Beginner

[Coutinho]

Hello everyone, I am sure there are answers to my beginner questions all over the forum, but I feel it would be easier to have one thread to refer to as I'm building my first model. 

 

I've been googling for a few hours and have been finding mixed information all over on the advantages and disadvantages of enamel and acrylic paints, the method for applying them and the method for finishing them with gloss coats / protector coats.

 

It should be noted that I will exclusively be using brushes to paint my models. I understand that for large areas to help have an even and realistic paint surface, I should use a large flat brush.  However, what motion do I use to paint? How many layers/coats of the same colour?

 

I also found conflicting information on whether or not you need primer before you add colour. Many say just washing the kit with soap before painting is enough. Can you add primer with a brush?

 

Which type of paint is most suited to brush painting? Acrylic or enamel? I know acrylic is easier to clean, better to your health and can be thinned with water, but many say theyre difficult to apply and can give an unrealistic appearance when painted on with brushes. Enamels are said to be easier to apply with brush, but need many different chemicals to thin and clean the brush.

 

The final coat to seal the paint and decals is also said to be necessary, but can this be painted on with brushes or must it be sprayed? If using gloss acrylic paints, I believe I can apply decals straight onto the final coat of paint, but if I needed to apply a gloss coat before decaling, can that gloss coat be brushed on?

 

Sorry for so many questions!!! I guess building your first model really is the most difficult! Painting seems a daunting task at the moment. 

 

Thank you in advance for any advice and help, I really appreciate it!

[Patrick Martin]

Aye laddie you are opening Pandora's box with Acrylic or enamel question.  Last I heard on this topic it was put to me like this... "I can throw my enamel model across the room and it will not scratch - but if I look at Acrylic painted model sideways, it will show wear!"  If you are starting - when you bugger things up, it all washes away with water when you use Acrylic - start there.  Do not miss the two until you do a lot of reading....

PM

 

[Vlad]

Most acrylics do dry waterproof (otherwise the next layer will wash off the first) but they can be cleaned off easily with household cleaners.

 

Personally, I made the switch from enamels to acrylics and I don't regret it. So much easier to just roll my chair 2 feet right from my PC to my work area and do a spot of painting when I feel like it rather than having to open every window in the house to paint then store the drying model in another room. Also quick drying means I can carry on basically when I want rather than planning painting sessions around enamel curing times. I just find the whole experience with acrylics so hassle free and much more enjoyable.

 

Having said that, acrylics absolutely need priming whereas enamels don't really. I use Halfords grey primer. Enamels cover better, self level better and dry to a tougher finish. Acrylics will rub off if manhandled too much even when primed. This is also why finish/varnish is more important on acrylics than enamels, but you can brush this as well if you don't want to mess with rattle cans (I have a separate thread about this a few steps down the page). Gloss paint takes decals directly, matt needs a gloss coat first. 

 

Acrylics take a little practice to brush because they dry quickly which invites brush marks and ruins brushes. You will need to practice with your chosen brand but basic principles apply: thin the paint, use the biggest brush that won't interfere with what you're doing and do long strokes all in the same direction.

 

Do you have a brand of acrylics in mind? They tend to vary a bit so you'll get better specific advice if you pick one to ask about.

[Coutinho]

Thank you so much for the information!

 

As long as I can do everything with the brushes, I feel like acrylics are the way to go.

 

The smells and chemicals of enamel paints had already made me lean towards acrylics anyway.

 

In terms of which company I'll have access too, my local hobby store supplies both Tamiya and Gunze acrylics, and probably any primer and varnish these two companies also make.

 

I've heard some good things about Gunze paint, but would love some more opinions.

 

 

 

 

[Vlad]

Tamiya acrylics dry way too fast for brush painting and as far as I remember aren't odourless either. Tried them a long time ago, not good memories. Gunze I have no idea.

 

Primer is the one thing I make an exception for and spray from rattle can, because you need something stronger to bind to the plastic than what the paint manufacturers give you.

[LotusArenco]

5 hours ago, Coutinho said:

The smells and chemicals of enamel paints had already made me lean towards acrylics anyway.

 

In terms of which company I'll have access too, my local hobby store supplies both Tamiya and Gunze acrylics

Just be aware that Tamiya and Gunze can smell just as much as enamels.

 

Mart

[Coutinho]

If there's still a case of smell with either type, at least I guess acrylics can be thinned with water and can be cleaned easier.

 

Bad to hear about Tamiya acrylics drying so fast. Which acrylics do you all use/recommend with a brush?

 

 

[Steve Noble]

Best paints I've ever used for brush painting are Vallejo Model Colour. No smell, brush very easily and to a very smooth finish. Wash out with water.

[Coutinho]

9 minutes ago, Steve Noble said:

Best paints I've ever used for brush painting are Vallejo Model Colour. No smell, brush very easily and to a very smooth finish. Wash out with water.

Interesting, I will have to try them. Are they typically a glossy finish? 

 

With applying primer from a spray can, can I just spray all the parts while they're on the sprue after giving them a clean? I'm guessing that it might be easier to apply a glossy coat and a final varnish by spraying too.

[Steve Noble]

Some gloss ones in the range but mostly matt finish. I personally remove most parts from the sprues and build up small sub assemblies, then paint them together as one. You can paint stuff on the sprues if you prefer, it depends what works for you. I tend to spray can or airbrush final gloss coats..

[Coutinho]

Turns out I can also get a hold of Humbrol acrylic paints, how are they with the brush? I've seen good things from research.

 

One last question. Let's say I apply paint that has a matt finish, I then spray a gloss varnish so I can place decals. Once the decals have been placed, can I spray on a matt varnish finish as a final coat to protect decals and sort of reduce the glossy shine? Is it possible to apply both a gloss and matt varnish on the same model?

 

The varnish sprays I would most likely use are the Humbrol acrylic gloss and matt spray paints.

 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

If i had a choice between Tamiya and Gunze ? Gunze 110% is the way i’d go. My experience with Tamiya is not good for brush painting. Thats my two cents worth hope it helps. 

[Vlad]

Humbrol are fairly nice to brush. Some colours have awkward coverage and occasionally the matt paints dry with a grainy texture. Overall I use them because they're the only thing I can buy locally without ordering and I'm happy enough with them. Xtracrylix is a brand I sometimes buy online to top up my range with colours that Humbrol doesn't match well. They brush well also, react best to water thinning, dry very glossy and strong and have some great looking colours.

 

Priming on the sprue... hmm. I avoid this because it makes building a pain unless you want to spend a very long time scraping and sanding primer from join lines, or enjoy your cement not holding. I do the opposite, build as much as I dare and think I can handle without damaging and paint without interference before priming. With planes that generally means I build the whole thing (I don't prime cockpit interiors because they're sealed off and don't get touched). If I do have sub-assemblies, I blu-tac them in place and prime the model as a whole, that way they mask their own join lines.

 

You can apply as many layers of different kinds of varnish as you please. Just be aware this will fill up panel lines and make doing a wash harder. Also, if you're using rattle-can varnish test it first. Even if it says "acrylic" on the can it sometimes has an aggressive carrier medium that can crack and ruin the existing paint. Even Humbrol's own spray varnish cracks their acrylics.

[Coutinho]

Wow....so much behind making plastic models!!! I would have never thought it.

 

I guess all I can do now is take the helpful advice from this thread and try it out. Most likely with Humbrol paints and varnishes first. 

 

To improve the appearance of panel lines, is it recommended to try and paint them black or mark them with a pen? I'm thinking that the paint can probably get very thick like Vlad has said. Maybe sribe them with something sharp?

[Vlad]

If you thin the paint and apply light coats you shouldn't obscure panel lines but it depends on kit. What are you actually building? There are a lot of wash tutorials around but it's something I've never got to work. I use a 0.05 mm artist pen on panel lines and wipe off any excess although it gives a bit of an exaggerated effect (which I personally like but others might argue is unrealistic). At this point there's no substitute for just trying things out and seeing what works for you.

[Coutinho]

28 minutes ago, Vlad said:

If you thin the paint and apply light coats you shouldn't obscure panel lines but it depends on kit. What are you actually building? There are a lot of wash tutorials around but it's something I've never got to work. I use a 0.05 mm artist pen on panel lines and wipe off any excess although it gives a bit of an exaggerated effect (which I personally like but others might argue is unrealistic). At this point there's no substitute for just trying things out and seeing what works for you.

That's exactly what I was thinking of doing Vlad. Using an artist pen to highlight panel lights.

 

My first model will be a Hobby Boss Easy Assembly Mig 3 in 1/72. So the basic white paint upper and light blue underside, I'm thinking of getting these colours in gloss from Humbrol. 

[Vlad]

Overall white paint... oh boy, good luck with that one!

[Coutinho]

17 minutes ago, Vlad said:

Overall white paint... oh boy, good luck with that one!

Now you're scaring me!

 

I'm assuming I'll need white primer.

Edited January 17, 2018 by Coutinho
Extra info

[Vlad]

Is white primer a thing? If it is I would use that. I'm not trying to scare you, just white paint has universally bad coverage almost regardless of medium. Not sure about the gloss but Humbrol matt acrylic white (and yellow for that matter) need something like half a dozen coats to look decent. Maybe I'm doing something wrong 

[Coutinho]

6 minutes ago, Vlad said:

Is white primer a thing? If it is I would use that. I'm not trying to scare you, just white paint has universally bad coverage almost regardless of medium. Not sure about the gloss but Humbrol matt acrylic white (and yellow for that matter) need something like half a dozen coats to look decent. Maybe I'm doing something wrong 

Hahaha I'm pretty sure white primer exists, I saw some mention of a Tamiya white primer on the net.

 

I guess I'll be trying the white gloss and I'll let you know! How hard can it be? I might regret saying that soon!

[Vlad]

Not hard, just a bit tedious! Good luck with your MiG!

[Coutinho]

Another question, is it ok to mix companies for primer, paint and final varnish?

 

For example, can I use Humbrol spray primers and final varnish, but Vallejo acrylic paints for the colour?

[Black Knight]

yes, it is very much ok

With some though, just make sure the paint is fully dry before putting on the next. Only a few paints will badly react and they are mostly the ones in the spray cans

[Black Knight]

On 1/17/2018 at 12:56, Vlad said:

Is white primer a thing? If it is I would use that. I'm not trying to scare you, just white paint has universally bad coverage almost regardless of medium. Not sure about the gloss but Humbrol matt acrylic white (and yellow for that matter) need something like half a dozen coats to look decent. Maybe I'm doing something wrong 

I usede Halfords White Plastic Primer on this Matchbox F-16

Before;

 

After;

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[sapperastro]

I usually brush with enamels, especially colourcoats, because I can get a better finish. However, I think you are trying to run before walking here; Don't overdo your first models. You first need to get some experience buiding the thing, and then get brush painting downpat. I suggest looking on youtube for 'quickkits', he is an exclusive brush painter, and has hundreds of great tips and walkthroughs of builds, and he often uses very simplistic ways of achieving great results. He uses both enamels and acrylics. And he doesn't waffle on and waste time in the videos either. A great resource for starter brush painters.

 

That being said, I would use rattle cans for white paint, possibly even red and overall yellow. All of these colours are dogs to brush with, white being the worst. Humbrol have a matt white in their rattle cans, and you could use this as a primer too if you are that way inclined.

 

Just watch those videos though.

Edited January 21, 2018 by sapperastro