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1/35 Tamiya Panther Ausf G


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I  have cleaned up most of my aircraft projects so I am starting back up on this

one. It's the Tamiya 1/35 kit 35174, steel wheels. I am going to do an Ardennes

machine, side number 221 as I have found several good pictures of it knocked out

at La Gleize Belgium December 1944. I have ordered PE for the rear deck and am looking

into replacing the rubber band tracks, I prefer the link by link tracks as you get better

sag with them. Here's what I have so far.---John

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Bluebear,  no interior, the painting is force of habit. I thought about adding a figure and

you may see a bit of the interior. I also am not weathering. My last weathering attempt

was a disaster so I am leaving this one "showroom pristine".---John

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Ooooh go one! Just a bit of weathering! A spray with gloss varnish, (which you'll have to do for the decals anyway) a few washes/pin washes here and there and then a coat of matt varnish. Nothing could be simpler, and the effect will make a huge difference!

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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My failure was a 1/72 Tiger II Porsche turret. I did however have fair

luck with my 1/35 Dragon Tiger II Henschel build with very light weathering.---John

whKXdqo.jpg

h8sRiAw.jpg

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Sorry I'm old fashioned, no air brush or modulation, whatever that is. I can

maybe whip up an oil wash or do some reading on weathering. It will be painted

with Tamiya spray cans, lacquer. Any suggestions on a wash?---John

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Probably easiest to watch Miguel Jiminez 'weathering AFVs' videos. You can always skip some of the processes if you feel they are beyond what you feel comfortable with.

 

If I were you I'd keep it simple - a gloss varnish coat (acrylic) followed by a couple of enamel washes (earth/dark earth) and maybe some pin washes (almost black) Followed up by a coat of matt varnish and maybe a little dry brushing.

 

Oil washes are fine... plenty of working time and easy to remove if you mess it up... but they do take an age to dry.

 

I wouldn't bother with modulation at all.... very over-rated and often completely untraceable after all that hard work.... and probably best to skip the fading and chipping for now as well.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

 

 

Edited by Badder
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23 hours ago, Badder said:

Probably easiest to watch Miguel Jiminez 'weathering AFVs' videos. You can always skip some of the processes if you feel they are beyond what you feel comfortable with.

 

If I were you I'd keep it simple - a gloss varnish coat (acrylic) followed by a couple of enamel washes (earth/dark earth) and maybe some pin washes (almost black) Followed up by a coat of matt varnish and maybe a little dry brushing.

 

Oil washes are fine... plenty of working time and easy to remove if you mess it up... but they do take an age to dry.

 

I wouldn't bother with modulation at all.... very over-rated and often completely untraceable after all that hard work.... and probably best to skip the fading and chipping for now as well.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

 

 

Totally agree with Badder, the modulation process, or maybe you do not know how to do it, or it really is a waste of time, because as it says, once all the layers of paint and weathering applied, you do not see anything that was made at first...

Coming along nicely...:popcorn:, cheers mate

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Thanks, I am practicing on a 1/72 model that didn't come out as good

as I wanted. I repainted it white, did some detail painting, made an acrylic

wash and dusted it with brown and black pastel chalks ground up and applied

with an old brush. It looks better than it did in overall dunklegelb but I still need

practice, maybe an oil wash would work better.---John

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I added all the parts I want for now, left a few fragile handles off until

after masking. The PE screens for the rear deck should be in any day,

then I can spray the dunklegelb as a primer coat, mask and repeat for

the olivgrun and rotbraun.---John

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bsxO8qi.jpg

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