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IBG 1/35 Bedford QLR


tbell

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Hi folks,

Just finished the IBG Bedford QLR with PART and Eduard photoetch and Panzer Art wheels. Tamiya acrylics with oils and pigments weathering. Constructive criticism welcome!

M0dQ6gD.jpg

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Edited by tbell
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Always better than 'destructive criticism' I suppose!:D

 

Superb job!!!!!

 

I love the colours used on the engine block and the wooden work surfaces in the back, but also love the radio set, the tyres, chassis, body work, camo.... oh all right, I love all of it!

 

A question on the wooden work surfaces though... is that painted on or some kind of applied veneer? Cos if that's painted on I think you deserve an award for the 'best hand-painted wood grain ever'.

 

Reargaurds,

Badder

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Thanks all for the kind words!

 

17 hours ago, Badder said:

A question on the wooden work surfaces though... is that painted on or some kind of applied veneer?

The wood finish is simply artists oil paint on top of Tamiya XF15 Flesh, a technique that I honed on WWI aircraft models. I put a dab of oil paint on a piece of corrugated cardboard for about 30 min to draw out the excess linseed oil and then mix it with a bit of drying medium (stand oil in this case). I brush a thin coat of the oil paint on the piece and then create the grain by dragging it with a clean rake brush. The softer the brush, the finer the grain, so you can use this technique in any scale. It's workable for several hours (takes a couple of days to dry), so you can mess about with it until you have it just so.

 

udylPZa.jpg

Edited by tbell
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5 hours ago, tbell said:

I put a dab of oil paint on a piece of corrugated cardboard for about 30 min to draw out the excess linseed oil and then mix it with a bit of drying medium (stand oil in this case)

excellent description and very effective  effect Tony.

I was puzzled at the term "stand oil" but a quick google

http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1252

Quote

Stand oil is sun or heat thickened Linseed Oil. It is quite thick - viscosity of thin honey. If used in painting, it will not darken over time the way that pure linseed will. It also helps in the formation of a more enamel-like surface than straight linseed.

Not noticed it when looking at oil paint, so though maybe the link would help others.. 

 

any particular oil colours,   what did you use above ?

 

and, stunning model overall too.  

 

cheers

T

Edited by Troy Smith
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19 minutes ago, Troy Smith said:

any particular oil colours,   what did you use above ?

I generally wing it with the exact mix. IIRC, I used Burnt Sienna with a touch of Burnt Umber. Other shades I use are Yellow Ochre, Raw Umber and Naples Yellow (for blonde wood).

 

I also like to use oils for leather. The technique is exactly the same except instead of streaking, I stipple with a soft, dry brush.

 

UGq3sE3.jpg

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2 hours ago, tbell said:

 

 

UGq3sE3.jpg

PLEASE TELL ME THAT'S AT LEAST 1/24th AND HOPEFULLY 1/16th SCALE!!????

 

If that's 1/35th scale, I'm giving up!

 

Reaguards,

Badder.

 

ps. Thanks for the explanation on painting the wood. I've seen 'how to' videos, but they were 'large scale' demonstrations for ease of teaching. I've never seen it done so stunningly well with 1/35th

 

 

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1 hour ago, Badder said:

PLEASE TELL ME THAT'S AT LEAST 1/24th AND HOPEFULLY 1/16th SCALE!!????

 

If that's 1/35th scale, I'm giving up!

 

Reaguards,

Badder.

 

ps. Thanks for the explanation on painting the wood. I've seen 'how to' videos, but they were 'large scale' demonstrations for ease of teaching. I've never seen it done so stunningly well with 1/35th

 

 

LOL, thanks! It's the Ultracast 1/32 "WWII German Fighter Pilot" cat. no. 54004. Mike Good's sculpting is outstanding, which makes painting much easier.

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9 minutes ago, tbell said:

LOL, thanks! It's the Ultracast 1/32 "WWII German Fighter Pilot" cat. no. 54004. Mike Good's sculpting is outstanding, which makes painting much easier.

In other words 'The secret of a strong foundation is a good lay.'

That's bricklayers' talk that is, but it's true.

 

Still, the young chap looks amazing. I doubt I'd even manage the cross, let alone his irises and pupils.

 

Rearguards

Badder

 

Edited by Badder
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After studying all this wonderful work I'm thinking it's....

 

Hang on, I've just noticed a really awful, terrible, bit of detailing on that engine. I hope you don't mind me saying but that drive shaft is like, really, REALLY, REALLY RUBBISH! :D

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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I agree with badder, no not the rubbish  drive shaft, the award for bestwood grain, nah seriously top job, very impressive pilot figure, and the bedford looks ace, do the windows open like that or have you modded them?, class above

Glynn

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1 hour ago, Badder said:

After studying all this wonderful work I'm thinking it's....

 

Hang on, I've just noticed a really awful, terrible, bit of detailing on that engine. I hope you don't mind me saying but that drive shaft is like, really, REALLY, REALLY RUBBISH! :D

 

Rearguards,

Badder

Bedford made their lorry drive shafts from wood in an effort to conserve strategic materials for combat vehicles. True story!

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25 minutes ago, Hewy said:

I agree with badder, no not the rubbish  drive shaft, the award for bestwood grain, nah seriously top job, very impressive pilot figure, and the bedford looks ace, do the windows open like that or have you modded them?, class above

Glynn

I replaced the kit styrene windows with acetate from an office supplies store, cut on my Silhouette Portrait electronic cutter to depict them rolled down.

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42 minutes ago, tbell said:

Bedford made their lorry drive shafts from wood in an effort to conserve strategic materials for combat vehicles. True story!

I wasn't sure whether to click on a 'Haha' there, because although funny, I suspect you might be telling the truth when you say it's a true story.

 

So, apologies for slagging off your extremely accurate drive shaft!:lol:

Now, where's my Tamiya X999 3-colour camo paint pot?

Rearguards,

Badder

 

 

Edited by Badder
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10 minutes ago, Badder said:

I wasn't sure whether to click on a 'Haha' there, because although funny, I suspect you might be telling the truth when you say it's a true story.

 

So, apologies for slagging off your extremely accurate drive shaft!:lol:

Now, where's my Tamiya X999 3-colour camo paint pot?

Rearguards,

Badder

 

 

Nah, that was sarcasm (which we all know always comes across so well on the interwebs...)

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Lovely build and finish , I remember the type well , built one a while back as an RAF mobile D/F homer , my old trade .

I`ve driven most Bedfords from the 40s , 50s and 60s , but wooden propshafts ? , how would they

take the torque ? .

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16 hours ago, Don149 said:

Lovely build and finish , I remember the type well , built one a while back as an RAF mobile D/F homer , my old trade .

I`ve driven most Bedfords from the 40s , 50s and 60s , but wooden propshafts ? , how would they

take the torque ? .

To be clear, I was being facetious about the wood drive shafts! I was playing along with Badder's comment re. the toothpick I used to hold the engine...

10 hours ago, Stesca said:

Love this, makes me fancy one of these.

It's a nice kit, albeit somewhat like a short run. IBG's recent Scammell is considerably more refined (minor accuracy issues notwithstanding)

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That's an amazing build.

On 10/31/2017 at 11:57 AM, tbell said:

The wood finish is simply artists oil paint on top of Tamiya XF15 Flesh, a technique that I honed on WWI aircraft models. I put a dab of oil paint on a piece of corrugated cardboard for about 30 min to draw out the excess linseed oil and then mix it with a bit of drying medium (stand oil in this case). I brush a thin coat of the oil paint on the piece and then create the grain by dragging it with a clean rake brush. The softer the brush, the finer the grain, so you can use this technique in any scale. It's workable for several hours (takes a couple of days to dry), so you can mess about with it until you have it just so.

Another technique added to the notebook!

 

On 10/31/2017 at 8:47 PM, Don149 said:

Lovely build and finish , I remember the type well , built one a while back as an RAF mobile D/F homer , my old trade .

I`ve driven most Bedfords from the 40s , 50s and 60s , but wooden propshafts ? , how would they

take the torque ? .

Wooden driveshafts don't have ears, so you can say anything you want!

Edited by Gav G
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