Lish Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Hi All, I am attempting my first armoured kit. There are way more tiny parts and pieces that aircraft modelling. Seems like Tamiya extra thin cement is not the best option for parts such as headlight light protectors etc. Superglue bonds way too quickly, especially if you need to correct the positioning. What do use instead? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soeren Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 For plastic to plastic it is indeed Tamiya thin cement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arachnid Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 I cut the sprue off the runner and use that to position the small part,when it's dry just cut the remainder of the sprue and lightly sand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaubar Posted November 21, 2017 Share Posted November 21, 2017 15 hours ago, Arachnid said: I cut the sprue off the runner and use that to position the small part,when it's dry just cut the remainder of the sprue and lightly sand Interesting method. I use small but strong tweezers. The cement will bond quicker and better if you slightly touch sth else (trash-worthy and old junk plastic) with the tips beforehand (only works if both sides are treated with glue in advance) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gav G Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Here's an alternative method that guarantees the piece is glued exactly where you want it to be. Position the piece and support with blue-tac so that the piece stays exactly where you want it to be when you take your fingers/tweezers off. Try to ensure that the blu-tac isn't going to get glue on it. Then dab Tamiya Extra Thin at the contact points and leave it to cure. Remove the blu-tac at your leisure; I usually it over night so the welded join has completely cured. This also works when supergluing metal to plastic, although obviously the cure time is so much shorter. Apply the smallest amount possible with a needle or cocktail stick so that the glue flows by capillary action into the joint. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lish Posted December 5, 2017 Author Share Posted December 5, 2017 On 26/11/2017 at 19:25, Gav G said: Here's an alternative method that guarantees the piece is glued exactly where you want it to be. Position the piece and support with blue-tac so that the piece stays exactly where you want it to be when you take your fingers/tweezers off. Try to ensure that the blu-tac isn't going to get glue on it. Then dab Tamiya Extra Thin at the contact points and leave it to cure. Remove the blu-tac at your leisure; I usually it over night so the welded join has completely cured. This also works when supergluing metal to plastic, although obviously the cure time is so much shorter. Apply the smallest amount possible with a needle or cocktail stick so that the glue flows by capillary action into the joint. Thanks, I have to try this one out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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