Bigdave22014 Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 It's a mix of pastel chalk dust - black, orange, red and tan. All mixed together it gives a lovely "rust/dirt" effect. Plain black also used to represent coal dust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 8 hours ago, Bigdave22014 said: It's a mix of pastel chalk dust - black, orange, red and tan. All mixed together it gives a lovely "rust/dirt" effect. Plain black also used to represent coal dust. Nice, effective combination and right for the scale. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted February 14, 2018 Author Share Posted February 14, 2018 (edited) Not got any modelling done, so just an update to explain quartering as mentioned in my last post. Steam locomotives work by injecting steam into cylinders. The movement of the piston rotates the wheel. So what is quartering? Early loco's only had two cylinders - one each side. If the crack position on the wheels were both in the same position (say 12 o'clock) then the rotation would be very uneven with rotational power being applied at the same time on each rotation (producing a surge) if they moved at all.. If the crack positions were at 12 and 6 o'clock on each side, then the loco would actually be in a deadlock and the pistons and cylinders would probably undergo unscheduled explosive disassembly... The easiest solution was to set the crack position at 90 degrees ahead on one side, so one side would be able to start rotating the wheels. When a third and eventually a fourth cylinder was added (between the frames), various complicated valve gear was added to regulate which cylinder got the steam at the right place (there always was this gear, but it got more complicated. You can tell how many cylinders a loco has by the sound they make: chuff chuff pause - two cylinders, chuff chuff chuff pause - 3 cylinders, chuff chuff chuff chuff - 4 cylinders. Edited February 14, 2018 by Bigdave22014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 This is al the parts required for the motion on one side of the loco. The parts that have the recess painted have been painted red and will be masked accordingly. I found that which parts are painted depends on the loco - so as always check references (or just choose which you prefer ) Everything was made ready for painting and was sprayed with that miraculous stuff known to us mortals as Humbrol Metalcote. Gods, I love this stuff! Every time I go near a model shop I have a look to see if I can get any (usually not). This stuff dries almost instantly but with a dull dusty finish. When polished with a cotton swab or a soft cloth magical things happen Oooh look, shiny. An added bonus, where you cant get in to polish you get a nice dull area left which nicely mimics dirt. I'm not sure if it came across, but I really love this stuff! I know there are many "metal" finish paints around, be they lacquer enamel or acrylic but for steel or aluminium I don't think you cab beat Metalcote (if you can get it....).  DISCLAIMER: I HAVE NO CONNECTION TO HUMBROL OR ANY OF ITS AGENTS, NOR HAVE I BEEN PAID/BRIBED/THREATENED WITH A BIG STICK TO PRAISE THEIR PRODUCTS IN ANY WAY. BUT IF THEY WANT TO SEND ME ANYTHING AS A THANK YOU I WILL ACCEPT IT 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 Not managed to get a lot done recently, driving a lorry in the recent weather conditions was..... interesting. I spent quite a while constructing double action brakes from LZ Models (wonderful things) only to find that the loco I'm modelling is fitted with, yep you guessed, single action brakes. Seen fitted here along with one of the side rods. Having fitted the brakes and brake rigging, I started putting together the valve gear on one side. Bit fiddly, but actually goes together well (if you follow the instructions). Ah well. On to the other side... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 SPOILER ALERT! Well, it's starting to look like a Tank Engine 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 a BIG tank engine! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCSeattle Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Trumpeter just sold another kit. Thanks for the inspiration. What a cool build. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 2 hours ago, JCSeattle said: Trumpeter just sold another kit. Thanks for the inspiration. What a cool build. It is a good kit, and goes together well. It's up to you if you want to correct anything though. Have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Moving on to one of the important bits of a Tank loco - the tanks! Trumpeter have moulded cross hatched anti-slip on the top of the tanks, but the real loco's never had this. So we need to remove it. Easiest way is to make both tanks and then remove the hatching. The initial attack was with the beloved SIHRSC, followed by my custom made sanding board (piece of old shelving with coarse, medium, and fine wet&dry paper stuck on) to finish. You can see a bit of filler to correct poor assembly, and hopefully you can see where the edge and the front corner have been rounded over on the tanks. Now a slight problem... The rest of the pictures I took have disappeared so I'll have to describe what I've done and you'll have to use your imagination... (I'll post another pic of the completed tanks when the paint is dry so this will make sense later...) The water filler cap was bent up and glued into place, along with the front access plate. The tool holders (for the fire irons for poking and cleaning the firebox) were bent to shape and then soldered to their brackets to add strength. The front steps were soldered to their brackets and again glued into place, and the tool holders were also glued on. These fill the gap between the tanks and the boiler. Back soon with the completed tanks picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Dave, a question about finishes; if you don't mind sharing, what type and brands of paint are in use? Is the red lead primer the automotive type? Also, what type of PE bending tool is in use? Thanks, C  PS -You are seriously forcing me to go against my 'big-classic-autos-only creedo' with this marvelous build. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 Not at all Codger, The red primer and satin black are both Halfords. Steel is Humbrol Metalcote. As for my bending tool.... Yep, 12 inch steel bars. A left-over from the days I built brass model railway Loco's in 7mm scale. Anything smaller I use a vice and steel rule, or needle nose pliers. I did get a bending tool once, but never got on with it.  As for tempting you away from large cars.... ye gods! I never thought it would happen! But I'd like to see what marvels you can achieve with on of these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 6 hours ago, Bigdave22014 said: Not at all Codger, The red primer and satin black are both Halfords. Steel is Humbrol Metalcote. As for my bending tool....  Yep, 12 inch steel bars. A left-over from the days I built brass model railway Loco's in 7mm scale. Anything smaller I use a vice and steel rule, or needle nose pliers. I did get a bending tool once, but never got on with it. As for tempting you away from large cars.... ye gods! I never thought it would happen! But I'd like to see what marvels you can achieve with on of these. Thanks Dave, great info. The simplest tools always seem the best.  I am just mentally picturing what a great model you're going to have and getting a case of envy. Can picture it on my shelf in a glass case.  Doubt I'm up to the standard you're setting here. Carry on and delight we viewers... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 Managed to put together the Compressor and Water-feed pumps  Beautiful upgrades from LZ models. There are also a couple of pipe joints/valves which aren't pictured. These need fitting and plumbing in. Hopefully tomorrow. While the paint hardens up I made a start on the cab roof Still a fair bit of brass to be added... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 Dave, are you using books and photos for reference? You seem very conversant on what these things had and where plus all the terminology. Â It shows in your work too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share Posted March 16, 2018 Codger, I am using the wonderful publication "Dampflok BR86 - Train in detail No2" by Wings and Wheels Publications. 144 pages of glorious colour photos. I am also conversant in "Railway", coming from a railway family and having worked on the railway for over 20 years. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 4 hours ago, Bigdave22014 said: Codger, I am using the wonderful publication "Dampflok BR86 - Train in detail No2" by Wings and Wheels Publications. 144 pages of glorious colour photos. I am also conversant in "Railway", coming from a railway family and having worked on the railway for over 20 years. Dave Others may disagree but I always learned that the best models come from excellent research and 1:1 hands-on experience. Â You are an excellent example. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share Posted March 16, 2018 Making up the vent control handles for the roof, and decided to solder them and share it with you. So we start with these bits: And these tools.. a 25watt soldering iron, scratch brush for cleaning, liquid flux, and solder. The Bakers flux is my preffered flux as it works on brass, nickel-silver and whitemetal (prewter). There are other makes available, some for specific metals. The solder is one I've had for a while (I bought two reels) and is an old tin/lead mix. Most solders nowadays don't contain lead. Use the scratch brush to clean parts before soldering. A clean joint will solder better than a dirty one. WHEN SOLDERING, ENSURE YOU HAVE GOOD VENTILATION. THE FUMES ARE TOXIC. Before joining you will need to tin the parts, this is putting a thin smear of solder onto the parts to be joined. Apply flux to the areas, and then with a small dab of solder run it over the metal to give it a small coating. Keep the tip of your iron clean, use the damp sponge provided with your iron/stand. Add a little flux to the bits, and hold them in place using tweezers. Apply the iron to the joint and wait till you see the solder melt/flow. Remove the heat and hold for a few seconds until cool. The iron and your work will get VERY hot. If you drop the Iron, or the workpiece - let it go, don't try and catch it! Let your piece cool and then remove any excess solder (I use old needle files for this, the solder will clog them up - don't use your best files!). The flux is acidic and will continue to attack the metal, so give it a good wash. Plan the order you are going to attach things, and with practice you will be able to solder small items with ease.  2 minutes ago, Codger said: Others may disagree but I always learned that the best models come from excellent research and 1:1 hands-on experience.  You are an excellent example. Thank you Sir. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 nice soldering work.  1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 Just to prove something is happening, the air compressor and water feed pumps have been added along with some pipework. A lovely coat of red oxide has been applied (I don't know why, but it seems to add mass to a model of a large object). I've also started adding the sander pipes. Â 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_farrier Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Wow she’s big! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Hi Dave! Â I'm not really a fan of trains, but I truly appreciate bloody good modelling skills!! Hat's off, Sir!! Â Cheers, H Â 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Some more pictures of the cab and boiler assembly in red oxide. I've added all the sander pipes, moved the compressor higher as I had it too low, and added the mounting plate for the upper footplates that go either side of the smokebox. To ensure correct positioning these will be added when I mount the boiler to the chassis. I've also added the cab window shades and handrails. One of the handrails was missing so I added some turned brass handrail knobs that I had in the railway spares box, and some wire for the handrails (Oh the memories of making brass loco's) Next up - Black paint (lots of it) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC2012 Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 22 hours ago, harveyb258 said: Hi Dave!  I'm not really a fan of trains, but I truly appreciate bloody good modelling skills!! Hat's off, Sir!!  Cheers, H  Me too, wow!! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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