that's progress.

All the parts are cleaned up and ready for some primer to go on.

 

But most of the week has been spent on research. I've never been into noisy cars (or any cars) and this has opened up a whole new world to me. Never mind Harold Wilson's 'white heat of technology' stuff, the 60s really were like that! Porsche were refining their designs to quickly that the 910 hadn't entered a race before his successor was being built- that's as quick as Apple can produce new iPhones (other brands available for denigration). About 30 of the 910 were produced, entered races and were sold onto privateers to collect or race as they saw fit.

 

And that's made research very hard, there are so many later mods that trying to figure out what the originals looked like is impossible; my biggest conundrum is did it have a roof? The moulding suggests it did, but it could be a very big casting line. Lots of photos show no roof though, which I suppose saved a few kg until the cockpit filled up with rainwater (stuff the driver's comfort). So, the roof is off. Once that decision was made I realised that this meant that the doors had no top, rather the top of the glass just sits there with no frame around it- better not make a mess of the one and only transparency in the kit when it's cutting time.

 

Oh and of course there's always aftermarket parts aren't there. Ever the downfall, I've now spent half as much again on parts as I did on the original kit. But it had to be done because....

A distinctive feature is that the wheels only had a single lock nut onto the axle; illegal for a road car (I can't understand why it clearly had a number plate) but valuable time in a pit-stop (marginal gains I think they call it nowadays), so I had to buy some of those, especially as it'll hide the problem of metal axle looking like a Matchbox toy.

Then, there needs to be a safety harness. The more so as there's no roof to obscure the view into the spartan driving compartment. Trouble is I don't know what aq 1960 racing car harness should look like, hoping someone brilliant has an idea but at the moment it's going to be a 4 point one. similar to this is the problem of the co-driver's seat, what goes in it, did they even have a co-driver or swap drivers at pit-stops?  Nargh

Finally, after a friend thought I'd got the scale wrong and there was no way a person would fit in, I've order a driver to go next to it and give a sense of scale... again having seen some photos of how people towered above this beastie driver comfort was not a priority and I think they must of recruited from horse jockeys who wanted more horse-power!

 

Finally for this post. Thanks to everyone for such a fascinating, entertaining and diverse GB and total respect to those already over the finish line- I will join you because I've given up giving up for Lent and this model WILL be finished before Easter...or I quit!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think I might need some snow-tyres fitting....

 

on the positive side, I'm pretty confident of a few good modelling sessions over the next few evenings. Which is all too the good, because just before the snow came the postie came!

 

20180227_201139.jpg 

 

Yum yum. Except the wheel nuts are really small, and the seat harness parts even small apart from the square of black fabric at the back of the pack to cut the straps from. Hope my guide dog can see better than me; actually I think it might be time to spend on a pair of magnifying goggles.

 

Don't worry, I'm not recreating, Zombie Mutant Death Race from Mars...

20180227_201243.jpg 

 

But you can get an idea of how 'compact' it is. The moulding on the driver is lovely and crisp, with a choice of heads with or without goggles; think he's going to set it off really nicely. Turns out Le Mans wasn't the only Le Mans start, the Nuremberg was as well.

 

So what can possibly go wrong?

20180227_201410.jpg 

 

So far, from left to right.

 

I was very pleased with my resin dust-catcher; I put damp kitchen towel into a cold meat tray from Morrison's (other supermarkets are available) and sand above that, and dab the parts in it as well. Genius (I start from a low base), except in my eagerness one of the wheel hubs snapped (as everyone else knows, resin is very brittle), best solution was to use the rest of the wheel as a splint around it and glue it straight in. Not ideal as it really needs to be away from the 'back' a bit, but I haven't worked out how to do that yet on the others. And in any case I'm hoping that the running driver can mask it.

 

The plan is to use acrylics as much as possible, except the rattle-can in the driver's cockpit when very odd; too much pressure (Ska revival time) or too cold, since then it's been sanding back though and rehabilitated.

 

I think I need a thicker CA glue for the body-filler, which means I want snow to give me lots of modelling time AND I want clear roads to get out and buy some...MEN they're never satisfied!!

 

Snowbound or keeping out of the snow, happy modelling everyone

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Thicker CA glue on order after I realised a trader I often use on a well known website had an offer on and it's easier than driving anywhere. In the meantime, I've been making wheels good progress.

 

With one wheel cobbled together as best I could and no instructions, I've spent a fair biota time pondering how to assemble the other wheels. It's not that simple as the  centre resin section is consistently too short to reach the circumference. I wondered about using more of the eagerly awaited CA glue to extend but that's a lot of fiddly work. Or maybe putting packing behind each spoke. In the end though I've settled upon putting a thin plastrut shim into each hub to narrow the diameter. The next consideration was that the spokes should point back into the car rather than out. And then there's the teenie-weenis wheel nut to go on. Oh, and the axles are metal rod with plenty of spare on the end that need trimming back. I think that last part actually helps...here then is the theory...

 

Porsche_910_wheels.jpg 

 

On the left, a shim waiting to be fitted, next one in place. Then comes what I hope is the clever bit; tyre on the axle ready, the hub then goes with the axle coming through (after the axle has been trimmed to length). Then the spokes go in, resting on the shim on the edge and the axle in the centre. All crowned with the wheel nut before painting with black grey paint. Once dry, the tyre gets slip onto the wheel and onto the next one.

On the right is the wheel with the shattered spokes, but it gives a good idea of how it will look; though I've still got to pick up courage for the wheel nut.

 

So far, so good.

 

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Provided one's in the mood, fiddling around with these little challenges can actually be quite fun, can't it? :banghead:

It looks like you're enjoying this one MJ - I'm certainly enjoying the show.

 

Cliff

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'll say that I'm well positioned on the grid and uncharacteristically optimistic! Pictorial update tonight or tomorrow, but all the AM arrived, worked out nearly all of the theory and moving towards some visible progress tonight.

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Re the single wheel nut. Design rules differed somewhat in the 60s, and there were a number of non-racing road cars with 'knock-off' wheels that had just a single centre nut- just about anything that had wire wheels was set up that way (E-type Jaaaags spring to mind), as were a lot of the high end European marques that used those new-fangled alloy wheels; have a look at period photos of Ferrari and Lamborghini cars.

 

Time saving? Most definitely. One large nut, secured to the wheel, often with big ears for using a rubber mallet to remove and replace (but not, I think, in Herr Porsche' s case), instead of 4 or 5 tiny ones, all loose that needed a pneumatic gun to work on. Single wheel nuts are still used in competition today; there must be something good in that design.

 

Besides, centre nuts are just cool. Makes it a pukkah racing car.

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And a centre nut it is...

 

DSC_0920.jpg 

 

Hope you can make it out in this picture; I tell myself that it was the effort! I did see the 3 and 4 ear nuts were also available and was tempted as they were more obvious but non-prototypical.

Progress is picking up speed now- axles nearing completion, the masking tap band is to differentiate the front axle as I kid myself that my cutting is accurate enough to get the differences in track width. Very pleased with how filling the gap in the driver's shoulders has gone.

 

Still on the no idea pile is the light assembly, but that's the last thing to do. Oh, and another problem has been the lack of sunlight to bleach the decals back so increasingly expect to paint on the few that are needed.

 

Prototype research has been hard but I've taken the plunge and removed the co-driver's seat so that only the bucket is left and will not be giving it a harness. And that's the real conundrum; having brought the 6 point NASCAR harness and still not figured it out, let alone 'winding it back' to a 60s design, I read this passage about the actual race:

 

'Joe Buzetta and Udo Schutz formed the incongruous driver pairing for this car. The American was small, the German huge. Such an ill-conceived couple was chosen to ensure a German driver in each Porsche capable of winning. As the car hurtled into the air over the ‘Ring’s famous jumps, the smaller driver’s feet left the pedals and his body floated off the seat. “It was dangerous as hell” said Joe but such was the price paid for a proper public relations victory. Right behind this Porsche were two more 910/6s.'

 

https://revsinstitute.org/the-collection/1967-porsche-9106/

 

Which now makes me think I'm over-engineering the harness, @Rob G and anyone who knows more than me (which is probably everyone), any help please on how a 60's harness should be set-up? I've singularly failed to find anything on the internet which doesn't look like a later fitting in a privateer car.

 

Thanks to the whole modelling community on here for support and encouragement, I think I'll make my target of 1 April

Michael

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  • 4 weeks later...

Not quite to the finishing line, let alone the rostrum- always the details that slow it down but here's the state of play

 

20180403_180103.jpg 

 

The decals have bleached pretty well for their 6 weeks or so in the winter sun, but I've now decided the red bonnet will obscure the detail too much so will paint that one.

Body's had a few coats of acrylic spray and I'm pleased, especially pleased that after breaking the top of the windscreen twice I've got the hang of how brittle resin is (whoops). Very pleased to have got the chip on the rear spoiler filled. Found some brass 'breadboard' that I'lll use for the engine vent grills for some detail there.

Chassis all finished including rudimentary seat harness 

And the driver is coming along nicely.

All in all, going well

 

 

 

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It's nice to see this one progressing so well Michael :).  Have you had any thoughts yet on how easy or difficult the glazing will be?

 

Cliff

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50:50!

I've trimmed the windscreen unit and that fits in very neatly on a dry run; the only problem being self-inflicted by breaking the top of the windscreen frame once too often. I'll be doing that one first because...

 

I can't even figure out where I meant to cut the unit with the light covers in it, err or where exactly they are on it or even which way up they go! Some instructions, even in French would've been a great help and not just for dusting down my school-boy French! Lack of instructions seems to be a feature of 1:43 limited run cars because the other half of the auction lot was a 1971 can-am which looks gorgeous but has twice as many parts and a colour photo to show just how gorgeous it can be, but strictly no instructions either - one day (maybe).

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  • 2 weeks later...

It even looks like a car now....

20180415_211051.jpg 

Decals surprisingly good for limited edition and of their age. Glad I'm not using the big red one though. Also frustrated that the P looks too small now that it's on. 

Windscreen etc trimmed well enough but the headlights covers are being left in the hope that I suddenly realise how they for

 

Nearly done though

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