Bungalow_Bill Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 Nice work! Keepa-rollin! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 (edited) Bits n Bobs getting done as the chance arises. U/C legs have door covers foiled and fitted. Main wheel covers required a bit of guess work, to be honest. Insides have 2 concave lugs to engage with the legs, but going above the axle moulding so that the lower lug engaged the leg seemed too high to me. In the end I cut off the lower mounting lug, filed the end of the axle housing flat and clean and positioned the door basically so that the position where the lug had been went against the clean axle end. Dya get me?!? Also... The seats are trying to mimic this, Edited November 7, 2017 by rob Lyttle 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 (edited) I think i did the same with mine Rob. Regarding The undercarriage trick. Edited November 7, 2017 by Corsairfoxfouruncle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 Also, See the leading edge outboard of the red strips that join to the fuselage.... There's another little red strip, and it features on the airframe at Tangmere.... It's not Red in this instance, but definitely a length of angle metal added to the leading edge . Question... is it standard feature on T33s, or an odd random modification? There is absolutely no hint of it being represented on the kit, or the F80 for that matter. What is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 (edited) Im not sure what it is im thinking Leading edge extension and that particular T-33 was used in testing of some sort possibly angle of attack ? Rob i remember this little gem too down in Aviation Photography Old viper tester posted these. That T-33 seems to have the same mod as well ? Check the 4th and 7th photos out. Hmmm now that im thinking about it i wonder if your plane at one time wore a F-94 nose some T-33’s wore them for testing electronics out and one was modified to test the M-61 vulcan out back in the 50’s or early 60’s. I remember that from my T-33 squadron book. That might explain the LEX’s to counter the longer nose. Edited November 8, 2017 by Corsairfoxfouruncle Added Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 That was a good read! I'm not sure I'm seeing the wing feature on the pictures using this android phone. Couple of other walk- arounds I will take a look at on here before committing. Looking like the wheel covers are about right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 (edited) Ok now that ive had time to think about this. Im going to say it might be to prevent ice from forming. Since there are no de-icing bladders on this. Im wondering if a single piece of angle iron, riveted to the leading edge might be enough of an odd shape to prevent ice from sticking ? Edited November 8, 2017 by Corsairfoxfouruncle Corrections Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 I can't see it being effective against icing - it would add to the build up. Found 3 walk- arounds on here. Not sure if it is OK to repost other people's pictures - I have asked... 1 Danish doesn't have angle strip 2 Newark (could be new Jersey but parked next to RAF Lightning?) I'll have to go back - can't remember... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 Im at a loss then ? I will take a look at the local one this weekend. See if that has these. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 OK...4 walk- arounds on BM. 1. Danish does have them. 2. City of Norwich museum does Not have them. 3. Newark ( could be New Jersey but sitting beside RAF Lightning!) Does have them. 4. Ex- Canadian AF Does have them. Plus, of course, 5. Tangmere Does have them. It's hard to imagine these things managing to do very much really. But I might have a go with a bit of pie dish Ali and see what it comes out like. Just surface mounted. Noticed the Norwich plane has that RR Nene vent on the port side. I'm currently more concerned about the seat positions, especially the rear seat wants to go way back under the rear framing. There's no room to slide forward - I think they both need to TIP forward a bit. I'll keep looking at refs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wlad Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 (edited) Actually they do something very important: they ensure the wing near the root stalls before the wing tips do. Wing tip stalls usually don't happen to both tips at the same time, this results in the stalled wing dropping and likely entry into a spin. These stall strips disrupt the airflow near the root, ensuring that area stalls first. Since it's closer to the fuselage it is less likely to cause a sudden wing drop. Also, most of the lift is generated closer to the fuselage, so the stall will likely result in the nose dropping and improving the overall airflow over the wing. The F4U Corsair had it too, only on the right wing if I recall correctly, to force that wing to stall before the left one and help counter the propeller torque. I checked my CT-133 pictures and they all have the strip as well. Cheers, Wlad Edited November 9, 2017 by Wlad clarity 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 8 hours ago, Wlad said: they do something very important: they ensure the wing near the root stalls before the wing tips Good one, Wlad! The whole thing stands to reason now. The time I spent trying to build wash in and wash out into balsa wings, I should have seen that. Looks like a post production Fix. So, the ones without, are they missing, never fitted, or different batches? I think I'm gonna have a go . Thanks for insight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 Wing root spoilers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 14, 2017 Author Share Posted November 14, 2017 THAT was a quiet weekend on Britmodeller, wasn't it? No prizes for guessing where everyone was,. I didn't make it to the Big Show but I did have the pleasure of meeting Mr and Mrs Belcher of Belchersbits, the Canadian resin and Decal specialist , on their way to Telford. I got a few odds and ends sorted instead. She's almost there... This isn't a replica of a particular Aircraft, more a representation of the type Phone is playing up here, between This and Flickr, so I better post before I lose stuff... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 14, 2017 Author Share Posted November 14, 2017 Love to have a ladder but it's quite a fancy bit of scratch building to get the structure over the curves. I'm going to add a pair of wheel chocks to the nose wheel - that's an easy option! I can have a go at the ladder some time later, it's not as if I'm messing with the airframe. If it's a fail I can just bin the ladder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 16, 2017 Author Share Posted November 16, 2017 Well, bit of a major crisis with the canopy, I'm afraid! It started with a glue fingertip situation which I managed to scrape back fairly well, just left a faint blur on the outside. Dipped in Kleer and left to hang. Came back to find a big bulky mark around the low end. Somebody suggested Windowleene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Ive had that happen before. I wound up stripping the future off the canopy sanding and buffing the print. Then i redipped twice. I also sometimes have problems with my future fogging if its to cold or humid. Same process of redipping and putting it someplace warm and dry to set. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 16, 2017 Author Share Posted November 16, 2017 2 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: I wound up stripping the future off the canopy sanding and buffing the print. Just run that past me again, f4u.! I've heard talk of micromesh polishing pads- brings the surface back to clear. Used it? Trouble is, all the mess up seems to be on the inside. I've had a clean up and done 2fairly light brush coats of kleer and it's certainly better than before, but I'm still not convinced I can pull it back. Hey ho.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 (edited) If its on the inside it might be a case of the kleer not drying 100%. It probably has to fo with temperature and air flow around the pieces. For polishing I use something similar i start about 1000 grit and work up to about 2000 grit. I have used Iso alcohol and warm water to strip future. Then if i have to i polish the offending print or fogginess. I also dip the clear parts in future. I don't usually brush it on. I have an old glass pickle jar that i scrubbed and cleaned thoroughly. I filled that about 2/3rds with future i then dip or drop the clear parts into. I Have a storage tub lined with kitchen paper towels and plastic sprue frames for drying the clear parts. I can suspend or place canopies on the frames to allow air to circulate around them. Since this is a longer process i usually do a couple aircrafts worth of clear parts at one time. Edited November 17, 2017 by Corsairfoxfouruncle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 Right then, looks like I need to up my game as far as transparent pieces go! That's all good information - I didn't realise you could do so much to a clear canopy and get away with it. Interesting about the humidity effect too. 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 If you opt to go with the dip method. I use a long pair of tweezers to dip the clear pieces and hold canopies in the future for about 8-10 seconds. I usually hold canopies on the frame part. Any smudge created will be covered by paint as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bungalow_Bill Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 Rob, Looking good! You can really improve your clear pieces with stuff from your auto parts store. Meguiar's Rubbing compound and microfibre cloth after sanding will give you an awesome dry finish without worrying whether your Future will dry right. If you want shine... talk to them car fanatics. Gaz 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 5 hours ago, Bungalow_Bill said: Meguiar's Rubbing compound I guess this is an Australian brand, so is it for restoration of the paint finish, to get the colour back up? I think I'd be looking for T-Cut in the UK. I get nervous around canopy transparencies - too many foul-ups to my name already. So learning how to cope with a crisis is going to be useful in building confidence!😂 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bungalow_Bill Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 9 hours ago, rob Lyttle said: I guess this is an Australian brand, so is it for restoration of the paint finish, to get the colour back up? I think I'd be looking for T-Cut in the UK. I get nervous around canopy transparencies - too many foul-ups to my name already. So learning how to cope with a crisis is going to be useful in building confidence!😂 I think Meguier's is an American product. T'was a yank that recommended it to me, so when I went to the auto parts store I went looking for an Aussie product. But, to my surprise there was Meguiers staring me in the face. Just a further note on polishing: Try to do most of your polishing while it's still on the sprue, especially when doing the inside. I've cracked/wrecked a couple canopies because my fingers spread the clear plastic too much. Gaz 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 Trouble is, they're always in good condition when on the sprue. It's only when I start interfering that the trouble starts!! I'm going shopping tomorrow. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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