Another Ryan, The FR-1 Fireball and a jump over the cliff

[corsaircorp]

Hello Dears,

I call it a jump over the cliff since it will be a first for me !

Hope that I will do better than fouled it all up !

I'll try my first vac formed kit. I have some in my stock but I always retarded the time to start one !

Did'nt choose the best or the easier one but "Where would be the pleasure ??"

 As a fan of Naval aviation, I bought it in the '80s, sayin' that I will try it a day !

Since that day, I wait for a brand to make her in 1/48 in injected but no ! and I missed the Czeck Model one !

And that's all. That's why I add "there will be some scratch on this one "

Voilà, Here's all that you have.

The instruction sheet is ... Errrrr .... Instructive !

No plans, no decals....

Wish me good luck with that one...

Will not be finshed in 2017 for sure !

But if I'm succesfull, the next one is a double Sea Vixen, Airfix and Dynavector, or a double Wyvern Trumpy and Dynavector !

Have a very good modeling time !

Yes I know, I started a WiP again !

Sincerely.

Corsaircorp

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

All i can say is “ You’re a Braver man than me Corsaircorp !” I probably wont ever touch a Vacuform kit ... Frankly they scare the **** out of me. 

[Space Ranger]

As vac-forms go, the Wings kits are some of the best. I have several in my collection, all 1/72. Vac-forms are no more difficult to build than injection-molded kits; they just take more patience and care to get the mating edges just right and trailing edges sharp.

[71chally]

Best of luck!  Certainly a great project to follow, interesting aircraft the Fireball.

 

I have Dynavector Vixen almost complete, just awaiting detail and paint, straightforward enough and very enjoyable to build.

The Dynavector A2D Skyshark must be high on your list?

[Christer A]

Wow! You're my kind of crazy all right!

This should prove a lot interesting, for sure

Cheers from a fellow serial kitsarter!

[corsaircorp]

2 hours ago, 71chally said:

Best of luck!  Certainly a great project to follow, interesting aircraft the Fireball.

 

I have Dynavector Vixen almost complete, just awaiting detail and paint, straightforward enough and very enjoyable to build.

The Dynavector A2D Skyshark must be high on your list?

Hello Chally

Of course, she is, but still look for her In Czech models.

Sorry about that

Dynavector, look sharp, I've got 3 of the brand, all 1/48, Wyvern, Sea Vixen and Gannet !

Still have some pleasure ahead !!

Sincerely.

CC

[sinnerboy]

If ever there was an unfortunate name for an aircraft!

 

good luck with that, never have and never will do a vac 

[Sabrejet]

Nice choice: no idea why some folks won't do vacforms because they are very rewarding: I've done from Rareplanes 1/72 KC-97 (huge!) to Project X 1/72 Fairey FD.1 (tiny!) and a great many in between. The only one I didn't finish was a Contrail TSR.2, which seemed a bridge too far in terms of correcting inaccuracies.

 

Following this one with interest.

[71chally]

36 minutes ago, corsaircorp said:

Dynavector, look sharp, I've got 3 of the brand, all 1/48, Wyvern, Sea Vixen and Gannet !

Still have some pleasure ahead !!

It's a gem, probably still the best Gannet out there

Dynavector Gannet AS.1 by James Thomas, on Flickr

 

The Scimitar is the other Dyna that I want to get.

 

Anyway, no more distractions, let's watch the Fireball evolve!

Edited September 25, 2017 by 71chally

[TallBlondJohn]

Just wondering, did it ever have decals?

[corsaircorp]

9 hours ago, TallBlondJohn said:

Just wondering, did it ever have decals?

I wondered too but no decals at all and it was sealed.

So I will have a go in my drawer for having a VF 41 one

Have a very nice modelling time.

Sincerely.

Corsaircorp

[corsaircorp]

9 hours ago, 71chally said:

It's a gem, probably still the best Gannet out there

Dynavector Gannet AS.1 by James Thomas, on Flickr

 

The Scimitar is the other Dyna that I want to get.

 

Anyway, no more distractions, let's watch the Fireball evolve!

Wooooow, really good Gannet !

Hope to do half as good with mine !

Congratulations !

Sincerely.

CC

[TheBaron]

Wishing you luck with this kit Cc!

Tony

[Ex-FAAWAFU]

I’m along for this one, definitely.  I have a Dynavector Scimitar in my stash, which will be my first vacform model.  Like many, I view it with some trepidation, but friends who have built good vacforms who agree with @Space Ranger that, with a bit of care, they’re no harder to build than a short run plastic kit.  

 

Lovely Gannet!

[IPMS19]

4 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said:

I’m along for this one, definitely.  I have a Dynavector Scimitar in my stash, which will be my first vacform model.  Like many, I view it with some trepidation, but friends who have built good vacforms who agree with @Space Ranger that, with a bit of care, they’re no harder to build than a short run plastic kit.  

 

Lovely Gannet!

- Your friends are right, I built this Scimitar amongst several others some years ago , a vacu kit is not harder to built than a traditional kit...a good cutting and thickening the

gluing joint and everythings goes smoothly, break your leg Corsaircorp and keep cool....

[John Aero]

You have picked a fairly difficult subject, mainly because it is sucked over a male plug mould, unlike the Dynavector's which are sucked into a detailed (female) mould. Which means the trailing edges of the flying surfaces tend to round off, especially the tail planes.

 

However don't be put off by the nay sayer's. You will be a far better modeller for having a go. Trepidation is understandable, but never attempting something it is not.  Believe me it's very difficult to mess up completely. Mark around each part accurately with the finest permanent marker pen or a 2 B or B pencil. Do not cut or abrade this line away, you work up to the line. Practice on the wast plastic with curving scores and see how with a little bending pressure the part just breaks out.

 

Make sure you use a straight new blade and score with reasonable pressure.It's best to separate the main parts from the sheet with scissors (or a knife) before you start the individual marking process, this just makes the separation easier. You are not trying to cut through in one go, but if scored properly the part will break out with a little bending pressure.  If you over score into the part, simply run a drop of superglue into the score and sand it down.

 

Make lots of cuts from the part to the edge of the waste surrounding the part. Breaking out a small piece at a time around each part will make life easier and prevent mistakes.  Any difficult corners can be dealt with by making lots of angled cuts and break out bits using small pliers.  I use sharpened pincers to nibble some areas.

 

When abrading the parts, don't use the old sandpaper on a flat surface method. Use double sided tape to stick sandpaper to small blocks of wood, plastic or T section aluminium. A simple source of self adhesive abrading paper is to purchase some stick on sanding discs for bench sanders. Cut these into strips on the reverse side using a straight edge and your old discarded model blades, which will still be sharp enough to cut through the sand paper. Use heavy duty sharp knife blades to scrape around the edges. You'll be surprised how material you can remove this way.

 

John

[71chally]

I followed your technique (saw it in a mag I think) John when I built the above Gannet 20 years ago, it was my first vacform.  I was amazed at how well fitting the main parts were and love that moment when that last little sliver of surrounding plastic falls away from the marked edge.

[Space Ranger]

I, too, use John's technique with some modifications. I use a Sharpie "permanent" marker to outline the parts prior to cutting them out. A dark, bright color makes the outline easier to see, and the "permanent" ink can be removed with an alcohol wipe prior to assembly. I, too, use various sanding tools and even files to remove most of the excess plastic, working up to the marker color, but then give the parts a final swipe on a sheet of 400 grit sandpaper taped to a piece of thick plate glass to even the edges.

 

As John points out, trailing edges of flying surfaces can be an issue, particularly when the kit has been molded from a male pattern. I have glued plastic strip inside trailing edges to provide excess material for sanding them to a knife edge. I've also flooded the interior of wings with CA at the trailing edge in order to allow them to be sanded once the CA has cured.

 

Extremely thin flying surfaces, of jets, for example, can also be difficult to sand, especially at the tips. In those cases, scraping the plastic away from the inside with a curved blade is a faster and more efficient way to remove the excess plastic. Once the material has been removed from the interior, the edges can be treated in the usual manner.

 

I have also found that when scoring sharp curves (wing tips, for example) it is sometimes better to score a series of straight lines tangent to the curve instead of around the curve itself. This lessens the chance of breaking the part.

[corsaircorp]

Hello dears,

I thank you all for the very clever advices,

And now Ladies and Gentlllllen, I must have a go... Seemingly, May be, Perhaps !

Will try in a few minutes, Thank again.

Sincerely.

Corsaircorp

[corsaircorp]

Hello Dears,

I marked the fuselages, but it seemed way too thick

So I take a pencli 2B and remake it, aaaaand I jumped !

Undersides cut !

Will sand after ! but I'm glad

Now do not be over confident and still going easy

Thanks chaps for help and advices, You give me the necessary boost !

Sincerely.

CC

[corsaircorp]

A last one and I go to my bed !

Glad enough, lots of fears have vanished today !

Many thanks !

Have a nice day and take care !

Sincerely.

CC

[corsaircorp]

Hello dears,

I also will by this thread answer to my own fears about Vac formed kits !

But first, a good new, the postwoman bring this one to CC castle this morning

Here's the detail from the parts just from the cut

I follow the advices but as I was looking for a piece of wood to make a sanding tool, I just remember that !

I bought this for sanding the plaster on my daughter bedroom,

 look like a sponge but it is not !

Very hard, coarse on one side smoother on the other one and GOD ! it go on fast !!

A few sanding give this !

Then it give this, must be cautious now !

Found a prospective jet pipe , look !

Obviously, still got some sanding in a next future,

But ! Once again , THANKS to @Space Ranger ,  @71chally and @Sabrejet for your kind words !!

Let's have a drink in Telford may be !

Sincerely.

CC

[corsaircorp]

On ‎26‎/‎09‎/‎2017 at 2:19 PM, John Aero said:

You have picked a fairly difficult subject, mainly because it is sucked over a male plug mould, unlike the Dynavector's which are sucked into a detailed (female) mould. Which means the trailing edges of the flying surfaces tend to round off, especially the tail planes.

 

However don't be put off by the nay sayer's. You will be a far better modeller for having a go. Trepidation is understandable, but never attempting something it is not.  Believe me it's very difficult to mess up completely. Mark around each part accurately with the finest permanent marker pen or a 2 B or B pencil. Do not cut or abrade this line away, you work up to the line. Practice on the wast plastic with curving scores and see how with a little bending pressure the part just breaks out.

 

Make sure you use a straight new blade and score with reasonable pressure.It's best to separate the main parts from the sheet with scissors (or a knife) before you start the individual marking process, this just makes the separation easier. You are not trying to cut through in one go, but if scored properly the part will break out with a little bending pressure.  If you over score into the part, simply run a drop of superglue into the score and sand it down.

 

Make lots of cuts from the part to the edge of the waste surrounding the part. Breaking out a small piece at a time around each part will make life easier and prevent mistakes.  Any difficult corners can be dealt with by making lots of angled cuts and break out bits using small pliers.  I use sharpened pincers to nibble some areas.

 

When abrading the parts, don't use the old sandpaper on a flat surface method. Use double sided tape to stick sandpaper to small blocks of wood, plastic or T section aluminium. A simple source of self adhesive abrading paper is to purchase some stick on sanding discs for bench sanders. Cut these into strips on the reverse side using a straight edge and your old discarded model blades, which will still be sharp enough to cut through the sand paper. Use heavy duty sharp knife blades to scrape around the edges. You'll be surprised how material you can remove this way.

 

John

Sorry John, did'nt include you in the first post, You also have my grateful thanks !

Here's what I use for a try

Seem to work well ! it come from a DiY shop !

Sincerely.

CC

[Christer A]

So far so good!

That big block looks like it can remove a lot of plastic, and fast... just what's needed for this kind of job.

[corsaircorp]

Hello Dears'

Seem to look good to me, I did it !

Now I will look nin my docs, first trying to find it !!

But I can start to find a way to turn this engine

Into Something that will look like this

Not winned yet, but will have a look at B-17 engines ... In QB I think .....

Sincerely.

CC