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Missouri Armada P-51D Mustang: documents and partial scratch from the Tamiya 1/48 kit


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I have scratchbuilt the set spring/ rod going to the pedals that we could see on the docs 79 and especially 80 above. A 0,2 mm diameter tin wire is wrapping a 0,3 mm brass tube. The rod was cut in O,2 mm thickness acetate sheet. After painting (Alu XF 16) and drying, these sets will be put in place.

 

Ib48XY.jpg

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Looking really good. 

 

I decided not to add those springs because I was struggling with how to represent them and fix them. There are wires running to the rear which would have complicated things. 

 

In the radiator area I've found that when the fuselage is brought together I get large gaps along the sides of the air scoop outlet duct where the cockpit floor section mates with the fuselage sides. Are you seeing this too?

 

How are you planning to deal with these? I'm thinking of painting the radiator, fitting it and pre-masking it before installing into the fuselage. I can then putty / sand and clean up the gaps, paint with the rest of the fuselage and unmask the radiator when I'm done.

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8 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

You're doing a splendid job with the cockpit, there's more detail in there ( especially behind the seat ) than in most 1/32 models.

Thanks John! I have chosen to take my time indeed and try to represent a quite accurate cockpit, even if, of course, I had to deal with the small scale.

 

7 hours ago, Squibby said:

I decided not to add those springs because I was struggling with how to represent them and fix them

Thanks to you too, Squibby. Indeed, it won't be easy to fix these small parts. More soon...

 

7 hours ago, Squibby said:

In the radiator area I've found that when the fuselage is brought together I get large gaps along the sides of the air scoop outlet duct where the cockpit floor section mates with the fuselage sides. Are you seeing this too?

 

I am not sure I see what you mean. When I put my cockpit in the half fuselage, I have small gaps (not large). But maybe you mean somewhere else... Can you take a photo with an arrow  to show where you get these large gaps?

I take advantage of your comment to add a pic:

 

Fm1JO5.jpg

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On the 3 docs below, a detail I had missed, this squarre hole in the floor left side, in which a cable is running:

IUlFjc.png

 

RbvVRD.png

 

FoTzuk.png

 

fqKMBX.png

 

Furthermore, the doc 82 shows that my spring and the rod (pic 65 above) were too long (both about 7 mm), I will have to redo these sets with a lenght of about 4,5 mm max.

 

Thanks again to Antonio for the new docs sent by email that allowed me to see this detail...

Edited by Olivier de St Raph
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I have created a slot on the left side of the floor, as we can see on the docs above. I have removed temporary the front panel of A 17 and the dashboard in order to drill a 0,4 mm hole in the front side of left panel, in which a 0,3 mm rod has been introduced. And then cut in waste PE the vertical rod, finally glued at the bottom of the 0,3 mm rod. 

Furthermore, I have renonced to the two-color joystick bellows, and used only a lightened Olive Drab, with finally lights and shadows unlike what I had first done. I prefer it like that.

 

3VLGWS.jpg

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Phew! As I said above, I have redone my set springs/ rods too long. I have modified (and improved) my method, using for the flat rods PE metal sprues, as for the vertical one of my last post (pic 67). Inserting and rolling the tiny (0,2 mm thick) tin wire in the small holes was very delicate.

Then a small drop of thick cyano was brought on the sides of the PE pedals, and the sets gently placed there:

 

np31R5.jpg

 

My dashboard has been reinstalled :

x5T2f8.jpg

 

Still 1 or 2 cables running on both sides of the floor, the A17 front panel to paint IG and to restick, and this time, sure, my 1st step will be over...

oEJg2c.jpg

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Hi Antonio,

you are right, they are a bit oversized but I don't think I will redo them one more time. Considering the small scale, it is not a big problem imho. More, I have weathered them with Vallejo Black Grey, as we can see them on the doc. 46 p. 8,  and so they will look thinner and more discreet. 

That said, I will remember the idea of the guitar string, it is a good idea to which I had not thought, even if it would not allow to insert the hook in the rod's hole, like I did. Do you know what diameter it is? (I am not a guitar player, only a little bit of piano ;))

Cheers

Olivier

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Hello Olivier! Been away for a bit. After the site seemed to have crashed, it took me a long time to realize it was back up and I had to do a bunch of things to enable me to get back in.

 

Anyway, I just caught up and am astounded at your perseverence and skill in achieving this level of detail. Well done sir! I will continue to watch with interest.

 

Andy

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Thank you so much Andy! Glad to see you are back again in the thread ;)

I have begun working on the left panel, removing some original elements in order to use some of the Eduard PE parts. But, as for the cockpit, the scratch will be necessary for many parts...

Here is a first step. Of course, there is still a lot to do...

 

ObNIY7.jpg

 

 

Here is a double enlargement (2 different views) of the quadrant friction control, that will be useful to represent this complex part:

VOnJ03.png

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Slow progress. The Eduard PE part 1 was just placed without cement (dry fit) to check. There is a problem with the IG in this set for Tamiya, I will have to paint with care around the labels and mentions in the right IG, with a mix of Vallejo paints (65% 953, 32% 922 and 3% 950). Furthermore, I have cut a portion of this part, because I prefer the Tamiya version here.

I have scratchbuilt the map storing behind the small bag. I won't use the Eduard part 37 on this bag, not realistic imho.

 

More soon...

hxEORN.jpg

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That definitely looks more like zinc chromate than interior green but you should be able to cut some masking/scotch tape masks to cover the placards while repainting.I’m with Andy on your perseverance and skill.

 

Cheers

 

John

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I followed the excellent hint of John and applied first a base coat of IG with my airbrush, masking the labels and mentions, after having glued the Eduard PE part 1. I used then the Vallejo mix above to complete this base coat. 

Then, I have begun painting the small bag (mix of 820 and 977 Vallejo) and the signal pistol mount (mix of 864 and 997 Vallejo). The latter color was used too for the zipper on the small bag (do you know what this bag was used for?)

More soon...

 

 

HQORYi.jpg

 

 

P.S: I would like to represent a map (like the one below) in the storing. What do you recommend? I am not familiar with virgin decals. The few trials I made previously were not very encouraging...

 

63v03R.png

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On 14/01/2018 at 09:33, Olivier de St Raph said:

The radiator A7 was painted black (XF1) and then a dry brush technique with enamel XF16 has been applied with a flat brush. I am wondering what color should be applied on the underbody (red arrow). We know that the A6 part (step 6) will get the black and white identification strips, but this underbody? Medium Sea Grey, like the rest of the underbody?

 

FYuLUI.jpg

 

I found the answer to this question here (1000 thanks to Antonio again!):

xBJjqY.png

 

So, the interior color is Chromate Yellow, but the rear portion of this part will be black (invasion strip).

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12 hours ago, Olivier de St Raph said:

do you know what this bag was used for?

One more time, I quote myself to bring the answer to my own question. The doc 58 mentions:  "flare cartridge pouch" for the flare gun. These items could be used by the pilot to give his position for search and rescue if he had jumped out of the aircraft with his parachute, I suppose.

rdDic1.png

 

N.B: this enlargement will be useful too for me to get a convincing "flare cartridge pouch"...

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Really impressive work. How did you represent the folds on the headrest cushion? You mentioned the "JMV method", can you explain a bit more?

 

Sorry, if you've already explained, I've read through the thread but might have missed it.

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1 hour ago, matto21 said:

How did you represent the folds on the headrest cushion? You mentioned the "JMV method", can you explain a bit more?

Sure I can. JMV refers to Juan Manuel Villalba, that I often mentioned in the thread. I learnt a lot from him, and we have become friends.

I allow myself to post here a JMV tuto (because it is public) in which you will see how he creates folds and 3D effect by adding some wrinkles (rat tail file, fe) and then by painting flat black lines and finally light grey ones under the black ones (Vallejo acrylics).

rRRClO.jpg

 

I used the same technique to create folds on the headrest cushion.

 

P.S: I recall that Juan made a great DVD about the P-51D Missouri Armada 1/48 Tamiya. I highly recommend this DVD to anyone interested by aircraft modelling, especially if you intend to build the P-51D...

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New slow progress on my left panel:

1- walls missing on the Tamiya kit in the radio compartment added (scratch)

2- Shadows - with a wash applied (Brown Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color) - and lights  (Vallejo acrylics) to outline the walls and other details

3- Mad added (HQ impression of doc. 85 on an ordinary paper)

4- Scraping (with care) of the painted PE Eduard here, to get the metal look (on the rivets too)

5- Detail added (scratch)

6- Switches added and radiator controls painted

7- Throttle added (this part is in progress)

cWvry8.jpg

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A little tuto (and questions...) about this area.

We have both sides cockpit fluorescent lights, but on the left doc, it is mounted on the canopy, while it is mounted on a plate fixed on the front left side on the 2 other docs. I wonder if this plate (?) was present on WWII P-51D, or if the lights were fixed on the canopy like the left picture shows... Antonio (or someone else), come to my aid, please!

 

nNVkam.png

 

Still another version of this area:

ZhNiUy.png

 

Another pic (from which the right picture on doc 87 is taken), showing the dashboard and partially the left and right panels. We can see the 2nd fluo light on right side (arrow 2), but also, notice that round joint (arrow 1), while the edges are squarred on the Tamiya (and probably the other brands too) kit:

Gvjoxr.png

 

I will try to represent this round edge on my build.

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Thanks Antonio, I agree with you. My fluo lights will not be fixed on the canopy post. All our docs seem to confirm that it was fixed inside the left front panel (except the left one on doc. 87).

And now a new slow progress:

1- the outside part of the Eduard PE: the small holes had been hollowed a bit more before cementing. The natural metal appears but this gold color is imho not correct, I will apply an alu mat on it

2- I first thought I would use a rubber small joint to represent the rounded shape, but finally, I just scraped the polystyrene with my triangular blade and it is now acceptable (I will try to round it a bit more however)

On this joint and on the 2 small reliefs, I applied the 994 Dark Grey Vallejo to enhance these elements on the black (950) part.

3- We have 2 versions of the area where the IG is replaced by black. I have chosen this one, unlike the Tamiya instructions sheet.

GmnUAP.jpg

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