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Great build Tony, despite the paint problems!

May I suggest to remove the torquay link from the nose gear leg.

These were only used on very early production 262s and replaced by shimmy dampers by early 1945.

The color scheme you are modelling does not have torquay link:

https://www.asisbiz.com/il2/Me-262/JG7/pages/Me-262A1a-Stab-II.JG7-Geschwaderkommodore-Theo-Weissenberger-Green-4-Germany-1945-01.html

Kind regards

Roman

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Hi Tony. Nice recovery on the Me-262, looks great. Had I jumped into your thread earlier, i would have recommended repeated thin coats of Johnsons Klear (old formula), allow at least 24hrs drying time, followed by Micromesh grades 2400-12000, switching the orientation of rubbing between each grade; rinse and repeat....pain in the behind but I got a nice surface for decal adhesion on my Su-27. 

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2 hours ago, James G said:

Hi Tony. Nice recovery on the Me-262, looks great. Had I jumped into your thread earlier, i would have recommended repeated thin coats of Johnsons Klear (old formula), allow at least 24hrs drying time, followed by Micromesh grades 2400-12000, switching the orientation of rubbing between each grade; rinse and repeat....pain in the behind but I got a nice surface for decal adhesion on my Su-27. 

 

Cheers for the input mate but it was the post decal varnish to seal them that went wrong. 

 

In a nutshell - 

 

colourcoats camo - perfect

ak gauzy gloss - perfect

decals - perfect

Mig satin sealing coat - FAILED

Then had alclad clears to level it off, lots of flat which was sanded, some colourcoats touch ups then finished with alclad semi-matt. 

 

Cheers, Tony. 

 

Ps where are you still getting original klear from? I joined this hobby long after it went out of production... 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, Roman Schilhart said:

May I suggest to remove the torquay link from the nose gear leg.

 

Thanks for the heads up Roman but its too far gone for that now. Had enough of this build and its in the cabinet. Looks like it needs some light mottles on fuselage  sides too, thought they were misprints on the airfix instructions. Oh well. 

Hopefully someone else can benefit from this information 👍🏿

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2 minutes ago, Tony Oliver said:

 

Cheers for the input mate but it was the post decal varnish to seal them that went wrong. 

 

In a nutshell - 

 

colourcoats camo - perfect

ak gauzy gloss - perfect

decals - perfect

Mig satin sealing coat - FAILED

Then had alclad clears to level it off, lots of flat which was sanded, some colourcoats touch ups then finished with alclad semi-matt. 

 

Cheers, Tony. 

 

Ps where are you still getting original klear from? I joined this hobby long after it went out of production... 

 

Thanks for the heads up but too far gone for that now. 

Aah I see...sorry jumped the gun a bit there. I guess there is no hard and fast method for touching up topcoats if a product has let you down...this thread is therefore getting bookmarked for future reference! Regarding Klear, I had a supply from 'the old days'! The new stuff is (from what I've read) pretty much the same, and available at non-silly prices...

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  • 1 year later...
On 10/11/2017 at 1:52 PM, Roman Schilhart said:

May I suggest to remove the torquay link from the nose gear leg.

Sorry to hijack your older thread Tony, but it is invaluable to my current build...

 

Roman...what is the 'torquay link'?  Since I am building the Czech version of this aircraft, I am assuming they didn't have it in the 1950s either.

 

Thanks!

--John 

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16 minutes ago, John D.C. Masters said:

Sorry to hijack your older thread Tony, but it is invaluable to my current build...

 

Roman...what is the 'torquay link'?  Since I am building the Czech version of this aircraft, I am assuming they didn't have it in the 1950s either.

 

Thanks!

--John 

Here a nice link to some Czech aircraft without those struts ...wich i didn’t knew..

https://wwiiafterwwii.wordpress.com/2015/08/12/the-s-92-czechoslovakias-me-262/

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I took a look at this thread, really interesting model by @Tony Oliver, but what caught my attention was the link to Antrum Rats about lead weights, CA and how the fumes expanded an "exploded" the kit after a certain amount of time. I wanted to ask here if the dabs of CA I put on the openings of the included nose weight of my HB 262 in 48 will come back to bite in the next 5 to 10 years. 

To be clearer, I put dabs of CA in the 4 openings on the plastic where the metal weight goes, and just that. I don't even know if the weight of the HB kit is made out of lead, maybe pewter?

Thanks in advance.

 

Edited by Sturmovik
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16 hours ago, John D.C. Masters said:

Roman...what is the 'torquay link'?  Since I am building the Czech version of this aircraft, I am assuming they didn't have it in the 1950s either.

 

Thanks!

--John 

Sorry for being late to the party John … I see the question has been answered already.

6 hours ago, Sturmovik said:

I took a look at this thread, really interesting model by @Tony Oliver, but what caught my attention was the link to Antrum Rats about lead weights, CA and how the fumes expanded an "exploded" the kit after a certain amount of time. I wanted to ask here if the dabs of CA I put on the openings of the included nose weight of my HB 262 in 48 will come back to bite in the next 5 to 10 years. 

To be clearer, I put dabs of CA in the 4 openings on the plastic where the metal weight goes, and just that. I don't even know if the weight of the HB kit is made out of lead, maybe pewter?

Thanks in advance.

 

May I suggest to use White Glue instead of CA?

Takes more time to dry, but will not lead to any unpleasant surprises later on.

 

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Just now, Roman Schilhart said:

Sorry for being late to the party John … I see the question has been answered already.

May I suggest to use White Glue instead of CA?

Takes more time to dry, but will not lead to any unpleasant surprises later on.

 

Too late for that, the model is already closed. Though it was not much CA, I was told on r/modelmakers I may not have any issues due to how little I used.

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