Robert Stuart Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 Your muzzle looks OK in those photos. so well caught there. If it is a concern, could put a cover over the muzzle - as they did here? (OT, love the carbine draped over the gun) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 1 hour ago, Robert Stuart said: Your muzzle looks OK in those photos. so well caught there. If it is a concern, could put a cover over the muzzle - as they did here? Hi Robert, I was going to do that if I couldn't save the muzzle, yes. BTW in the photo, the muzzle brake seems to be smaller than the one in the kit. Rearguards, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) Here's the mould: I checked the mould for shrinkage, which tends to happen once a mould is removed from the master. Sure enough it shrank by a couple of mm. I can fix that by re-fitting it to the glacis and then CA'ing a plasticard backing to the latex. So tomorrow I will be attempting to make a cast. I can have as many goes as I like. Hopefully I'm not TFL Badder Edited January 1, 2018 by Badder 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Badder .. Id like to do a mold of the front glacis like that in the future. What do you use if i might ask ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Very impressive project, as I had expected. Looking forward to seeing more. I hope the mould works out okay. Kind regards, Stix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 13 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: Badder .. Id like to do a mold of the front glacis like that in the future. What do you use if i might ask ? Hi CFFU I've used Trylon Latex Liquid Rubber for making all of my moulds (from Hobbycraft) and Hobbycraft's own brand Plaster of Paris for all of my casting. This is the first time I've tried taking a mould from a vehicle. It's worked well I think. Whether the cast turns out useable is something I hope to find out this afternoon! Usually I just drip and spread the layers of latex onto the master with an ice lolly stick (magnum's are best) It's best just to apply thin layers of about 0.5mm an let each dry before applying the next. You could make a 'dam' around your chosen area with plasticine or wood/plastic battens, then fill the area to the required depth, but if you're looking to make a thick mould of say 5mm the latex takes an age to cure. I didn't bother with dams for the mould above, I just tilted the hull so that the glacis was horizontal then added thin layers. There's 6 layers in my mould, just enough to cover and capture all the highest surface details, that being the mounting points for the gun travel lock. I've got to go and feed the horses in a bit, so I won't be making a cast until about 4pm. It should dry very quickly so I will know if it's been a success shortly after that. Hope that helps, Rearguards, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 2 hours ago, PlaStix said: Very impressive project, as I had expected. Looking forward to seeing more. I hope the mould works out okay. Kind regards, Stix Thanks Stix, Though I think impressive is a bit OTT! It's my first modification of a kit, but I think the result will be cool, if the casting works! Rearguards, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robw_uk Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 am confused, why the mould? whats wrong with the kit glacis (or have i missed an earlier post)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 (edited) As mentioned previously, I had to re-fit the latex mould to the glacis in order to 'stretch' it back to its proper size. A piece of 'foam board which is not foam board but something similar' has been glued to the latex. This will hold the latex to the correct size when it's removed. Having said that, I've CA'd the foam board to the latex and applied CA all over the latex. CA turns latex into a more rigid plastic-like material and would probably have held the latex to size without the need for the foam board. Now I shall remove the mould and cast the glacis in plaster. Wish me luck! TFL Badder Edited January 29, 2018 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 4 minutes ago, robw_uk said: am confused, why the mould? whats wrong with the kit glacis (or have i missed an earlier post)? Hi Rob. Happy new year. Probably I haven't made it clear. The kit's glacis is fine. But I am going to modify my Sherman to match the Sherman in the last photo supplied by Sgt.Squarehead. That Sherman actually has two glacis.... one cut from another Sherman and welded on top of the original. So, I could either file off the details on my tank's glacis (except for the MG embrasure) and scratch a new glacis and stick it over the top, or I could cut the glacis from my tank, insert a a 'blank' glacis (blank except for the MG embrasure) and then stick the original glacis (minus the MG embrasure) over the top. And all that seemed a bit beyond my capabilities, and high risk, so I've gone for making a cast of the glacis and sticking that over the original. Hope that makes sense? Rearguards Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robw_uk Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 ahhhh yes, makes sense... glad my additions are usually limited to adding stowage ;-) way beyond me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 40 minutes ago, robw_uk said: ahhhh yes, makes sense... glad my additions are usually limited to adding stowage ;-) way beyond me. If it makes you feel any better, I dropped the mould with the first casting in it and as the plaster was soft, it fell to bits. I'm now waiting for the second cast to cure. Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatfingers Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Nice work Badder. Look forward to seeing how the mould works out. Regards Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 1 hour ago, fatfingers said: Nice work Badder. Look forward to seeing how the mould works out. Regards Steve Thanks Steve, I'm just about to find out. Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 (edited) The tiny little 'lugs' on the mounts for the travel lock haven't survived their removal from the mould. That maybe because the plaster wasn't fully cured. I am going to try and clean this cast up to the best level I can. It may or may not be good enough. If it's no good I will have to think about scratching the glacis from plasticard. TFL Badder Edited January 29, 2018 by Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Stuart Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Could you trim the original lugs off, and replace them on the new glacis? They are going to be lost anyway ... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 2 hours ago, robw_uk said: am confused, why the mould? whats wrong with the kit glacis (or have i missed an earlier post)? Nothing, but @Badder's subject has two! 6 minutes ago, Robert Stuart said: Could you trim the original lugs off, and replace them on the new glacis? They are going to be lost anyway ... That's a very good idea, TBH I'd be tempted to make the glacis from plastic card, with stretched sprue for the MG mount surround and other details scrounged from the kit glacis that will be hidden. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 8 minutes ago, Robert Stuart said: Could you trim the original lugs off, and replace them on the new glacis? They are going to be lost anyway ... As I said a while ago, a plasticard glacis is still an option. If I do switch, then yes, I could cut the mounts out and 'plug' them into holes in the blank glacis. I wanted to try the plaster first as it saves me having to butcher anything if it works. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 (edited) On 02/01/2018 at 7:34 PM, Sgt.Squarehead said: That's a very good idea, TBH I'd be tempted to make the glacis from plastic card, with stretched sprue for the MG mount surround and other details scrounged from the kit glacis that will be hidden. Well..... Here's a 'test run'. Firstly, I carved a bit too much off the left hand side of the cast, so the plaster glacis is not wide enough. I also carved off too much just below and to the left of the MG embrasure, so there's a little gap that shouldn't be there. It's a shame I lost the 'lugs' on the travel lock mountings, because apart from that the other mounting points and locating 'dimples' are fine. All in all though, the principle of making the glacis with plaster is sound. Thanks for your suggestions people! I am now considering all of my options again. Badder Edited January 29, 2018 by Badder 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 Okay, I've had a think and I'm going to try scratching the whole glacis while leaving the kit's glacis as it is (unless I'm successful) I figure it's worth a go as I've got plenty of time to mess around a bit. I'm trying this option before the others as it is the only one that doesn't require me to butcher the kit. THANKS AGAIN TO ALL OF YOU FOR YOUR SUGGESTIONS. I STILL MIGHT USE THEM YET! Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Watching with interest, but you knew that already. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 Progress stalled due to a bout of 'illness-induced sleepiness' but I've managed to scratch the two mounting points required for headlamp and horn using a suitable-diameter sprue. No vices, clamps, rulers, straight edges, set squares, scribing blocks, micrometres, dividers, or Geiger counters were used, just a file and pin vise and my slowly failing eye-sight. And no! I am NOT going to show two pieces of carved sprue with holes drilled in the ends of them! Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 (edited) I've cut an upper section of plasticard to fit over the glacis, but haven't yet shaped it as per the photo. However, I've roughed out the armour plate that projects out over the differential cover. Here it is dry-fitted: Its hard to tell if the real thing is two plates or one with a bend in it, but whatever, there's a few bolt heads and a lifting lug to model. I might have something in the spares box that will do the job. TFL Badder Edited January 29, 2018 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I reckon the lower plate's made of two parts (you can kind of see the join and the bolt detail stops at the same general line), I think the lifting ring may be original to the upper part, could it be a chunk of M-10 GMC with all those bolts I wonder? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philp Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 This is looking fun. As to the muzzle brake, I don't think the tank in the picture has the muzzle brake. It looks more like the 76mm gun without a brake. I had only seen the older M4A3 76mm with that set up until I found the picture above. Phil 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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