tbell Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 (edited) Hi folks, Just finished the IBG Bedford QLR with PART and Eduard photoetch and Panzer Art wheels. Tamiya acrylics with oils and pigments weathering. Constructive criticism welcome! Edited October 31, 2017 by tbell 22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinhow Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Very nice! All the details are very sharp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Constructive criticism welcome! Well, having built the kit a while back all I can say is ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Always better than 'destructive criticism' I suppose! Superb job!!!!! I love the colours used on the engine block and the wooden work surfaces in the back, but also love the radio set, the tyres, chassis, body work, camo.... oh all right, I love all of it! A question on the wooden work surfaces though... is that painted on or some kind of applied veneer? Cos if that's painted on I think you deserve an award for the 'best hand-painted wood grain ever'. Reargaurds, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullbasket Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Great job. I really like the finish on this. Also it brings back memories from the 60's in Germany when our CO used to use one of these on exercise as his caravan. John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arachnid Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 I love it,well done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbell Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 (edited) Thanks all for the kind words! 17 hours ago, Badder said: A question on the wooden work surfaces though... is that painted on or some kind of applied veneer? The wood finish is simply artists oil paint on top of Tamiya XF15 Flesh, a technique that I honed on WWI aircraft models. I put a dab of oil paint on a piece of corrugated cardboard for about 30 min to draw out the excess linseed oil and then mix it with a bit of drying medium (stand oil in this case). I brush a thin coat of the oil paint on the piece and then create the grain by dragging it with a clean rake brush. The softer the brush, the finer the grain, so you can use this technique in any scale. It's workable for several hours (takes a couple of days to dry), so you can mess about with it until you have it just so. Edited November 1, 2017 by tbell 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 (edited) 5 hours ago, tbell said: I put a dab of oil paint on a piece of corrugated cardboard for about 30 min to draw out the excess linseed oil and then mix it with a bit of drying medium (stand oil in this case) excellent description and very effective effect Tony. I was puzzled at the term "stand oil" but a quick google http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1252 Quote Stand oil is sun or heat thickened Linseed Oil. It is quite thick - viscosity of thin honey. If used in painting, it will not darken over time the way that pure linseed will. It also helps in the formation of a more enamel-like surface than straight linseed. Not noticed it when looking at oil paint, so though maybe the link would help others.. any particular oil colours, what did you use above ? and, stunning model overall too. cheers T Edited October 31, 2017 by Troy Smith spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbell Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 19 minutes ago, Troy Smith said: any particular oil colours, what did you use above ? I generally wing it with the exact mix. IIRC, I used Burnt Sienna with a touch of Burnt Umber. Other shades I use are Yellow Ochre, Raw Umber and Naples Yellow (for blonde wood). I also like to use oils for leather. The technique is exactly the same except instead of streaking, I stipple with a soft, dry brush. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 2 hours ago, tbell said: PLEASE TELL ME THAT'S AT LEAST 1/24th AND HOPEFULLY 1/16th SCALE!!???? If that's 1/35th scale, I'm giving up! Reaguards, Badder. ps. Thanks for the explanation on painting the wood. I've seen 'how to' videos, but they were 'large scale' demonstrations for ease of teaching. I've never seen it done so stunningly well with 1/35th Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbell Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 1 hour ago, Badder said: PLEASE TELL ME THAT'S AT LEAST 1/24th AND HOPEFULLY 1/16th SCALE!!???? If that's 1/35th scale, I'm giving up! Reaguards, Badder. ps. Thanks for the explanation on painting the wood. I've seen 'how to' videos, but they were 'large scale' demonstrations for ease of teaching. I've never seen it done so stunningly well with 1/35th LOL, thanks! It's the Ultracast 1/32 "WWII German Fighter Pilot" cat. no. 54004. Mike Good's sculpting is outstanding, which makes painting much easier. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 (edited) 9 minutes ago, tbell said: LOL, thanks! It's the Ultracast 1/32 "WWII German Fighter Pilot" cat. no. 54004. Mike Good's sculpting is outstanding, which makes painting much easier. In other words 'The secret of a strong foundation is a good lay.' That's bricklayers' talk that is, but it's true. Still, the young chap looks amazing. I doubt I'd even manage the cross, let alone his irises and pupils. Rearguards Badder Edited October 31, 2017 by Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 After studying all this wonderful work I'm thinking it's.... Hang on, I've just noticed a really awful, terrible, bit of detailing on that engine. I hope you don't mind me saying but that drive shaft is like, really, REALLY, REALLY RUBBISH! Rearguards, Badder 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 I agree with badder, no not the rubbish drive shaft, the award for bestwood grain, nah seriously top job, very impressive pilot figure, and the bedford looks ace, do the windows open like that or have you modded them?, class above Glynn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soeren Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 What a beutifull model Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbell Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 1 hour ago, Badder said: After studying all this wonderful work I'm thinking it's.... Hang on, I've just noticed a really awful, terrible, bit of detailing on that engine. I hope you don't mind me saying but that drive shaft is like, really, REALLY, REALLY RUBBISH! Rearguards, Badder Bedford made their lorry drive shafts from wood in an effort to conserve strategic materials for combat vehicles. True story! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbell Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 25 minutes ago, Hewy said: I agree with badder, no not the rubbish drive shaft, the award for bestwood grain, nah seriously top job, very impressive pilot figure, and the bedford looks ace, do the windows open like that or have you modded them?, class above Glynn I replaced the kit styrene windows with acetate from an office supplies store, cut on my Silhouette Portrait electronic cutter to depict them rolled down. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 (edited) 42 minutes ago, tbell said: Bedford made their lorry drive shafts from wood in an effort to conserve strategic materials for combat vehicles. True story! I wasn't sure whether to click on a 'Haha' there, because although funny, I suspect you might be telling the truth when you say it's a true story. So, apologies for slagging off your extremely accurate drive shaft! Now, where's my Tamiya X999 3-colour camo paint pot? Rearguards, Badder Edited October 31, 2017 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbell Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 10 minutes ago, Badder said: I wasn't sure whether to click on a 'Haha' there, because although funny, I suspect you might be telling the truth when you say it's a true story. So, apologies for slagging off your extremely accurate drive shaft! Now, where's my Tamiya X999 3-colour camo paint pot? Rearguards, Badder Nah, that was sarcasm (which we all know always comes across so well on the interwebs...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don149 Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Lovely build and finish , I remember the type well , built one a while back as an RAF mobile D/F homer , my old trade . I`ve driven most Bedfords from the 40s , 50s and 60s , but wooden propshafts ? , how would they take the torque ? . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stesca Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 Love this, makes me fancy one of these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbell Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 16 hours ago, Don149 said: Lovely build and finish , I remember the type well , built one a while back as an RAF mobile D/F homer , my old trade . I`ve driven most Bedfords from the 40s , 50s and 60s , but wooden propshafts ? , how would they take the torque ? . To be clear, I was being facetious about the wood drive shafts! I was playing along with Badder's comment re. the toothpick I used to hold the engine... 10 hours ago, Stesca said: Love this, makes me fancy one of these. It's a nice kit, albeit somewhat like a short run. IBG's recent Scammell is considerably more refined (minor accuracy issues notwithstanding) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gav G Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 (edited) That's an amazing build. On 10/31/2017 at 11:57 AM, tbell said: The wood finish is simply artists oil paint on top of Tamiya XF15 Flesh, a technique that I honed on WWI aircraft models. I put a dab of oil paint on a piece of corrugated cardboard for about 30 min to draw out the excess linseed oil and then mix it with a bit of drying medium (stand oil in this case). I brush a thin coat of the oil paint on the piece and then create the grain by dragging it with a clean rake brush. The softer the brush, the finer the grain, so you can use this technique in any scale. It's workable for several hours (takes a couple of days to dry), so you can mess about with it until you have it just so. Another technique added to the notebook! On 10/31/2017 at 8:47 PM, Don149 said: Lovely build and finish , I remember the type well , built one a while back as an RAF mobile D/F homer , my old trade . I`ve driven most Bedfords from the 40s , 50s and 60s , but wooden propshafts ? , how would they take the torque ? . Wooden driveshafts don't have ears, so you can say anything you want! Edited November 2, 2017 by Gav G 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don149 Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Yes they do , little ones both ends of the propshaft , in the universal joints , its where you pump the grease in ! . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris B Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 Cracking job, excellent model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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