alecras234 Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Hi i've built an airfix King Tiger tank and i've spent the whole day painting it a pale brown colour. The paint wouldn't stick after the first coat but after three or four coats the paint stuck and looks ok but there are areas where the paint won't stick, im still piling coats of paint on. What is wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hoffmanly Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 What paint are you using, are you using an airbrush, and what primer did you use beforehand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecras234 Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 acrylic brushpainting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hoffmanly Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 I have this problem when I use Mig's cremeweiss paint through my airbrush, try cleaning your brushes thoroughly, try wiping down the surface before painting, and finally, try shaking the paint(s) thoroughly beforehand, or try a different batch of that paint(s). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soeren Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 How long did you leave the paint cure after applying a layer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecras234 Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 10 minutes between paint coats. Should i give it a coat of varnish and once thats dry go over with another coat of brown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soeren Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 (edited) Well to my experience that is way too short in time. Always remember, the paint contains the thinner. When the resin is not cured properly you will alway resuspend the paint. Either use a hairdryer or let your coats cure for a few hours. Airbrushing has less mechanic force so you can apply layers earlier. But wiht a paint brush you always work into the still not solid paint. It iss not a problem if you intend to work in wet, but that is a completely different technique and works with stippling or short strokes. Varnish wouldnt help you here and would not be a good idea, as it is paint too and would have to cure as well. Better you take your time.... If you still wanna work on that kit, take another piece of it to paint. Edited November 2, 2017 by Soeren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 The VERY FIRST JOB would be to soak the sprues in warm, not hot, water with some washing up liquid in it. Give it 10 mins or so and then rinse. The plastic will usually have a 'release agent' on it which is used in the manufacturing process and this can prevent paint adhesion. BTW NEVER USE A HAIRDRIER TO SPEED UP THE DRYING PROCESS!!! You may dry the top layer, but it could still be 'wet' underneath and this will stay tacky long after it would if you had let it dry naturally. This can cause problems if you are doing further treatments. And in the worst case scenario, excessive heat could melt your model! I know, I've done it! Finally, you might find it 10 times easier to brush paint with enamels. Rearguards, Badder 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcoat2966 Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 I think Bader has hit the nail on the head there - release agent. I have always with a very very soft brush was my final in warm water with a very small drop of washing up liquid. Plus grease and crud from your hands during the build. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 I use IPA and give my kits a wipe down prior to paint. The alcohol eats the grease and it dries pretty quick 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Squarehead Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 Are you by any chance using Tamiya paints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcoat2966 Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 4 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: I use IPA and give my kits a wipe down prior to paint. The alcohol eats the grease and it dries pretty quick That’s seems like a good idea. I have a couple of bottles of that for washer fluid in the car. I’ll give that a try on which of mine makes it to paint stage first....😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 The local pharmacy and walmart both sell large bottles for like $.50-$.70 now and again. I just buy a couple as i also use it for my medical needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcoat2966 Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 You can’t beat Walmart. That’s one place I miss now back in the UK...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 39 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: I use IPA and give my kits a wipe down prior to paint. The alcohol eats the grease and it dries pretty quick I prefer detergent for cleaning the sprues, but I confess to using Wadworth's 6X, or Old Speckled Hen as solvents for such things as Humbrol Weathering Powders and PVA glue, for wetting a painted area of groundwork in a diorama in preparation for an acrylic ink wash, and even as the first 'blow through' when cleaning out my airbrush! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 48 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: I use IPA and give my kits a wipe down prior to paint. Ah, I thought the IPA stood for India Pale Ale! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcoat2966 Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 Good one Badder......😅😂 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 That works as well Badder. Truthfully I almost never wash sprues prior to a build, unless i feel or see something. Sometimes if a kit is secondhand i might wash parts. I Usually skip the step even with resin because im going to grease it up handling it anyway. I use a 3 glue system when building that never fails so i dont worry about it. The only problem ive ever come across is with Wolfpack resin. My normal CA just beaded of th surface of it even after washing. I use CA GEL for Wolfpack resin and others now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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