rob Lyttle Posted December 24, 2017 Author Share Posted December 24, 2017 Good of you to say so, Dennis. But look what I've just done!😃 Postimage Woohoo ! Could be on to something. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 24, 2017 Author Share Posted December 24, 2017 It wasn't a fluke. I can do it! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted December 24, 2017 Share Posted December 24, 2017 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 24, 2017 Author Share Posted December 24, 2017 Don't know if I can get the pictures I took on flickr across on to the new site, or if I just press on with new ones. Right now I'm taking pictures straight onto postimage. Feels like a minor miracle, but an unnecessary crisis in the first place. Onwards and Upwards..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted December 24, 2017 Share Posted December 24, 2017 (edited) Im happy you got your photo’s back. I agree about an unnecessary crisis. BTW the work looks very good so far. Edited December 24, 2017 by Corsairfoxfouruncle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 24, 2017 Author Share Posted December 24, 2017 https://www.flickr.com/gp/147147244@N08/d289Re https://www.flickr.com/gp/147147244@N08/sfTBT3 https://flic.kr/p/229bPea The flaps under construction. I had hoped to get them over onto postimage and paste them in properly, but I can't figure it out. I'll try a description of what I did, later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 24, 2017 Author Share Posted December 24, 2017 Better! So, the basic structure is, top and bottom flap pieces glued together, a strip of 1mm polystyrene fixed to bring the top out level with the bottom, and another strip applied along the leading edge. When well set, this can be scraped and sanded to give the aerofoil shape - looks like the old Clark Y section to me. Referring to the underside details moulded on the flaps, the positions of the structural members can be found - these positions are where the little blades will go that carry the other bit.... let's call it "the blade". 😃 The blade is a strip of 1mm poly with another little 1mm square strip glued along the leading edge. When set, the underside can have a string of Milliput pressed in and smoothed with a wet finger. That gives enough material to be shaped and sanded to that cute curly little aerofoil shape. You can see the blade is not full length- it reaches just beyond the outer pylon position. It's basically 5/6ths of the flap length. Well on the way already!👍 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted December 25, 2017 Share Posted December 25, 2017 Merry Christmas Rob 🎄 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 25, 2017 Author Share Posted December 25, 2017 You too, Dennis. Have a good one!🎆 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModellerUK Posted December 25, 2017 Share Posted December 25, 2017 Looks superb so far 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 Behold.... The Flickr Crisis has been SORTED! 🎆🎈⛅ 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Nice work on the flaps. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 (edited) The assembly of the flap structure is pretty obvious from the pictures. A strip of 1mm polystyrene about 5or6 mm wide can be heated and stretched to get a thin band for the 5 mounting brackets. I made 5 saw cuts on the underside of the blade, cut the bracket end at 45° and glued with poly cement. 5more saw cuts in the front edge of the flap and it's ready to go together. I used the Mk1 eyeball and trial & error to trim back the 5 bracket parts and test fit, and cut at an angle to suit the saw cuts. The geometry between flap and blade was done by looking and a bit of sense - the assembly (on the real wing) is rigid and needs to slot in to the wing structure. The whole thing is remarkably sound when dry. Looking at the end result, I think I should have made my cuts at an angle to allow for the sweep of the wing, but a good view of the structure under the deployed flap is rare. From what I have been able to find, I'm not even sure if the blade is an aerofoil section for its length, or if it is a bent strip of metal with a shaped former on each end! Now, fitting them to the wings..... That's another story...!😂 Edited December 27, 2017 by rob Lyttle picture etc 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 27, 2017 Author Share Posted December 27, 2017 No matter how much I look at the reference pics, I can see NO evidence of any physical connection between the flap assembly and the wing TE. The whole structure seems to be attached, and hinge on, the endpoints of the 3 under-wing pylons , and be operated by a mechanism in the middle pylon. A preliminary fiddle around with the component parts showed that Hawker's solution was definitely NOT going to work for me, here. Something with much more structural integrity was required in my hands! I came up with this... The two lugs fit in the TE and hold the flap at a pre-set angle. First effort, I decided I had overdone the maximum deflection on the flaps - that is a bit too steep, isn't it?😠 Made an adjustment to the lug angle on the port flap assembly, and I think it looks better. Once I'm happy with the fit of the flaps, I can re-assemble the pylon parts as required to meet up in a satisfactory way. Looking forward to (rattle can) painting, am I going to be better off spraying the flaps separately and then doing a final assembly?? That's without even thinking about the white markings/ decals on the Red Arrows plane under -wing.... You might be able to make out my efforts at creating that dippy stressed metal look on the flap top surface. So neatly and convincingly done by GW in his build! Not so sure about my efforts, but I had to give it a try!👍 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted December 28, 2017 Share Posted December 28, 2017 Hi Rob, Lovely, neat solution to the flap mounting conundrum. They look superb and yes, I'd go with the less deflected final position for more realism. Can hardly wait to see how this all looks under a coat or two of paint. Keep up the great work. Cheers. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 28, 2017 Author Share Posted December 28, 2017 12 hours ago, geedubelyer said: solution to the flap mounting conundrum. I wasn't sure how you managed that particular piece of construction, GW. Also, you finished the airframe and then painted? And what Red did you choose? I'm going to be using aerosol cans, in a shed, whether I go Red or Black gloss, so it won't be any time soon! But that Red on the Arrows planes is quite tricky. It's what I would class as scarlet. On the Orange side of Vermilion. But what that means in terms of cans of Car paint, I have no idea. I did see an interesting Ford Focus about a week ago - looked just about to right hue to me....! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 10 hours ago, rob Lyttle said: I wasn't sure how you managed that particular piece of construction, GW. Hi Rob. If I remember correctly I used metal pins inserted into the actuator cover tips and into holes in the flap parts. Also, you finished the airframe and then painted? Yes. I primed the whole airframe in black then realised I'd need a lighter base colour for the red to cover so re-painted in white (should have just used white primer) before applying the red top coat. And what Red did you choose? I'm going to be using aerosol cans, in a shed, whether I go Red or Black gloss, so it won't be any time soon! Good question. I think I used Tamiya's rattle cans. It might have been Italian Red but it was a while ago. I did use their gloss clear which went on very well and kept final polishing to a minimum. I do like the Tamiya rattle cans but wow, they pong! Definitely an outdoor activity. But that Red on the Arrows planes is quite tricky. It's what I would class as scarlet. On the Orange side of Vermilion. But what that means in terms of cans of Car paint, I have no idea. I did see an interesting Ford Focus about a week ago - looked just about to right hue to me....! Lol HTH. Gloss black would be easier to match I'd guess and there are some superb schemes out there but for me, the Reds were too iconic to ignore. Fits in with my best of British theme too. Sopwith Camel, Spitfire, The Red Arrows, etc........ Either way, you're doing some superb work on your Hawk and I'm positive she'll be resplendent in whatever livery she wears. Keep at it that man 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Excellent work Rob, those flaps and panels are spot on. If I remember correctly (not sure if it works on car spray) but for red coats using Tamiya acrylic I coat in light primer, grey/white etc then do a base yellow spray before adding the red. This really makes the red “ping”. Hope that helps. Looking forward to the paint going on. Happy new year fella. Johnny. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
224 Peter Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Rob, really good ideas in your story, many thanks! I've got one of those waiting in the wings, my plan is to use an after market transfer sheet for the 19 Squadron re-paint in Dk Earth and Dk Green... so it "fits" my 1935 to 1965 collection, the Hawk first flew in 1974.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 A little bit flexible on the date parameters then, Peter? Seriously though, are you sure about the brown/green splodge scheme? Although I did see pics of an armed one in some kind of light grey and she did look pretty good, I gotta admit!😃 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
224 Peter Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Well, it was painted to commemorate the first Spitfires issued to 19(F) Squadron in 1938... So the markings are "within scope". Let's call it a bit of a "work around". Hannants have issued an Xtradecal set, this link takes you to photographs taken in 2008 when XX184 was rolled out. http://www.valleyaviationsociety.net/19sqn_special_scheme_2008.htm I like it... I may have to make a matching Mk 1 Spitfire in the same markings! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 (edited) OK, just had another little"first time" let's see type moment.... Never tried these before - I've put them on the inside, as it seemed like a good idea. Wanted to try them out before any middle panel or any thing else was fitted, so I'd have a clear run at removing them from the inside surface if it all went to the dogs! There's a little bit of carrier just showing on the front (bigger) one but I'll see how it goes. A wash of Pledge Kleer might settle things, but I get nervous around canopies. I got one of these in the transfer sheet for my Voodoo, but I didn't have the bottle to try it out. I also didn't have a bottle of Decalsoft to assist (Ha- see what I did there...!?) Now, these little strips on the leading edge of the wings... I came across this sort of thing when I was building the Lockheed T33 Shooting Star 2seater, previously, and I think I know what they do. Fox4uncle and I were racking our brains over Why you would fasten a length of angle -metal to the LE, and someone chimed in with the explanation - It's to prevent tip- stalling. They reduce the wing's lift at that position ( inboard) to make sure that it isn't the wing Tip that stalls first! It's a Tip stall that drops you sideways into the ground at the side of the runway, just when you haven't a chance of rectifying the situation. So they're a common feature, I guess, on Trainer types in particular I made these ones for the T33 out of a couple of strips of pie-dish Ali. Edited December 31, 2017 by rob Lyttle 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Ive used microset/sol on canopies before. If they fog (almost never) you can re-dip the canopy in clear coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 There's a few other bits and bobs I want to make a stab at some time soon... (From Graham James walkaround pictures) Canopy handles Rearview mirrors Satnav gizmo, maybe with a cover There's even a clock or stopwatch on the deck And a compass top dead centre! It really doesn't do to go looking at picture reference stuff, does it?😞 (Note; I checked with Julien on walk-arounds- it's a- OK to copy pics onto your threads from there. Within BM, of course. It's our big shared resource- and there's a shed load of material there!) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 Also, I've just noticed that the corners of the front screen have got quite a curve on the inside of the frame. Definitely not what I've got on the kit part! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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