Badder Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 8 minutes ago, PlaStix said: That does look a very impressive kit. Looking forward to seeing it in progress - hopefully before Monday! Kind regards, Stix You have to say this in a Jeremy Clarkson accent: 'The lower hull isn't the usual 3-piece jobby, but comes in many, many, beauuuuutiful parts.' And I'll be cracking on with that and more tomorrow. Rearguards, Badder 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 (edited) Lower hull coming together nicely. The only other Sherman I built was the Tamiya M4A3 with 105mm Howitzer, and that lacked proper sponsons and so had the 'see through hull'. In that build I rectified that with plasticard. With this model though, Tamiya have produced a multi-part hull with complete sponsons and so there's none of that messing about. The parts for the hull fit together absolutely perfectly. The assembly below consists of 8 parts - 2 parts for each of the side panels, the bottom plate, a cross plate and 2 casings for the drive sprockets. Work on the rear panel and the differential cover next. I'm going to have to decide whether to scratch the additional armour plate for the glacis very soon. TFL Badder Edited January 29, 2018 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 (edited) Okay, I'm going for this one: On 30/12/2017 at 2:11 AM, Sgt.Squarehead said: Uparmoured Easy Eight of 11th armored Division (Patton had discouraged the use of sandbags as improvised armour, so Shermans in his force often took an 'alternative route'). Thanks @Sgt.Squarehead! Although I like the look of the up-armoured Sherman in the first photo you supplied, it would mean having to obliterate all of the side details shown in the photo here, and all of the detail on the glacis as well. So I've counted that one out. The next choice was between the two-tone Sherman with the sandbag cages and this one. I really like the two-tone one. The sandbag cages though would be a bit of a challenge, having to guess on their dimensions and those parts not shown in the photo. Also, again, I'd be having to hide a lot of the kit's detailing with all those sandbags everywhere. The Sherman above is therefore my preferred option. The additional armour plate over the differential cover should be easy to make in plasticard. There are also the plates added to the turret, which I really like, and again they should be easy to make. Another bonus is that the 'star' marking on this tank matches those that come with my kit. And finally, yes, I can see the remains of whitewash too. It had clearly been 'winterised', possibly fully, so I can paint my Sherman up to whatever level of winter camo I like. I've just noticed a complication. I had thought that there were just two armour plates added to cover the differential cover, but actually the entire glacis has been thickened as well. So the headlights and gun lock etc have all been removed and then fixed to the added armour plate. Rearguards, Badder Edited December 31, 2017 by Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 On 30/12/2017 at 2:11 AM, Sgt.Squarehead said: Correction..... Have a look at the bow MG and the 'beading' that surrounds it? Now see how there's also curved 'beading' on the armour plate above it and that the two match? See how the armour plate has been 'rough cut' with a torch? Well, I think that the upper section of 'added armour plate' is actually the ENTIRE glacis cut from another Sherman and 'plonked' on top! Now, I don't have a spare Sherman to 'steal' the glacis from but I think I can get around that. Not so Easy Peasy after all! 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 19 hours ago, Badder said: BTW, can you tell me what the 'mechanisms' tucked under the left and right lifting lugs above the headlamp and horn are? I have them in the PE set but the instructions don't show how they are fitted, just that they go somewhere near there! I honestly have no idea.....Maybe @JackG or @AgentG could enlighten us both? 2 hours ago, Badder said: See how the armour plate has been 'rough cut' with a torch? Well, I think that the upper section of 'added armour plate' is actually the ENTIRE glacis cut from another Sherman and 'plonked' on top! I am in agreement.....11th & 4th Armored Divisions were both pretty big on this sort of thing, if no Sherman glacis were handy a suitably trimmed chunk of Panther would do just fine.....Here is Creighton Abrams' 'Thunderbolt VII' (markings and extra parts for this one can be found in the 1/72 Dragon kit, so I'd expect them to do it in 1/35 too): PS - Notice the missing (or worn down to nothing) tyre on the first roadwheel station.....I'd guess this is what happens when you weld massive chunks of other tanks onto the front of your own. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Nice job on the hull, I take it that it's like a tasca kit flat packed? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 1 hour ago, Sgt.Squarehead said: I am in agreement.....11th & 4th Armored Divisions were both pretty big on this sort of thing, if no Sherman glacis were handy a suitably trimmed chunk of Panther would do just fine.....Here is Creighton Abrams' 'Thunderbolt VII' (markings and extra parts for this one can be found in the 1/72 Dragon kit, so I'd expect them to do it in 1/35 too): The Thunderbolt would be the one I referred to earlier, though I wasn't sure of the name. I'm not sure which weighed more... fifty or more sandbags or glacis/armour plate removed from other vehicles, but either way the extra weight certainly had its disadvantages. I suppose though, by that time, the allies had almost complete superiority so the speed of their armour wasn't as much of an issue? Rearguards, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 I reckon the fact that he was on his seventh Sherman in two years might have been a factor in encouraging him to beef up the armour a bit! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 38 minutes ago, Ozzy said: Nice job on the hull, I take it that it's like a tasca kit flat packed? I have no idea what you mean Ozzy! I've never seen a tasca kit. But the hull is made up of all flat sections which come on a normal looking sprue with other bits and bobs. You don't get the usual single 'trough-shaped' part. There's a flat 'floor' and you build the sides, front and rear up from that. Not sure why they decided to do it that way, but looking at the internal bulkhead it's possible Tamiya were thinking of producing a motorized version, or possibly one with opening engine covers and a model engine inside. Rearguards Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 4 minutes ago, Sgt.Squarehead said: I reckon the fact that he was on his seventh Sherman in two years might have been a factor in encouraging him to beef up the armour a bit! Wow. So was he classed as lucky or unlucky? I read somewhere today that later Shermans 'brewed up' on average once in every 1.85 penetrations, which was actually quite compatible with German armour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 His luck was very mixed, he could loose a whole Combat Command one day, then turn the situation around and smash a Panzer Brigade to pieces on the next.....I like him (I have Thunderbolt VII in the stash, but I suspect you could have guessed that). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 (edited) The lower and upper hulls, diff cover and engine cover all dry-fitted. The white plasticard shows the rough positioning of the lower armour plate. It isn't the right length and will actually jut out more than this. Eventually, the 'chopped off' glacis from another Sherman (again made from plasticard) will overlay the vehicle's actual glacis and sit flush with that piece shown below. PS THE DIRTY MARKS ALL OVER THE PLACE ARE ACTUALLY DIRTY MARKS ON MY LAPTOP SCREEN, SO IF YOU CAN SEE THEM YOU NEED TO CLEAN YOUR SCREEN AS WELL. Edited January 29, 2018 by Badder 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackG Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 (edited) 23 hours ago, Badder said: BTW, can you tell me what the 'mechanisms' tucked under the left and right lifting lugs above the headlamp and horn are? I have them in the PE set but the instructions don't show how they are fitted, just that they go somewhere near there! Had to google, but looks like the maintenance tools for track connectors? From the site: http://www.theshermantank.com/tag/road-wheels/ regards, Jack Edited December 31, 2017 by JackG 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 21 minutes ago, JackG said: Had to google, but looks like the maintenance tools for track connectors? From the site: http://www.theshermantank.com/tag/road-wheels/ Thanks Jack! Yep, definitely a pair of those! Happy New Year, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Nice modifications going on here badder, love the sherman pictures in the thread too 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 17 minutes ago, Hewy said: Nice modifications going on here badder, love the sherman pictures in the thread too Thanks, though I haven't actually modified anything yet. And the pics are thanks to the Sarge. Happy New Year. Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 (edited) If I had the right tools, and the fingers that could handle them, then I'd scratch the details on the new Glacis - the hinge points for the gun travel lock, the mounts for the headlamp and horn and the beading around the MG embrasure. However, I don't, so I won't. I've considered cutting them from the kit's glacis and then fixing them to the new glacis... and that's still an option. But another idea... and it's a 'barmy' one... is to make a mould of the kit's glacis and cast a new glacis in Plaster of Paris. I know from experience that Plaster of Paris can be fixed to plastic using medium CA, so if the cast turns out to be of a good enough quality then I can simply stick it directly to the model. (having filed off the details there first) And as the glacis is 2mm thick at this scale, it should be strong enough to withstand any sanding that may be required to get a nice flat area of contact. So that will be the plan for tomorrow. On another note, the red thing in the photo below.... A fibreglass pen, bought on the recommendations of a BM member. I have to say it's the most useful bit of kit I've bought in a long while! I've used it to 'weather' painted wood, highlighting the grain, to remove excess dried poly glue, CA, paint, grease and now the 'plating' on plastic. My only concern would be the fibreglass dust which is produced. Be careful not to breath it in! I am wetting areas first before using the thing. TFL Badder Edited January 29, 2018 by Badder 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robw_uk Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 nice start. will watch as i have built this kit before.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 1 hour ago, robw_uk said: nice start. will watch as i have built this kit before.... Thanks Rob, I followed your WIP, not knowing that I'd end up with the same kit. Most helpful though. Happy New Year, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) The rear panel has been constructed barring the towing bracket which has a tiny piece of PE yet to be added. I've left the engine cover off for now. Below you can see the engine compartment which I believe Tamiya intended to either fit a motor, or interior detail. I've begun to apply layers of latex to the glacis, hoping to make a good mould for casting the new glacis. TFL Badder Edited January 29, 2018 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bull-nut Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) Nice looking Sherman you have there @Badder. Just a thought, as you have the plasticard already, could you cut the kit glassis from the upper hull and layer a piece of plasticard behind it? That would give you the extra thickness you need without going to the trouble of moulding/casting, and you could do all of the assembly with Poly. The removal cut wouldn't even need to be that neat Edited January 1, 2018 by bull-nut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 22 minutes ago, bull-nut said: Nice looking Sherman you have there @Badder. Just a thought, as you have the plasticard already, could you cut the kit glassis from the upper hull and layer a piece of plasticard behind it? That would give you the extra thickness you need without going to the trouble of moulding/casting, and you could do all of the assembly with Poly. The removal cut wouldn't even need to be that neat Hi Bull-nut. I have had a think about that, and it's still an option. I'd have to cut around the MG embrasure as that will have to stay put. The problem is that I don't really have the appropriate tools for removing the glacis, especially now that I've stupidly glued the fenders on! I will give the plaster a go first and see how that goes. It may actually be the best, or at least, the least risky method. Rearguards Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 My first boo-boo! A short time after gluing the muzzle brake together, I realised that the little 'o' ring in the middle was in the wrong position. It had hopped over the inner forms when I brought the outer parts together. So I had to take the assembly apart and re-position it before the glue (poly) set. Of course, the tacky glue ended up getting transferred to the outer surfaces and it all got a bit messy. Deciding it was better to let the glue dry and clean it up later, rather than making even more of a mess, I reassembled the brake correctly. Once dry, I seit about cleaning it up. It was too much of a mess for the fibreglass pen, and required files and sandpaper first. Eventually I got it back to something very close to its original state, and fixed it to the end of the barrel. DON'T ASK ME HOW, but I managed to snap the locating 'pin' off the end of the barrel and so had to spend ages making sure that the brake lined up true, and remained true, as the glue set. It's all looking fine now though. Meanwhile layers of latex continue to be applied to the glacis. Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) In between latexing, I've made a start on the suspension. Again I am impressed with tooling. Ejector pin marks occur only on the inner face of the suspension units where they won't be seen, and any seam lines are virtually invisible so I've not had to remove them. The only work required was tidying up the marks left after cutting parts from the sprues. Having said all that, this Sherman is going to be very muddy 'down there', so I'm not too worried about doing a perfect job. The muzzle brake looks to be aligned correctly despite the snapping off of the locating pin, and it doesn't look the mess it did now that the excess glue has been removed. Whilst I have fixed the gun and mantlet to the turret,, the upper an lower turret sections are dry fitted. TFL Badder Edited January 29, 2018 by Badder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 Looking good Badder, the muzzle is not looking to bad either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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