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Matchbox RF-101B Voodoo


TheRealMrEd

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Hello everyone.

 

As I have never participated in a Group Build on Britmodeler before, I'm not certain what I must do. I have not "registered" or signed up anywhere special, and am not certain whether to post here, or in the regular  W.I.P., which I have frequented from time to time. If I am in error, please advise my next course of action.

 

But for now, I'll begin here. For some reason, I had it in my head that this build would start Jan 1st, so I am late to the party!  I had already determined to add my Matchbox RF-101B (kit PK-411, IIRC), because I needed a new variant for my collection of USAF VooDoos. I have had this kit laying about for decades, and as with  many other folks', it was definitely the lowest on the F-101 totem pole of builds.

 

That being said, I felt that this would be a quick, easy build, with another build in the books. As you will see, when I actually got into it, various gremlins reared their ugly heads...

 

To begin, the kit at first looked like this:

 

2v2uzHT42xfzdhW.jpg

 

I had long ago tossed the old "loose ends" box for fear of losing some parts. (This was to be prophetic, but not a salvation!). The fuel tank halves had been glued together, and almost the entire airplane had it's panel lines re-scribed, as was the fashion in the early 80's. I had decided to go with a made up cockpit, as the kit's was really way too simple, and again, I was going for an easy "quickie".

 

The first mod was to drill out the little light window on the left side of the rear cockpit, which was then opened to size with various tiny needle files:

 

2v2uzHTm5xfzdhW.jpg

 

Next, a piece of old clear plastic kit stand from the spares box was sawed up to provide a lens piece. When nearly the precise size, the edges were sanded at a slight bevel, so that the lens would fit down into the hole, yet protrude a bit above the surface. This allowed me to apply liquid cement only to the edges, and keep it off the lens face:

 

2v2uzHTSrxfzdhW.jpg

 

Later, it would be sanded down and polished smooth, as shown in the next pic. Meanwhile, using white canopy cement, I glued the resin cockpit tub into the right fuse half, along with some lead fishing sinkers (Figure "A"). (About 20 years ago, I bought a couple hundred pounds of 70/30 lead solder bars, as the old automotive body men used to use, for around $.50/lb, for casting lead soldiers. I still have enough left to skoff at the lead police!)

 

Figure "B" represents a plastic card structure to hold the cockpit tub level, while globs of white canopy glue were heaped to hold everything in place:

 

2v2uzHTVjxfzdhW.jpg

 

I decided to use an old resin F-101A cockpit tub that I had laying about. I also have a Revell F-101B kit to build, and since I had bought a resin cockpit set for that, I will use the Revell instrument panels, their decals,

ejection seat, control sticks, etc., on this kit, which will hopefully upgrade the kit a bunch:

 

2v2uzHTh8xfzdhW.jpg

 

Well, that's it for a start. Next time, I'll get into my boo-boos, and how I hope to solve them.

 

I hope I can get this "simple" project done by the end of February!

 

Later,

 

Ed

 

 

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Welcome aboard Ed, this is the first (and most probably last) Matchbox Voodoo to be built in this GB, so you’d better get a wriggle on as it all winds up on Feb10. 

 

Im really liking what you’ve done with this so far and although it’s been superseded over by newer models it’s amazimg how great these old Matchbox kits are turning out. I’ll add you do the build list once I get onto the desktop. 

 

Cheers and good going.. Dave

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Hi Ed,

 

modelling the old fashion way is straight down my street. You are doing a great job of it, boo boos and all!

Looking forward to see the next installment.

Nice to have so many Voodoos in the stash. I still have my eyes on the Revell 101B, but it has not cropped up yet. What a beautifully brutish plane!

Keep having fun.

 

JR

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Thanks Jean, I shall endeavor to persevere!

 

The first boo-boo is that over the years, and given my penchant (back then), for rummaging through all newly acquired kits and the goofy "never-seal" cardboard box, I just realized that I am completely missing the rather cleverly-designed kit part that holds the horizontal stabilizers to the vertical stab!. This piece (if I still had it) would consist of two molded, pie-shaped pieces, that had a bit of space between them to let it be captured by the vertical stab and the cap that goes over the whole tail part. (If you own this kit, you'll discover what I mean. If you don't, then just move along....nothing to see here). This special piece also has little cutouts to glue the horizontal stabilizers on to, assuring that the correct dihedral is obtained on either side.

 

In any event, I decided to make a pattern by putting a piece of masking tape over the pie-shaped hole, and then cutting out a template to match. I could then use the template for the other side. Picture below shows this:

 

2v2uzHTCMxfzdhW.jpg

 

In the following pic, Figure "A" represents the small pieces of card stock used to fill the alignment shots that would have assured the correct dihedral, when used with the missing part. Figure "B" shows the pie-shaped filler created from the masking tape pattern described above. This is the point when I found out that the pie-shaped piece needed for the other side of the tail, a non-scale feature used by the kit manufacturer to assure that you could not install the missing piece incorrectly and screw up the dihedral, was way larger than this side!

 

2v2uzHTLzxfzdhW.jpg

 

Another ugly problem was that on the real aircraft, there were little slices missing from the pie-shaped piece, top and bottom, to allow the whole assembly to rotate. On the real aircraft, you can see daylight here and there, depending upon where the rotating piece happens to be positioned. On the real aircraft, this is how the all-flying tail (elevators), go up and down to control the aircraft. Because of the incorrect  size on the right side of the tail, and nearly impossible sanding issues that would ensue, I elected to completely fill the pie-shaped "slots". Maybe I'll paint something to indicate the space, We'll see.

I might just take a dive and represent a "gate guard", where these holes are inevitably filled in for the static display.

 

As far as the next "surprise", see below:

 

2v2uzHTW2xfzdhW.jpg

 

Figure "A" above represents where the upper half of the back end of the intake duct is missing. I can't remember is the kit was moulded that way, or if I chopped them off in the past. The other thing missing is the secondary intake duct "fence", which I definitely DID chop away, years ago.

 

I will attempt to correct this by cutting a filler piece out of very thin card stock, shaped something like Figure "A" in the next pic. I think it is upside down in the photo, as the top half of the duct has a more pronounced curve than the bottom. The filler piece will mainly glue to the remaining back half of the duct wall Iindicated by the arrow) as well as all along it's edge:

 

2v2uzia4NxfzdhW.jpg

 

After the liquid glue sets up, this area is slathered with Perfect Plastic Putty, shown here before smoothing it out with a wet Q-tip:

 

2v2uziamrxfzdhW.jpg

 

Here, both sides of the wing assembly have been glued together, both plastic inserts have been glued in, and both intake walls have been smoothed on the first pass with the wet Q-tip. Additional applications of PPP will be used if needed. Many times, I get lucky and everything works out first time. But, as the saying goes: "Some days, you get the bear; some days, the bear gets you!"

 

2v2uziaTjxfzdhW.jpg

 

When all this is sorted, I will add new secondary intake fences, to replace the kit ones that I cut away.

 

Next the locating holes for the horizontal stabilizer halves have been filled in, and the left side sanded down:

 

2v2uziaS8xfzdhW.jpg

 

Next are shown both sides of the fuselage, to which has been glued the nose, the camera housing, the wing intake splitters, the speed brakes, and the wedges in the tail, along with the tail "cap".

Everything has been filled with spot putty and sanded. Note the difference in sizes of the tailplane wedges on either side:

 

2v2uziahzxfzdhW.jpg2v2uziaCoxfzdhW.jpg

 

And that is how she sets at the moment, waiting for glue and filler to dry, and dreaming of a greater glory one day....

 

Hope springs eternal,

 

Ed

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Hello all,

 

The latest installment in the RF-101B sing-a-long!

 

I added another layer of PPP to the intake ducting, and some more wet q-tipping (like cow-tipping, but less fun):

 

2v2JoNVgGxfzdhW.jpg

 

Then I started working on the duct auxiliary intake fences, basically curved pieces of flat plastic:

 

2v2JoNVWnxfzdhW.jpg

 

From the front, they now look like so:

 

2v2JoNVGqxfzdhW.jpg

 

While in need of more "sanding dust clean-up, they are almost ready for the gloss white duct paint:

 

2v2JoNVqdxfzdhW.jpg

 

Next, I masked and sprayed the canopy parts (forgot to spray the underside black first -- drats!). The windscreen has been glued into place. It will receive a little PPP smooth-in after it dries. I have decided to white glue the main canopy in place after finishing the cockpit interior. I'll decide later whether to leave it open or closed. The main problem with opening it is the lack of the little "ears"on the rear of the canopy. We'll see how it goes.

 

The canopy interior, again, is made up of a resin aftermarket tub, two slightly different F-101 style ejection seats from the spares box, (the kit seats wouldn't make believable chairs for the ready room!), and the instrument panels and their decals, along with the control sticks from the Revell F-101B -- replaced in that kit by aftermarket items:

 

2v2JoNVFyxfzdhW.jpg

 

Horizontal stabs (or all-flying tail) added via butt joints with liquid cement, sanded to hopefully, the correct dihedral:

 

2v2JoNVyNxfzdhW.jpg

 

Coming along nicely now:

 

2v2JoNV5rxfzdhW.jpg

 

2v2JoNVNGxfzdhW.jpg

 

Note that virtually every joint needs filler --- but only a little!

 

2v2JoNVrnxfzdhW.jpg

 

And finally, for now:

 

2v2JoNV8FxfzdhW.jpg

 

For  all you old, hardened veterans out there, please forgive the excessive photos of simple steps (in our eyes). When I decided to start doing W.I.P.s, I decided to do it, not to show off any superior workmanship (Lord knows much of mine is not!), but to at least show the newer modelers among us how I did it, and to offer a fresh perspective sometimes, on solving modeler's problems. I like to show the warts and all; that even reasonably accomplished modelers make mistakes or sometimes "do things the hard way", but that when working with plastic (as with wood), almost anything can be corrected or recovered from (such as dropped models, paint disasters, etc.). Coming up, it always irked me that while many would show the results of their efforts (I realize that modeling magazines have space limitations), they would often NOT show how they did it  -- an irritation that still bugs me to this day!

 

In any event, I beg your indulgence, and wish you all a very Happy New Year!

 

Ed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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This is really coming along very nicely Ed.

I for one appreciate the detailed WIP stages and also find that tackling some of these old clunkers and turning them into 'acceptable' replicas can be a very rewarding experience.

I'm the first to admit that it doesnt always come off as I have a number of failed & half completed projects that will never see the display cabinet.

Can you please explain what PPP means - I've never come across this before.

Also, your photos highlight some amazing rescribing - mind boggling in certain areas especially that tail shot.

 

Keep up the great work.

Cheers.. Dave   

 

 

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Hi Dave,

the PPP stands for Perfect Plastic Putty by Deluxe Materials. It's a fast drying white filler which you can smooth & or remove with water.I find it pretty good for some jobs.

20180104_013605.jpg

 

Your flying through this build Ed & thanks for the detailed updates.

Jimbob. .

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Thank you all for the very fine comments. Jimbob, you are precisely correct about the PPP. About the only place I ever use it is in areas where sanding would be tough, and I can usually get great results with wet smoothing. This stuff is NOT very suitable for serious filling or large areas, or where strength is demanded. It is however a great "cosmetic" filler.

 

Dave, I'm afraid the scribing is a carry-over from the olden days (think 1980's) when panel lines were mostly raised, and it was the custom among hard-core modeler's to re-scribe everything. I'll confess now, that this was my pass-time during many of my burnt-out years, brought about by trying to super detail every last thing all the time. I don't do that any more, and as a result, I'm getting more built and enjoying it more. I did however, spend many nights at the modeling bench, just re-scribing kits like this for future use. It was great, as I don't have to do it NOW!

 

That being said, this kit, as well as the Hasegawa F-101C kits, benefit greatly from the scribing effort. A lot of the modern kits have such fine panel lines, that after painting, there is no depth left in which to put a wash.

 

Ed

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Hi folks,

 

I've been very busy last few days, so haven't got a lot done. But, since she's in paint shop, for me that's ALWAYS a long haul! Anyway, here's what's going on now:

 

2v2Jvk3FCxfzdhW.jpg

 

Just a coat of Alclad II Grey primer, and a little more sanding on the nose.

 

Next, I masked off the tail bare metal area, and shot on a coat of plain aluminum:

 

2v2Jvk3dLxfzdhW.jpg

 

Hmm... not what I expected. So I start over, apply one coat of Alclad II Gloss Black Basecoat, let that dry, and then a shot of Polished Aluminum, again Alclad II. Getting there now:

 

2v2Jvk3ygxfzdhW.jpg

 

Now,  to tone it down a bit. A piece of 1/4" wide masking tape is used to mask the back edge of the panel line. Then a fine (for me) line of Dark Aluminum is shot over the front edge of the tape, well overlapping the tape, so that each panel is shiny toward the front edge, and darker toward the rear. This represents the rear aircraft's tendency to gather more "stuff" at the rear end, as the air rushes pasit the slightly raised panel lines. Sort of like a sluice box, where the riffle disrupts the flow and gold settles into the valleys between (sort of).  Anyway, a shot of this process with the moveable single piece of masking tape about halfway down the fuse (arrow)2v2Jvk35WxfzdhW.jpg:

 

Next the finished effort:

 

2v2Jvk3NGxfzdhW.jpg

 

Note: the real aircraft has tons of rivets along all these panel lines, but I'm way too lazy for that!

 

Next a piece of Parafilm M is positioned about where the rear end of the afterburner cans will set, to protect the previously painted panel. Then , I shot a couple of really light streaks of Jet Exhaust:

 

2v2Jvk3rnxfzdhW.jpg

 

It can be debated "how much is too much", etc. but I tried to err on the side of "less is better", as it was a lot of work to get to THIS point!

 

More next time,

 

Ed

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hello everyone,

 

Time for another installment.

 

Prior to really getting into the painting, several more bits much be dealt with. I'll begin by addressing the "afterburner" intake scoops on the lower rear fuselage.

 

2v2JU1m1GxfzdhW.jpg

 

As provided in the kit, they look like Figure "A" above -- little tapered boxes with no inlet opening. As seen on the lower figure, I have filed away a rudimentary opening it the front end, and shown at Figure "B", I've sanded down the backside of the kit part a few thousandth, to allow a thin plastic backing to be added, where the whole front of the intake will clear the fuse. The whole thing should be rounded on the inside and out to match the curvature of the fuse, but I'm not THAT dedicated!

 

In the next pic, one side has been installed, and the arrow indicates where the excess plastic "backing" still needs to be cut off and sanded:

 

2v2JU1mACxfzdhW.jpg

 

In the end, they look like this:

 

2v2JU1m7nxfzdhW.jpg

 

The next view shows more added bits:

 

2v2JU1m4WxfzdhW.jpg

 

Figure "A" shows the added pitot tubes. The kit did not provide any, but I was able grab the unused ones from the Fujimi A-7D kit, that I converted into the YA-7F. One word of note here -- some pictures show these "devices" to look more-or-less as shown here, but some pictures seem to show them more as angle-of-attack" indicators. Anyone with further information?

 

Figure "B" denotes the cooling scoop for electronics, also not included with the kit. Mine is made from a rectangle of thicker plastic card, 8mm x 5mm and tapered down at the rear, sort of like the rear scoops.

 

Figure "C" are the kit fences, but mounted slightly outboard of the position shown on the kit.

 

The next picture shows the pitot tube again, as well as the front scoop. Also circles are the vents on the fuse side -- on the left side a round vent, and two smaller ones:

 

2v2JU1mCCxfzdhW.jpg

 

I don't know how well the vents will show up on the finished model -- I'm just hoping that they'll hold a bit of dark wash.

 

The next view shows the vents on the right side of the aircraft, one rectangular and two smaller round ones (maybe slightly oval, but I didn't have a suitable scribing template):

 

2v2JU1mqqxfzdhW.jpg

 

The two smaller ones should be exactly atop one another, but I missed a bit. Sorry about that.

 

Well it's off to the paint booth. More anon.

 

Ed

 

 

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Thanks Stevej60, just trying for a decent representative type ...

 

Well, the model has been wending it's way through the paint booth. Shown here after bottom grey and free-hand airbrushed tan colors added:

 

2v2J9jnfyxfzdhW.jpg

 

My go to colors for the Vietnam era are now Colourcoats. I like the very tiny pigment; after a slight thinning, they spray very well. Also, the metallic areas on the rear end are masked with Parafilm "M".

 

Next, the medium green has been added, also airbrushed free-hand:

 

2v2J9jn6rxfzdhW.jpg

 

Next, the dark green has been added, using home made paint masks:

 

2v2J9jnY8xfzdhW.jpg

 

After a little touch-up here and there, she'll be ready for a couple of coats of Future, prior to decals being added. Right now, there are some "hot spots" from the airbrushing (I'm still not good enough to avoid these!), but hopefully, they'll all but disappear with the Future layers, and the final flat topcoat. We'll see.

 

Below starting to look better after two coats of future -- and the touch-ups. Next, it'll be off to decals!

 

2v2J9jnRFxfzdhW.jpg

 

Later,

 

Ed

 

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Thanks, Dermot!

 

Finally got some decals on her. The kit decals actually work very well, but I used an old Microscale sheet for the stars and bars, and fortunately, had a sheet of ancient Detail & Scale Formation Light Panels, which are the correct scale and color for the formating lights. (Word checker is determined that I'm misspelling "formatting" rather rather than "formate - ing"-- lol). I hope I don't forget to add the tape lights on the wing-tips, which were used along with the fuselage lights -- not provided in the it decals. Also, the kit decals are too "yellow" versus the correct "slime" green:

 

Here she is (still in glass -- will be flat-coated later (or possibly mid-sheened)).

 

2v2JuHiQ5xfzdhW.jpg

 

And the bottom side. Not sure about the correct wheel well colors. Most late-war F-101C's in camo usually ended up with the overall grey color used on the underside. Since these CF-101B's were returned from the RCAF and refurbished as RF-101B's, I don't know how they ended up. The inside of the doors will be red.

 

2v2JuHibNxfzdhW.jpg

 

Some of the detail parts are shown below:

 

2v2JuHiKrxfzdhW.jpg

 

I elected to use the wheel bay doors from the old, scrapped Hasegawa F-101C kit, as they are thinner and well detail. The kit own gear doors are pretty bad, fat and zero detailing. I will use, however, the Matchbox gear legs and wheels, as they are good enough. The wheels (above) have been given a wash of dark grey to pop out a little detail, without being overly dirty.

 

Finally, a rather poor  shot of the afterburners, which look much better in reality:

 

2v2JuHi1GxfzdhW.jpg

 

Now, off to the landing gear, and more details!

 

Later,

 

Ed

 

 

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Hi all,

 

Back for more flogging...

 

The main thing about many Matchbox kits is their lack of detail. Ergo, one would imagine that the way to up the Matchbox game would be to add more detail. At least that's my theory, so here goes:

 

The first thing is, I'd like to pass on a little tip. I'm not certain where I heard about it first, or when, but it's been a while. Kudos to it's original inventor,  whomever they may be!

 

Ending with the immediate loss of one of the add-on pitot tubes, as I was trying to install it. I had it grabbed with a pair of tiny tweezers (is one arm only a "tweeze"?), and of course, "bo-ing" -- off to neverland! I'd finally had enough. I dug out my trusty tin jar of Liquid Electrical Tape, and dipped the tips of three pair of my finest tweezers into the black sticky goo. I then took a scrap of typing paper, and wiped off all but the thinnest coat of goo. After it had dried, it looked like the picture below. The arrow points to a scrap of stretched sprue less than half a millimeter thick, that I was easily able to pick up with the treated tweezers, but it has the additional property of having a very faint grip, to help hang onto the part! Suddenly, no more lost little bits flying off into space. Of course, this fis is about 60 years too late, but better late than never, etc.

 

2v2JJkzA8xfzdhW.jpg

 

This trick came in handy as I have managed to "pop-off" and lose both of the original pitots, and I've had to make new ones, from bits of this card and spruce -- and THEN reattach them to the model.

 

The next thing was, for me, a new experiment. Making canopy seals for a model. You know, the often yellow or tan weatherstripping stuff that goes between the canopy glass and frames on some aircraft, particularly on the CENTURY series one like this one.  Years ago, I had bought a set of masks and seals from Canuck models in 1/72 scale, put aside for my Revell F-101B, that I will surely someday build! Anyway, I sat down last week and tried to order 4 more sets from Canuck Models, and the website says they were not currently available. So, I used the contact on the website and asked whether they would be available in future. To date, I have received zero response. So, their loss is my learning gained,. as you will see.

 

I cut some thin strips of Tamiya tape stuck to a piece of glass, and cut into tiny strips with a metal ruler and new #11 X-acto blade. I was originally going to do tape masks and then spray the seals with paint, but then I thought "What the heck... on the real aircraft they are sort of tape-like -- certainly not paint, so what if I made them OUT OF TAPE?"

 

The windscreen was a little harder, but I had been using a (for me) new technique off cutting out my own tape canopy masks on recent builds, I started with doing the same thing -- sticking a piece of tape to the model on the toughest part of the windscreen to mask, and then I burnished it down with a toothpick, after which I traced the really prominent canopy frame edges with the pencil. Then, I took the marked up piece of tape off the model.

 

I had a piece of thin plastic card that I had stuck Tamiya-like tape to either side for another project, so I stuck the marked up tape to that, as seen below:

 

2v2JJkzBMxfzdhW.jpg

 

The card is the white part, old tape and newer tape are yellow, and the grey card is simply for contrast ( and it happens to be a photographic neutral grey card to help set the correct white balance for the camera).

 

With a new #11 blade, I carefully cut thru all layers of tape and the card, following the outside of the pencil line. This was done in several shallow passes, making sure that the blade followed the same line each time. After the plastic card with tape on both sides had been cut away from the rest of the plastic card sheet, I then pried off the right side masking panel from the plastic card, put the tape onto the glass sheet, and cut inside the edge of the mask, leaving a continuous piece of tape, which was then applied to the model's windscreen, as shown by Figure "A" below. That is to say, I cut out the unneeded center part:

 

2v2JJkz6zxfzdhW.jpg:

 

This was then poked and prodded   into place, and then finally, burnished onto the model. Figure "B" above shows the other side mask ready to separate from the plastic sheet pattern, which I will save for the next VooDoo variant that I build, where I will only have to place the plastic onto some tape and then cut around it, rather than fitting on the model itself.  Figure "C" shows the tape seals laid individually on the rest of the canopy with individual strips of tape. When all done I will dip the canopy in Future again, and paint more Future onto the widescreen, to seal the tape to the model. If I didn't like the outcome I could simply remove the Future with Original Windex (ammonia), and start over. In my case, even though the tape is a hair wide, I remind myself that this is a Matchbox kit, and it looks a lot better than when it started, so I'll quit with some improvement, and declare a personal Holiday!

 

It will look okay in the final pictures, I think.

 

Next, another detail. This shot of an F-101B (left, below) shows a double-bladed antenna that mounts just ahead of the afterburner, on the bottom of the right side:

 

2v2JJkztoxfzdhW.jpg2v2JJkzY2xfzdhW.jpg

 

On the real RF-101B as shown on the right above, they have removed the two vertical antennae and their thin base, leaving only the thicker mounting base on the aircraft  Also, please note the wing-tip tape or "slime" lights on the real aircraft. These, I believe, were always used whenever the fuselage tape lights were present.

 

Below, on the model, Figure "A" shows where I added the same antenna base, of about 30 thou card, approx. 9mm x 4mm, then beveled at the edges:

 

2v2JJkzRvxfzdhW.jpg

 

Figure "B" above shows my wingtip slime lights, probably a hair long, and because of the decal film and the curvature of the wing tip, impossible to get to lay as close side-by-side as they should. The arrow shows the small little gear door from the Hasegawa kit (omitted in the Matchbox kit). In reality, this door should be just proud of the wing, but because my added Hasegawa gear doors had no positive attachment points, these are glued to the wing and the gear door next to it, to strengthen the whole area. In real life, the gap would be maybe two inches.

 

Below, a top view of the wing tip tape lights. Again, not perfect, but better than nothing:

 

2v2JJkzsUxfzdhW.jpg

 

Next, a view of the nose:

 

2v2JJkzP9xfzdhW.jpg

 

Figure "A" shows the windscreen tape in place. Again, a hair too wide I think, but better than nothing!  Figure "B" shows the replaced pitot tube, while "C" shows the nose boom , constructed of tiny tubing and wire. The arrow points to the tiny radar warning sensors, added to the camera housing on both sides of the nose.

 

Next, a little detail on the aft end:

 

2v2JJkzk8xfzdhW.jpg

 

Figure "A" above shows another sensor, just a piece of sprue. This will be cut to length when dry. Figure "B" shows the clear rear nav light housing, added and faired into the vertical stabilizer, above the rudder. This will be polished, then masked off, and the whole area repainted.

 

Well, that's if for now. Just a couple more details, a little touch-up and this puppy will be D-Dog-Dead-Done!

 

Later,

 

Ed

 

 

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The tape seals worked out okay, I think. Next time, I'll try and make them a bit more narrow.

 

In any event, I added a few more small antennas here and there, touched up a little paint, and then decided she's probably about as good as she;ll ever be, so I'll call this one done.

 

Since there was no place to set the model down on it's back without breaking off antennae to show the underside, please excuse the hairy hand in the photo!

 

2v2JJWmVCxfzdhW.jpg

 

Now, as I read and understand, the finished photos are supposed to be posted in the GB Gallery, so here's one more teaser, and I'll post the rest over there!

 

2v2JJWme5xfzdhW.jpg

 

Thanks for all kind comments, and for stopping by...

 

Ed

 

 

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Thanks gents!

 

She really came out far better than I thought it would in the beginning. I surprised myself with how well this oft-forgotten kit turn out. She was prettier than I would have guessed!

 

Ed

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