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P-39 Q "Aircobra" - Hobby Boss 1:72


CedB

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21 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

:penguin:Bravo Ced. You’re doing a great job there sir.  You have picked up the beginnings of Digital 3D modeling rather well. I use 3D Studio Max at work and this was how I made my 250 Bomb for the Messerschmitt last year. Although 3D printing is pretty good I found it’s a bit less accurate the smaller the item needed, also sanding the blinders is a bit of a struggle. I’m really looking forward to what you manage to get out of your new bit of kit however. Cap well and truly doffed. 

 

John.

Thanks Johnny, very kind :)

21 hours ago, stevehnz said:

I must say that when Ced showed the photo with the U/C doors the right way around my reaction was, heck, a lick with a sanding stick would sort that, but that wouldn't be half as interesting or as much fun as this 3D malarkey, so carry on as you are Ced, I'm all eyes. :)

Steve.

Thanks Steve - it's a test, that's my excuse. Once I've mastered the technique I can make new things... that's the plan :)

21 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

Don’t let @Martian Hale hear you say that.:lol:

:rofl2:

19 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:

Coming on Wednesday, did you say?

Now, it feels like Christmas Eve! 

 Is he here yet.... is he here yet!?

Thanks Rob, wait not longer! :)

 

 

39973488372_4fb9e96d59_z.jpg

Wandao Duplicator i3 Mini by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

I was excited and went through the setup. My initial experiences are not good:

 

26134810048_950003503b_z.jpg

Um.... by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

It's table levelling. I've seen a video on YouTube that says 'ignore the setup instructions and do this...'.

I will calm down, have something to eat and try again.

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53 minutes ago, CedB said:

I will calm down, have something to eat and try again.

Hello Ced. Great work on the 3D printings. I guess the most difficult thing is to make a good model file to be printed. Go on with that and you will have sucess very soon with a bit of patience! Maybe this help ( or maybe you can print yourself one in the future:whistle:):

post2.jpg

Edited by bbudde
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Zounds!

 

An 'Easy Assembly' build that leads to the acquisition of a 3d printer by page 4 has to be some kind of a milestone for the forum Ced.:D

 

I applaud your willingness to push forth in new directions and most interested to see how that Wandao does one and do others end up wanting one too.

 

Dependent on the material you're printing with you may find some slight shrinkage when it cools anyway, so don't worry if your initial outline is a tad oversize in the CAD environment when you're getting an initial feel for the tolerances of the gear in question.

 

Admiring your pluck. :worthy:

Tony

 

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Thanks Simon, Benedikt, Cocky, Cookie and Bill :)

Hi Tony - I hope all as well as can be expected at home. Printing with PLA, the only thing really the cheap ones will print with as far as I know. Thanks for the tips - it's all your fault, of course :D

 

Don't jinx it but I got my problems sorted and it's printing a test file as we speak. 11% through after 20 minutes. I have no idea what it is... it's called 'OK'.

 

 

 

Of course I Googled it. It's a handy, er, hand:

 

4a281d3eff22d85b666e8155400c409d_preview

 

We'll see what mine turns out like in, oh, a few hours or so.

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Well, no one could ever accuse you of being a Luddite!

Was that stringy thing printed by you? If so you'd better not let Mrs B see it or she'll have you printing doilies for when her chums come to tea.

 

Keep on keeping on.

 

John

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Thanks Bill - yes, it did make me, er, think a bit but it's quite small :D

Thanks John - the stringy thing is a base to help adhesion of the model to the bed and it's good practice (it says on YouTube). This one didn't stick. Ahem. :(

 

'Levelling' the bed is critical, they say. The first layer has to squish onto the bed and stick so that the model doesn't move during printing. I eventually got the thing to stick through trial and error and the application of some of the glue stick that came in the box (but use of which isn't mentioned in the instructions)

Off went the print and all went well for about an hour (I think) and then the head moved off, dithered and then went back. Odd. Left a string but hey, I can always cut that off.

After another few minutes the print just stopped.

Oh, I thought, perhaps it's having a rest? Nope. Nothing happening. Better cancel the print then.

The head then lowered, smashing into the model and sticking the plastic to the head:

 

26138217688_1039b77417_z.jpg

Gaaaaaahhh by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

I was able to pull it off by heating the extruder and gently tugging. Rats (to put it lightly).

Internet sources point to several causes (mostly component or Gcode / file errors) but no solutions. There's lots of posts about pulling the printer apart and checking connections. Hmmm.

One video also says you should treat this as a hobby and develop techniques to work around problems and increase your expertise over time.

I have a hobby thanks and I don't need another one! I was looking for a reliable tool and I don't want to mess around with this technology... I had enough of that sort of thing when 'home computers' first came out.

They were 'hobby subjects' and people spent huge amounts of time building them from scratch and trying to get things working.

Then suppliers started to produce kits to short-cut some of the major construction and to appeal to 'enthusiasts'.

Then other suppliers jumped on the band wagon and produced cheaper kits aimed at a wider audience.

Cheaper because they weren't as well made.

I fear that 3D printers may have reached this stage, but then I may just be a cynical old man. Maybe.

 

That said I was impressed by the surface finish of the print.

I think I'll work on the model of the doors and see how that goes.

If it continues to be unreliable I think it will go back to the supplier - I don't have the enthusiasm, or the patience, to fiddle with my tools all the time (fnaar!)

 

Mrs B is hosting their book club tonight so I need to do some chores today. I hope to get some time to fiddle later.

Watch this space!

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Oh dear...

 

 

I sense a man, drawn by the tides of modernity and the drives of highly tuned acuity, this man...

 

 

Well he just 'bees' off to get a bigger, better machine

 

I hope that man isn't watching this enticing frippery and spending even more of his 'Fly Lightning' fund

 

🙈🙉🙊

 

 

 

🙅

 I confess to a certain "I wish it was on YouTube"

 

As a casual passer by it sounded quite amusing

Sorry Ced. 😱

 

('spect you're assembling code instead)

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Have you considered using Plasticard for the undercarriage doors? ( Sorry to be facetious, )

Like all new hi-tech gizmos it will take some time to master, but I'm sure you'll get there in the end. I've just had to buy a manual in the " for dummies " series for my new camera!

What  material is the object printed from the way?

 

Cheers

 

John

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2 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

take some time to master, but I'm sure you'll get there in the end

Aahh but... CedB has been modelling for some years, maybe he hasn't master much in modelling, maybe this is why he turned to technology where maybe some plasticard would've sufficed.:shrug:

On the upside, he is our 'pathfinder', battling against all the odds to harness this technology and aid his fellow BMer's with upgrades and stuff.:whistle:

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Thanks Bill, you know me so well :D Should I buy a better machine or wait until the technology is more 'mainstream' in the hobby market? Won't be more than a year or so I'm sure...

Thanks John :) Plasticard? How does dat work den? The material is 'PLA', an ecologically friendly plastic. No idea how well it 'works' with regards to sanding / glueing yet but I'm sceptical now, of course.

Thanks Stuart :) I'm a tool tart, no point denying it. IF this works I can model and print perfect parts (see Hendie's SACRU's from Shapeways), like the exhaust for the Harvard (yes, I've started a model), that I've found hard or 'messy' using plastic bits. I've not tried soldering, yet. Perhaps that's a better bet...

 

More tribulations this morning. I measured up the model and marked up the dimensions on a copy of the image:

 

39987739352_2dce45aaba_z.jpg

Measure and Markup by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

... then sized the model to the kit dimensions. Bit of 'sprue added' for adhesion and thickness set to 0.75mm, not unusual for the sort of stuff we need IMHO:

 

39309853464_edaf746446_z.jpg

 

Into Cura to slice the model:

 

25149051257_10b878b89c_z.jpg

 

and print. Rubbish. I'd not set the fill to 100%. Back into Cura and try again:

 

39988423212_cd346eedca_z.jpg

 

No idea. Still rubbish eh? I think the adhesion and levelling was right:

 

40019875461_2302a20c45_n.jpg 39122026625_532e9babe2_n.jpg

 

Rats. Double rats. I must admit I was impressed by the surface finish on the 'OK':

 

39988310182_7719668e29_z.jpg

Surface finish by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

... before it crashed. Macro lens shot that.

 

Worth persevering? Still not sure. I've created a test piece to check performance on holes, bumps and dents:

 

25149782307_e18082ecac_z.jpg

 

That's printing now. If it works I'll persevere.

If not, it's going back!

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“We are the Pilgrims, master; we shall go
Always a little further; it may be
Beyond that last blue mountain barred with snow 
Across that angry or that glimmering sea”

 

Ah Ced we know how you are wired

 

And we can sit back knowing that a new wizardry is about to meet its master

 

(let's face it, if this goes back there WILL be another, shinier and glimmering...)

 

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Far be it from me to discourage Ced in his desire to buy "all the tools" but I cannot but help think the original 10p of plastikard suggestion still holds merit?

 

I'm a fan of 3d printing for complex three dimensional shapes but these are not they, and this again smacks of overkill.

 

How about using your 3d drawing as a template to make a mask using your cutter, then trimming the plastikard to match the mask.

 

Or would your cutter thingy (not sure of the name?) cut them from plastikard itself? Both better solutions for this essentially 2 dimensional shape I would have thought.

 

Kudos for the perseverance, but if it ain't fun, go back to basics!

 

If you do get it working, how about releasing a Ced Skunk Works V1 print?

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I actually think that you're proceeding in a sensible fashion trying to troubleshoot outputting a simple planar shape first Ced.

 

From experience with both CGI and physical modelling I know that if you are able to learn and calibrate your tools to produce something relatively simple initially, you can then build up to producing more complex and specific outputs incrementally on an informed - and more importantly - controllable basis.

 

It sounds counterintuitive but ignore the fact that you're building a specific part for an aircraft at the moment and just focus on understanding and gaining a feel for  the particularities of the  3d process here itself. From such patient development does fluency and insight flow...

 

None of us expect this to be an easy learning curve and all of us respect your determination to attack this problem in the full glare of public scrutiny as it were - your learning increases the collective knowledge of those watching.

Bravo and thanks for being brave enough to teach us! :worthy:

Tony

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1 hour ago, CedB said:

IF this works I can model and print perfect parts (see Hendie's SACRU's from Shapeways), 

 

I fear Ced, that Shapeways will be using rather more expensive and sophisticated printers than thee.... I think you may welll struggle to get near their level of quality. but have fingers & toes crossed that you do!

 

Keith

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51 minutes ago, 06/24 said:

Oh, I'm not doubting Ced's resolve or his talents, and I understand the logic of why one might want to start with a basic shape, but this still feels like a long way for a short cut, imho...

This isnt of course, a short cut

This is a giant leap and I feel privileged to be on the ride with him

 

(but I get your point too :)  )

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Thanks Gents - all comments appreciated and replied to after 'the news' below :)

 

Proverbs 26:11 is very relevant here.

 

The raft laid down well and printing progressed:

 

40021023911_4aee89bdaa_n.jpg 40021029431_8d38a1ee6e_n.jpg

 

Some weird crinkly noises made me run to the printer - the filling in seemed to be, er, intermediate:

 

39311534084_d2a382e43c_z.jpg

Fill stuff at 25% complete by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

After a couple of hours, it's finished:

 

39990423282_be9e26bc8f_z.jpg

Hmmm by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

Macro shots:

 

40021928031_695f2ef252_n.jpg 39990458682_ec9fabe667_n.jpg

 

Square peg and bumps and dents:

 

39312271554_014d9786e5_n.jpg 39990475202_12af36d24d_n.jpg

 

Crossed lines and circles:

 

40021957851_36169a3cc1_n.jpg

 

Not a happy bunny then. I think it'll have to go back. Shame. What am I left with?

 

26149287398_3b078db3d8_z.jpg

 

... and a spool of PLA. Ho hum, it was 'an experience'.

 

Summary and replies

I'm writing this to summarise my experience and not to pretend I'm any sort of expert; it's just the result of a day or three fiddling with the software and the Wanhao i3 Mini.

 

Bill I won't be buying a better one, yet. I think (after reading posts and blogs on the 'net) that the 'hobby' side of the technology is still developing; the machine is cheap but not reliable IMHO and the resolution with the PLA I was using suffers from poor extrusion. Nice try from me but no cigar.

 

Jon you're right, it was overkill for the doors and, of course, I'll be using Plasticard any minute now. The idea was to test the technology and share experiences and, if it had gone well, move on to more complex models. Who knows, if it had worked out, Simon might have got his Spitfire nose!

 

Tony thanks for the kind comments and advice - I've seen your design on the Dornier and it, and the software, is much more sophisticated than the stuff available for free (as far as I could find). We've yet to see if the 'hobby' side of the technique develops to get closer to the professional one. I suspect it will, over time.

 

Keith you're absolutely right - the professional machines are far more capable (and expensive) although I think the i3 Mini might be OK for printing designs from the 'net (lots of videos on YouTube with happy clients). It's just not right for me at the moment.

 

So that's it. Back to 'traditional' methods for me until the Hobby 3D printing market develops. I predict it will be months rather than years, but then what do I know?

 

Now, where's my Plasticard :D

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Geeze, Ced, I can't keep up with you these days!

 

If you ever opt to dive back into 3d printing, let me know -- my friend Josh has his own 3d hobby part printing business (he owns five machines and runs a library makerlab), and I'd be happy to put you in touch with him to discuss the ideal machine for your purposes.

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