Zero Paint Diamond Finish 2 Pack GLOSS Clearcoat System

[Kev The Modeller]

My first post and its a question and some advice please, has anyone used Zero Paint Diamond Finish 2 Pack GLOSS Clearcoat System?

It looks good and has a nice little video explaining how to use it, looks to be the same as most other 2 Pak varnishes.
 

It mentions mixing only the amount required to do your job, ok get that. It then shows you leaving 5 mins between the 2 coats, possibly 3 now depending on how big your job is it could take up say 6mins per coat, that would be 18mins spraying and 15mins between coats total 33mins. 

The instructions tell you you've got 15/20 before it sets, how do you get around this time, if it can take possibly 30 odd mins to finish a job and setting in the air brush cup. Does it stay very stable for the 15 odd mins then just start setting or does it start setting straight away?

Do you just mix what you need for 2 coats just work faster?

Can you let the coats dry longer say 10 - 15 mins between coats and just mix another amount or is the 5mins a must? 
Can you just use cellulose thinner? 

Once set can it still be cleaned using thinner, just thinking if you over do it and it sets in the airbrush?

Sorry for all the questions I've never used a 2 Pak system.

[cmatthewbacon]

It's a lot less difficult to use than you might think from the instructions. But use a respirator and a spray booth for sure.

 

I mix it in a standard small airbrush jar... a bit under half full with resin, half that amount of hardener, and about 10% thinner. Bear in mind it sets quicker in your airbrush and starts to cure on the body faster than it does in bulk in the jar. So, I have ready another jar loaded up with lacquer thinner as well.

 

You do want about 5 minutes between coats, but really, it doesn't take long to get the first couple of "mist coats" on; you want them light.

 

Spray the first mist coat until the matt of the base coat starts to shine just a bit. Get the body under a plastic box then switch jars and shoot some thinner through the brush. Wait 5 mins, blow air through the brush to clear any remaining thinner and put the Clearcoat jar back. Another light coat and repeat the whole process. 10-15 minutes after you've started you're ready for the magic wet coat. Rather than write it again, what happens then is described here:

 

Once your body is cleared and under its plastic box again, give your airbrush a through clean, pour out the clear coat from the jar (I just dump it in the bin with all the paper towels that are in there, where it cures over the next few hours), and clean the jar thoroughly with strong thinner. If you ever find you have trouble spraying anything with your brush from the jar you use for clearcoat, check that the teeny-tiny hole in the lid that lets the air pressure in the jar equalise with the atmosphere hasn't become blocked by cured clearcoat. You can guess how I know this is a potential problem...

 

best,

M.

 

 

 

[Kev The Modeller]

Thanks mate that's great, a few more questions if I may please?

 

1.  When you say "another jar loaded up with lacquer thinner as well."  do you just mean to clean with, as I don't think you can slow down the curing process or have I got that wrong? 

 

2. "Get the body under a plastic box then switch jars and shoot some thinner through the brush" do you mean tip the thinner in from the other jar and clean out the air brush?

 

3. "Put the Clearcoat jar back"  I'm assuming you've got an airbrush that is a siphon type and has interchangeable paint jars?  Mine doesn't it's a H&S Evolution .4 needle.

 

4.  Would you mix all the clearcoat you needed for the job or mix each cup as you need it during the 5 min wait times between coats? 

 

5.  Can you leave it more than 5 mins or does it have to be roughly 5mins?

 

5. I'm planning on using pipette's for measuring and transferring, one for each part.  Can you use the same one for the thinner and clear, and can all be cleaned including the one used for hardener in cellulose thinner so you can reuse them?  My plan being once used to pop them into a jar with thinner/cleaner pump each to flush out and re-flush once the coating is finished, possibly do the same with the mixing jar, just trying to save waste and money if possible.          

 

 

[cmatthewbacon]

With a gravity feed brush, same principles apply. Make up all of your clearcoat and have some thinner in a jar to hand as well. Decant clearcoat into the cup (use the biggest option you have), spray clearcoat until the cup is used up (for the first couple of coats), tuck the body out of the way and then blow a cupful of the handy thinner through the brush. For the wet coat, you want to be working as continuously as possible, so just keep refilling the cup with ready-prepared clearcoat until you've got to the final "wet-look" stage. Then protect the body, leave well alone, and clean up your brush and storage jars. I've never tried using pipettes; I've never found the extra precision was needed and the faff was to much bother. If you do use them, I'd be super wary of cross contamination, because that way you can set your whole bottle of either part of the clearcoat! All I've ever used for mixing is a cheap airbrush jar.

 

You don't need to set an alarm or timer for five minutes, but you don't want to be much longer than that. The difference between 5 and 8 minutes probably doesn't matter, but 5 and 12 does, especially as you start to do that last coat, -- you don't want it to start gelling before you start spraying. The warmer your room, the quicker everything will start to cure, so allow a bit longer in a cold shed, but if it's a hot summer day, work faster...

 

best,

M.

Edited December 3, 2017 by cmatthewbacon

[Kev The Modeller]

Hi M

 

Thank you.  Can I just check I can use cellulose thinner? 

 

I'm planning on mixing twice as much clearcoat as I would paint, I'm painting motorcycle parts (tank, firing, tail) so probably no more than 20ml of clearcoat.  Hopefully no more than 5 mins to coat the lot, allowing 5 mins between coats that will mean I'll be at the 15 mins point if a 3rd coat is required, my concern is this 3rd coat mix will have gone off or started to?

 

I'm probably over thinking this but I don't want a dried up airbrush or buggered up paint finish.    

[Steve Noble]

You won't need 20ml of clear. It goes a long way. I usually mix one batch, 5ml clear, 2.5ml of hardener and 1.5ml of thinner, 9ml total product. That's enough to do a Tamiya 1/12 Suzuki Hayabusa kit with tank, seat unit, front mudguard, upper nose fairing and side fairing panels, 1 light tack coat and 2 wet coats on each. On the final coat add a little extra thinner and the finish will be like glass. I've never had it set in the airbrush on me and I don't ever feel that I have to rush to apply it quickly. Don't worry about the application, it's far easier than you might think..

[Kev The Modeller]

Thanks mate you've been most helpful 

[triumphfan]

On the curing time concern, the 2K will take longer to cure in a jar so will remain usable for longer. I believe the curing times quoted are for the product in its applied state.

 

Also, the mist coat is critical when applying over decals. The light misting seals the decals once cured (5 mins) and protects them from the dissolving effects of the 2K clear in a 'wet' coat.

Some decals are more sensitive than others so best to make sure the mist coat step is never missed, I know from experience.

 

Atb, Steve.

[Kev The Modeller]

Thank you Triumphfan, this will be my first use of a 2 pack clear coat just want to get a good handle on all aspects. 

 

Would you be able to answer these questions please?

 

1. I'm planning on using pipette's for measuring and transferring, one for each part.  Can you use the same one for the thinner and clear, and can all be cleaned including the one used for hardener in cellulose thinner so you can reuse them?  My plan being once used to pop them into a jar with thinner/cleaner pump each to flush out and re-flush once the coating is finished, possibly do the same with the mixing jar, just trying to save waste and money if possible.  

 

2.  Can I use cellulose thinner?       

[Steve Noble]

5 hours ago, Kev The Modeller said:

Thank you Triumphfan, this will be my first use of a 2 pack clear coat just want to get a good handle on all aspects. 

 

Would you be able to answer these questions please?

 

1. I'm planning on using pipette's for measuring and transferring, one for each part.  Can you use the same one for the thinner and clear, and can all be cleaned including the one used for hardener in cellulose thinner so you can reuse them?  My plan being once used to pop them into a jar with thinner/cleaner pump each to flush out and re-flush once the coating is finished, possibly do the same with the mixing jar, just trying to save waste and money if possible.  

 

2.  Can I use cellulose thinner?       

I use cheap plastic pipettes and to be honest I throw the clear and hardener ones away after each use. I suppose you could keep them if you clean them out properly. Just make sure you don't use the hardener one into the clear or vice versa or you could get contamination issues. For thinning I'm using Lechler 2k speedy thinner. Ive also used basecoat thinner once when I ran out of the 2k thinner and it worked ok. I've heard of people having problems when using plain cellulose thinners with 2k so I'd maybe not use them..

[Kev The Modeller]

Thanks Steve once again you've been most helpful.