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cocky05d

Hairspray .

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Hi ,tried the hairspray thingy on a 1.35 Tamiya T62 ,after i was happy with the rust effects ,gave it a coat of klear .

Then i sprayed a coat of the big yellow giants Xtracrylix Russian Green ,then i left it for a few days .

Tried to remove the paint using water and a brush ,didn't want to know ,so i put some Tamiya Acrylic thinners on it ,and things started to happen.

Don't know if that is the right way to do it ,but it caused some of the paint to peel off like real paint does ,i am happy with the effect .

Will post some photos later.

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If you leave acrylic resin for several days, it will cure. Rather than allowing the water to pass through the pigment to reach the chipping medium (e.g. hairspray), the resin becomes quite waterproof. As you found, it then takes alcohol to really shift it and what that almost certainly did in your experiment was break down the paint, just as does when you might use it to strip acrylic resins (although it's not 100% effective at that). I have not used Xtracrylic, but all of my comments are based on my own experience and Vallejo's advice. Check some videos on Youtube, such as Mike Rinaldi's and Mig Jimenez's full length demos, to see how soon you can start working on acrylics over a chipping medium.

Edited by Ade H

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Ive done it as a test on an old king tiger. Sprayed two liberal coats. I waited 30 minutes then sprayed the white. I waited about 10-15 minutes and scrubbed with an old toothbrush. I got very promising results. Like Ade said if you let the paint cure it wont work. You need to do it pretty quick after you spray. 

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Try this step by step video:

 

 

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I like ScaleModelMedic's videos: they are not sophisticated but they are good primers* which is what they are meant to be. That one was among the first that I watched about this technique.

 

He's wrong about at least one important point, though, when the text pops up to say that it only works with acrylic. You can chip through an overcoat of other types of paint, not just acrylic resins. Not only is it possible, but it can be more convincing because you're not fighting against the properties of the resin medium. I have not tried any lacquers because I won't use them, but I'm told that MRP chips very well. That wouldn't surprise me from a chemistry point of view. Enamel effects products such as dust and engine grime work beautifully over a chipping medium, and I've just started to use them for this technique.

 

(*Yes, the pun was deliberate!)

Edited by Ade H

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Hi ,here are some photos ,not very clear but in some of them you can make how how the paint has started to blister and peel ,just like real rust under paint.7Df7gI6.jpgFL5Jqer.jpgk7qglmz.jpgyfX6iBO.jpgG7ZSPkN.jpgB4WzhkM.jpgQQz41lr.jpg

I am pleased with the result ,not bad for a first attempt.

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That's a very good result especially for a first try.

 

If you are using hair-spray then Thanks to Ian Sadler we in the UK know the real trick is using unscented hairspray. 

I used to manufacture the stuff and it's the aromatics that make the smell causing the issue. They are highly reactive to moisture so as small a volume of scent as possible is used. Partly cost but also, being reactive, they can easily cause skin problems. The scent reacts with the paint and bonds it through the hairspray a bit like the steel mesh in concrete. You have found a way to allow that to happen and then separate the layers after. Very clever.

 

For distressed paint finishes;

weather and finish the base vehicle but don't add much, if any dirt. In the field fire hoses are used to blast the vehicles or they're driven into a river and scrubbed with brushes. This makes the temp top finish go further as a thinner coat does the job.

Once happy let it cure fully then give it a couple of mist coats of unscented hairspray (often marked as hypo-allergenic or similar)

As soon as it's touch dry apply the next finish. 

Then when that is touch dry go at it with a tooth-brush or similar until you get what you want. Leave or wash off the loosened stuff.

Let it cure and carry on.

I haven't worked out a good way to do this with decals yet but often only the most vital stuff would be put over a temp finish in any case.

 

HTH and that other chip-in to help more :coat::fool:

 

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Hi ,can't claim any credit for this one ,truth is i made a booboo ,i left the model for 2 weeks then tried to get the paint off with water and a brush .

Didn't so much as scratch the surface ,so i brushed on some Tamiya acrylic thinners with the result as in the photos .

I am pleased with the result ,the way the paint has lifted off seems ok.

Used Tesco's hair spray from their cheap and nasty range 

The tank is meant to be an abandoned vehicle ,a lot of photos of rusty modern Russian have kids playing on them .

I have the Masterbox Panzer troops playing football kit .

There is one figure in the kit that looks to be about 14 ,going to place him on the tank somewhere maybe the turret .

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You mentioned the guy who first came up with the idea ,can imagine the conversation he had with his wife .

Guy who came up with the idea ."Can i borrow some of your hairspray dear?.

His wife "What do you want it for ?" 

Guy "I want to spray it on my model tank to help create a rusted look"

His wife "Oh if you are going to be silly i am not going to bother with you."

 

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