New at this - some very basic questions

[jtrb]

Ok, firstly apologies for asking what are probably some very, very basic questions...but everyone is new at this once!

 

I've recently just finished my first model as a fully-grown adult and it's fair to say the result was disappointing. It was an Airfix starter kit where I didn't really stir the acrylic paint properly and generally did an awful job of it. I then really made things worse by spraying on some Humbrol acrylic clear gloss which then crazed the paint.

 

I'm now going in for round 2 and I'd really appreciate everyone's help on how to not screw things up quite as much.

 

Ok, so to begin, I HAVE actually given the parts a wash first this time around. 

 

For this build, I'll be using Humbrol acrylics (new ones, not the ones that came with the starter kit) - I know that's probably not the best of the best but it's what I'm comfortable with for now.

 

I've also got some spray acrylic plastic primer as I have been trying to read up on this. 

 

Question 1: When's the best time to use the primer? Should I:

 

a)Spray everything while it's all on the sprues
b)Spray everything when it's all put together
c)Spray the fiddly bits (inside the cockpit, undercarriage etc.) first, with a view to painting them first and then assembling
d)Something else entirely

 

Question 2: I'll be painting with brushes. Do I need to thin the acrylic paint first? 

 

Question 3: I want to avoid paint crazing. Is it safe to use acrylic clear gloss on acrylic paint, and if so, what might I have done wrong the first time? I did spray the gloss directly onto the model and possibly sprayed more than required, but I'm also wondering if my lack of washing, priming, stirring and thinning might have played a part.

 

Question 4: because I'm overly ambitious, I've also bought some Humbrol enamel wash because I've read that you can seal in the acrylic with the varnish, then use the enamel wash to add weathering detail, use enamel thinners for clean-up without affecting the underlying acrylic paint, and then finally seal in with the acrylic varnish. Is this correct, and if not...what's the right approach?

 

Question 5: what's the right technique to use a wash to add weathering...and do I do it before or after adding decals?

 

Sorry for what probably seem like really basic and stupid questions - thanks in advance for anyone who's happy to help.

Edited January 12, 2018 by jtrb

[Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies]

Question 1: When's the best time to use the primer? Should I:

 

a)Spray everything while it's all on the sprues - there's nothing really wrong with this, but it's considered normal to have to do remedial work on seams and joints so it will very likely need done again anyway later
b)Spray everything when it's all put together - if you can get the paint to adhere properly without primer on smaller parts, this is the way I would go
c)Spray the fiddly bits (inside the cockpit, undercarriage etc.) first, with a view to painting them first and then assembling - if you're using an aerosol you'll end up with a) anyway
d)Something else entirely

 

Question 2: I'll be painting with brushes. Do I need to thin the acrylic paint first? Normally yes. Acrylics can take more forms than any other classification of paint though and what's best to thin each specific brand is different. I don't use these so will let someone else give you the secret formula for something to thin these!

 

Question 3: I want to avoid paint crazing. Is it safe to use acrylic clear gloss on acrylic paint, and if so, what might I have done wrong the first time? I did spray the gloss directly onto the model and possibly sprayed more than required, but I'm also wondering if my lack of washing, priming, stirring and thinning might have played a part. Aerosols are generally dangerous to apply as finish coats. The propellant solvents are extremely aggressive. Some paints are happy to accept aerosols on top, others are not. Either experiment on scrap plastic first, or use a brushable clear coat.

 

Question 4: because I'm overly ambitious, I've also bought some Humbrol enamel wash because I've read that you can seal in the acrylic with the varnish, then use the enamel wash to add weathering detail, use enamel thinners for clean-up without affecting the underlying acrylic paint, and then finally seal in with the acrylic varnish. Is this correct, and if not...what's the right approach? This will work.

 

Question 5: what's the right technique to use a wash to add weathering...and do I do it before or after adding decals? Do it after decals. You will need a glossy finish to apply the decals on top of, then normal practise is to seal those in with another clear coat. Once that's done, weather it. If you weather before decals you'll have a weird looking result with immaculate markings. If you try to weather decals without sealing them first, you may damage them with the weathering products or process.

 

Sorry for what probably seem like really basic and stupid questions - thanks in advance for anyone who's happy to help.

 

Enjoy!

[Giorgio N]

Jamie pretty much gave you all the answers you need. I may add some personal views on this

 

1) When to prime: the way I do it is a combination of a, b, c and d ! Generally I spray primer on the large airframe parts after these have been assembled. Small parts are better spraid when on the sprue, but this will mean that the attachment points will not be primed. Some assemblies are better spraid when all parts are together, some parts are better spraid on their own. A good way to prime detached parts is to attach them to masking tape, spray one side, get them off the tape, turn them around, attach to other tape and spray the other side. Really here it depends on the assembly sequence of each particular part. Consider that you'll have to remove primer from any  contact area and that primer will be lost by sanding if this is needed to eliminate seams. Really only you can be the judge of when it's best to prime a part of the kit you're building

 

2) Generally yes, will depend on the paint though. Some paints are already thinned enough, others may not be so. In any case it's good to have thinner ready at hand. I also suggest wiping the colour from the brush every now and then to avoid accumulation of paint. Assuming you'll be using Himbrol acrylics, water can work fine enough. I'd suggest to look at so-called retardants at some point, these are liquids that prevent acrylics to dry too soon. Build another couple of models first though, if you're fine with water then don't bother, if you have problems we can go through these.

 

3) Again the most complete answer would be... depends. Depends on the paint you've applied and on the paint you're spraying. Generally a good quality acrylic spray paint soecific for plastic models is fine over a good quality acrylic paint. There are however a couple of things to watch for:

- every time you use a spray can, don't apply a thick coat. Apply very light coats, waiting for some time between coats. Better spray 4 very light coats than a single heavy one, A heavy coat may damage the underlying paint

- always give the lower paint time to cure completely, and I mean completely ! Acrylic paints dry very quickly however sometimes they are not fully cured even if they are dry to the touch.  If then you spray a clear coat on top it's possible that this dries faster than the paint below and this leads to crazing. Before applying the final clear coats, let the paint on the model dry for 12 hours just in case, give it even a day if you can.

Jamies advice should in any case always be followed: if you're not sure of how paints will react, try on a bit of sprue and see what happens.

 

4 and 5; nothing to add really

 

Wish you luck for your next model, I'm sure it will be better than the first.

[jtrb]

Thanks guys, really appreciate your help. I was actually thinking about testing with a bit of sprue on the varnish coat so I'll take a view when I see the result. Hopefully as I've properly washed the kit, adhesion will be less of an issue anyway.

 

Also, I've realised I've used the wrong terminology here - when I said 'weathering', I was really thinking 'panel lines'. What's the right technique - is it acrylic clear coat -> enamel wash -> clean-up -> decals -> final acrylic clear coat?

 

Also....how do I use the washes for panels - is it a case of getting the very smallest brush and using it to gently touch each groove, and then let it level out and spread naturally? Or am I using the brush to effectively 'wipe' all over the model?

 

Thanks again in advance...I've a feeling in a week or so I might be posting a picture that'll get a laugh....

[Cookenbacher]

@robvulcan's technique for brushing Humbrol acrylics works very well for me: thin with Windsor & Newton flow improver and apply over a matt primered surface. It's very forgiving. There are folks here that can brush paint acrylics straight on to plastic and have it look as good or better than a fine airbrush job, but they have more talent than I ever will - the matt primer gives something for the thinned paint to 'grab' and leave no brush marks.

 

 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Only advice i can give you is this. Walk before you run, in other words its great you want to do all of this on a model. Problem comes in when you do to much and it doesn't work out the way you planned/expected. Then you get frustrated and walk away from what can be a rewarding hobby. Its better to try one new thing at a time. So less chance for disappointment more chance for success. Every new model try a new technique, paint, or what have you. And a good goal to shoot for is “can i still look at this in 1 month ? 6 months, a year ? Then you will be happy. Things will happen quicker than you think and you will learn faster. If i can help with tips or anything please ask. 

 

Dennis

Edited January 12, 2018 by Corsairfoxfouruncle

[Giorgio N]

1 hour ago, jtrb said:

Thanks guys, really appreciate your help. I was actually thinking about testing with a bit of sprue on the varnish coat so I'll take a view when I see the result. Hopefully as I've properly washed the kit, adhesion will be less of an issue anyway.

 

Also, I've realised I've used the wrong terminology here - when I said 'weathering', I was really thinking 'panel lines'. What's the right technique - is it acrylic clear coat -> enamel wash -> clean-up -> decals -> final acrylic clear coat?

 

Also....how do I use the washes for panels - is it a case of getting the very smallest brush and using it to gently touch each groove, and then let it level out and spread naturally? Or am I using the brush to effectively 'wipe' all over the model?

 

Thanks again in advance...I've a feeling in a week or so I might be posting a picture that'll get a laugh....

 

Jamie's advice works for both weathering and panel lines, so just follow that sequence and you'll be fine

Washes for panels can be used in both way, as you say is using a small brush and let capillarity help you. The success of this technique depends a bit on how the panel lines are moulded on the model, if these are sharply defined it works very well. If they are soft then it may not work as well.

Another option is to slap the wash on all the model and remove the excess with a soft rag wet with thinner. This way it's also possible to reproduce the effect of the airflow on the dirt in certain parts of an aircraft, for example behind the hinges of mobile surfaces. Of course the wet rag can also be used if you only apply the wash in the panel lines with a small brush.

Personally I prefer the small brush technique as I feel gives me more control on the result, others use one or the other or both. I'd say try both and see which one you like.

One thing to keep in mind: enhancing panel lines can lead to nice results but also to weird looking models. If the kit feaures very heavily scribed lines, a wash may make them too prominent. A good wash should also be heavy enough to accentuate the panels but not so heavy to make them stand too much. Better apply light passes, if it's too light you can always add more once the wash is well dry