Dr. Fiat Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 1 hour ago, shood23 said: Great start to the build darin the tyres do look so much better and it's an ingenious way to install them. Shaun Thank you Shaun!!! I especially like that 30 years from now, they will still be the same. Silicone is SO much more stable over time vs. rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_1984 Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Those tyres do look good. I'm tempted, but not sure I can justify the price tbh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 I knew I would regret NOT having them more than acquiring a little more debt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 I started working on the front and rear shocks. The plastic units in the kit and the cheap metal pistons are not particularly realistic, and the turned aluminum pieces from the transkit are much better. I decided to replace the stock pot metal pistons with actual stainless steel pistons from my old 1/8 scale R/C trucks. I also made bump stops for the shocks using a silicone septum and a boring tool. It adds quite a bit or realism- and I will complete these by applying the Ohlins decals from Paul Koo and attaching air hoses to the shock body. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted September 24, 2017 Author Share Posted September 24, 2017 Continued working on the rear shocks. The rear shocks from the actual car are shown below on the left: There are two pressure adjustment valves on the lower cap- these are not present in the Pocher kit. But there are photoetched pieces in Tommaso's transkit that I used to make my own. I first cut out, sanded, and glued the PE flange to the cap, then drilled a 0.8mm hole in the center. Into this hole I CA glued a M0.8 hex bolt from Autograph, and it fits nicely. Note also the nice PE adjustment ring that is on the shock body- this is also from the transkit. Still to come is the Ohlins decal, and perhaps I will try to make the rubber bushings for the pivot points as are shown in the real units. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 very nice enhancements 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrejet Posted September 26, 2017 Share Posted September 26, 2017 Those look sooo cool: nice work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Bradshaw Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Wow it looks fantastic...you are doing a fab job. im a bit further along with mine but I'm going slow as I don't want it to end! I'll be following this closely mate. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted September 28, 2017 Author Share Posted September 28, 2017 Thanks Mark- that means a lot!! I'm in Brazil this week, but should be able to resume soon 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Bradshaw Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 Tip I found out tonight The manual says put the back and side inside panels in first then dash but I couldn't get the dash in until I took out the side panels then the dash went in(just) then the side panels. How do you post a picture? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Error Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 Really wonderful! Nice add-on kit parts! I have the same Pocher-car in my kit-queue. There will be some time before I start building mine, but it will be very interesting to follow your progress! I will buy some add-on kit parts for mine, but I have not made up my mind yet. Keep on the good work! 8-D 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 On 9/28/2017 at 5:12 PM, Mark Bradshaw said: Tip I found out tonight The manual says put the back and side inside panels in first then dash but I couldn't get the dash in until I took out the side panels then the dash went in(just) then the side panels. How do you post a picture? Hi Mark- posting pictures is quite easy. I use Flickr, and have had no issues with this for the last 4 years. I use my Iphone to take these pictures, and use the Flickr app to upload those pictures to my Flickr photostream. Every picture in your photostream has it's own URL, or webpage. All you do is open Flickr, click on the picture you want to include in your Britmodeller post, and go up to the address bar and copy the link. Simply paste the link in your post and the picture will show up beautifully. You don't have to use Flickr, but it has been a reliable photo sharing app for me Good luck! Darin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Bradshaw Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Great I'm on I've been on Flickr for ten years https://www.flickr.com/photos/markbradshaw/ ill take ale pics and put the here...thanks mate. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted October 2, 2017 Author Share Posted October 2, 2017 Working on the brake rotors, compliments of Tommaso Iuele's transkit. The hub is black, with silver screws. I had to do a bit of creative masking with some fake eyeballs that my wife had in her stash. There is nothing like a steel rotor for realism..... Enjoy! Darin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 I decided that since the part count for this Pocher kit + transkit is over 2000 pcs., I had better create an organizing box for all these tiny nuts and bolts and fittings. Tidiness will be a must on this project!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjfk2002 Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 For organizing the PE sheets I like using Manila folders for each sheet and then tucking the folders into a plastic pocket file. It is really easy to get to each sheet and keeps them flat 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 4 minutes ago, rjfk2002 said: For organizing the PE sheets I like using Manila folders for each sheet and then tucking the folders into a plastic pocket file. It is really easy to get to each sheet and keeps them flat Great suggestion!!!! I'm actually enjoying NOT following the manual, and skipping around to different sections and applying the transkit details as I go. I hope I don't regret this soon....!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Rear shock absorbers finished. In my view, next to the intake manifold and the carbon fiber rocker cover, these rear shocks are the most visible and distinct functional parts of this model when the rear hatch is opened. The number of coils on these springs is inaccurate, and I could have cut, stretched, and heat treated these to be more true to scale- but the model is quite heavy, and the lessened spring constant k would perhaps result in significant sag. I did search online for custom springs, but I couldn't find a match. I used MicroSet for the first time here, lightly brushing the aluminum surface. The decals (from Paul Koo) were easy to move around and manage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Bradshaw Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Lovely work...you are about 1000% more organised than I am. Enjoying seeing how it should be done 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted October 6, 2017 Author Share Posted October 6, 2017 Applying some transkit photoetch pieces for the foot pedals. I'm choosing the left-drive configuration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrejet Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Great work: it does also show how clunky the Pocher parts are - and how badly they need the PE! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Tip: to eliminate frayed cut edges on your carpets, go to fabric or craft store and get 'FrayCheck' liquid. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted October 6, 2017 Author Share Posted October 6, 2017 3 hours ago, Codger said: Tip: to eliminate frayed cut edges on your carpets, go to fabric or craft store and get 'FrayCheck' liquid. Thank you for the suggestion Codger! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 I just bought some from Amazon for doing the seats around the seat belt holes on the F-40. It was about $6.50 for a small tube. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Fiat Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 It is fitting that the showpiece of the Aventador engine is the intake and rocker cover- and even better when prepared by the hands of a master:). Thank you Ron (Silver911) for adding your magic to this very important piece, and making it true to scale! The texture and color is a perfect match to the actual engine. For the bolts/washers, I used one washer and rivet from the transkit, and the other three were kindly provided by Ron (Hiroboy socket-head rivets). I am certain that I will use these bolts/washers for all of the cylinder head work, as they are one piece! The transkit washers have to be removed and prepared individually, and then the rivets added. I have really been impressed with the teamwork shown on this site, and a genuine willingness to help. This greatly enhances the building experience! Thank you again Ron!! Darin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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