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Tamiya Stug IV


Harrypotter

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First armour that wasnt for war gaming for 25 years. 

 

Picked the kit up years ago, I just happen to like stugs 😁 got the photo etch a while ago to. 

 

Really enjoying the build so far, never used photo etch before but it was simple enough. Mantlet got some Mr surfacer 500 and a light buff with wet and dry. Not quite sure where I'm going with it as a kit yet, just wanted to build something where I didn't need any more aftermarket that I don't have and i didn't want to light (sci fi kits).

 

Stugs

 

 

Stugs

 

Stugs

 

Stugs

 

Edited by Harrypotter
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16 minutes ago, Kris B said:

One of the best PE Zimmerit apply I've seen. But in few places need to be filled as the plastic can be seen - left hand side of the gun on the first photo. 

I agree, very nice application. I think you'll find that the panel you refer to was left uncoated, the other side of it WILL have been zimmeritted.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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Great job, Potter.

I will be following as I have this kit in the stash. I have to admit that I totally overlooked the zimmerit though. I will have to get some too. Can you tell me which brand you've used?

 

Thanks,

Badder

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2 hours ago, Badder said:

Great job, Potter.

I will be following as I have this kit in the stash. I have to admit that I totally overlooked the zimmerit though. I will have to get some too. Can you tell me which brand you've used?

 

Thanks,

Badder

It was the Eduard kit 35483 iirc.

 

Have some academy tracks on the way from eBay for a tenner, hope they're ok to use as the vinyls got twisted out of shape badly in storage. They're currently taped flat to a board to see if it helps.

Edited by Harrypotter
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10 hours ago, Harrypotter said:

 

Have some academy tracks on the way from eBay for a tenner, hope they're ok to use as the vinyls got twisted out of shape badly in storage. They're currently taped flat to a board to see if it helps

 

Thanks for the info on the PE.

A suggestion for your warped tracks. Dunk them in boiling water for about 10 seconds then pull gently on each end until they cool. That should straighten them. If not, dunk for progressively longer periods until it does. If you leave them in for longer and pull harder, you can actually stretch the tracks... which means you can 'droop' them over the wheels rather than have them looking tight.

 

Rearguards

Badder

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1 hour ago, Badder said:

Thanks for the info on the PE.

A suggestion for your warped tracks. Dunk them in boiling water for about 10 seconds then pull gently on each end until they cool. That should straighten them. If not, dunk for progressively longer periods until it does. If you leave them in for longer and pull harder, you can actually stretch the tracks... which means you can 'droop' them over the wheels rather than have them looking tight.

 

Rearguards

Badder

 

Thanks for the tip, might give it a go if I don't like the academy tracks. 

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The Academy tracks are a scutter to put together, but they do look the part once on the model. Patience is the key to making them up and I would recommend doing one track run, then having a break for a day or two, then do the other one. It can take a few hours to get one run done.

 

To give you an idea of how they look, here's my Hungarian StuG III from last year:

 

Magyar StuG 05

 

Magyar StuG 04

 

Mike.:)

Edited by MikeR
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7 hours ago, MikeR said:

The Academy tracks are a scutter to put together, but they do look the part once on the model. Patience is the key to making them up and I would recommend doing one track run, then having a break for a day or two, then do the other one. It can take a few hours to get one run done.

 

To give you an idea of how they look, here's my Hungarian StuG III from last year:

 

Magyar StuG 05

 

Magyar StuG 04

 

Mike.:)

Thanks Mike. 

 

Do they need the academy wheels or are the tamiya ones ok? 

 

Assuming this is a tamiya kit of course ☺

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It is indeed a Tamiya StuG III under all that resin, brass and Dragon bits!;) The running gear is different since yours is a IV, but I don't think there'd be any issues with the main wheels, return rollers and the idler. There is a possibility that the teeth on the drive sprocket may not fit, but you could always carefully sand them where the track wraps round if that happens.

 

Mike.:)

Edited by MikeR
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2 hours ago, MikeR said:

There is a possibility that the teeth on the drive sprocket may not fit, but you could always carefully sand them where the track wraps round if that happens.

That's a great tip for those who aren't mad/OCD/rich enough to go to the lengths of buying the 'corrective' sprocket wheel sets. As you say, simply sand off the teeth where the track wraps around.

But I would modify that and say cut the teeth off as close as possible to the 'rim' and sand the rim down smooth, then slot the amputated teeth into the tracks before wrapping them around the 'bald spots' on the wheels.

 

Rearguards

Badder

 

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On reading what I wrote, I should have made it a bit clearer that I was referring to the Tamiya StuG IV's running gear! Apologies if I've confused anyone!:banghead: The Academy StuG IV is for all intents a copy of the Tamiya one, so the Academy tracks should fit the Tamiya with out any problems. If not, then the drive sprocket from the Academy track set should cover that potential issue.

 

I've also realised that I've made another boo-boo in that I've realised that I actually used AFV Club's track on my StuG III, not the Academy set. Double :banghead:!

 

Mike.:blush:

Edited by MikeR
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Started building up the tracks last night, they will need the Academy drive sprocket - the teeth on the Tamiya ones won't engage the tracks properly because the Tamiya wheel is 1-2 mm wider. 

 

The Academy tracks are nice to work with though.

Edited by Harrypotter
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Chips. 

 

Chips with everything...

 

20170924_105118

 

20170924_102242

 

Started to pin wash the hull after a yellow ochre filter. 

 

Been using raw umbest oils as burnt umbest didn't pop for me, and I have no van dyke Brown.

 

Edited by Harrypotter
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