BlackMax12 Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 (edited) This is a Panther G Steel Wheel version I finished a while back but now I have ditched the Dragon DS rubber band tracks and added a set of Friulmodel ATL08 late Panther tracks. I also attempted my second whitewash job. Need more practice as this still looks sort of Holstein cowish. It's an easy process but I'm still taking too much white off I think and the 3 colour original camo scheme doesn't show very well so maybe too thick a white coat??? It's essentially a new model so I thought it deserved it's own thread. Notice the crew hung a used track link on the right rear with a broken off guide horn. Don't know why they would do that but toothbrushes are hard on glued -on guide horns and of course it disappeared immediately. Edited August 17, 2017 by BlackMax12 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris B Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 Those winter camo looks very good. If I can I would suggest to add some white streaking lines imitating the falling white camo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 Good idea Chris. I'll try that on this Tiger I I'm building that's also going to have the whitewash treatment. Lloyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 I tried that streaking with diluted white paint and it didn't work out that well. Probably should have tried dry brushing instead but only thought of that after I had tried wet paint. To cover it up I sprayed some more hairspray on the glacis and added more off white and some vigorous toothbrushing. The glacis is missing that big dark patch in the middle now and I think it actually looks better with several smaller patches rather than one big. Still have lots to learn about whitewashing and weathering in general and I need a cheap something to play with. These Meng, Dragon, Takom and Rye Field kits at Cdn$100 or more per kit are too rich to use as test beds. I was lucky that 1/16 Panzer IV turned out decent and I hope I can duplicate that job but it seems like everything I touch is unique, some ok and some not so much. Still mostly fun though and I'm retired so lots of time. Lloyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris B Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Sorry, I should mention that the best for those streaks is the oil paint. You have lots of time for work with it, and if you not happy you can remove it with white spirit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 great work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 Thanks Mick Chris, I don't have any oils as the boss lady sort of made me switch to "not evil smelling" acrylics a few years back so it's pretty much Tamiya now and a spray booth with a good fan and filter setup. Once I work up the nerve again I'll try dry brushing some white in less obvious places than the glacis where boo boos jump right out. Lloyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 Re-whitewashed the glacis and added some more chipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzby061 Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Looks good. I'm doing a similar scheme on a Dragon Panther A but using guache. The theory is that it would replicate the "slapped on with a broom & then worn" look. Time will tell. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 (edited) Hi Lloyd, Not quite up to the standard of your StuG, which was superb, but definitely better with the extra whitewash on the glacis. The good thing about whitewash is you can always add more if you think it needs it. After all, the crew didn't just slap one lot on and leave it to weather until it was gone. They would re-apply it whenever it was needed. So, you too can re-apply it! Give it a go, but don't go to far the other way! Pristine whitewash is too overpowering IMHO. And, continuing on the same theme, if I may question the 'white' on the lower hull behind the wheels? Is that meant to be whitewash or is it compacted snow, frost, or ice? I doubt the crew would have whitewashed behind there, so I assume the latter. If so, I think some texture would be the icing on the cake. Great to see your two winter camos today. It's the hardest thing to do, I think, so keep at it... as will I. Rearguards Badder Edited August 19, 2017 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 Thanks Badder Actually it needs more muck behind the wheels and tracks as you're probably right about the lack of whitewash back there. I'll get back to it eventually, just wanted to use that set of Friul tracks I've been sitting on and figured another whitewash job would be more practice. Also have to be more careful with the brush as I see there's another track guide horn missing on the turret side rack. Apparently they aren't glued on as solid as they should be. Right now I'm attempting a Rye Field Model Tiger I with interior and it's keeping me occupied. Thanks Pete I guess that's how they did apply the whitewash in the field so I'm looking forward to seeing it worn and weary. Lloyd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 Buzby How do you do a whitewash job using gouache? All I've ever heard about is the hairspray, paint and scrub method. I'm learning all kinds of new things and if that method is easier than the hairspray then I'm all for it. I've discovered that the hairspray/scrubbing method is hard on fine details as I keep knocking them off, of course never to be seen again as usual. Lloyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullbasket Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Sorry to say Lloyd, but it looks like a Panther that's had white wash cammo applied and it's started to peel off. Looks good to me. John. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 Thanks John I guess that's what it's supposed to represent so mission accomplished sort of but it does need more crud around the running gear and since I have some spare Friul track links I'll have to see if I can get the Dragon links missing teeth replaced. Dentists don't make house calls which I couldn't afford anyway. Lloyd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 (edited) Some final tweaks before putting this thing away. Added some more muck to the running gear and the hull sides under the fenders. Added some light rust in spots on the bare metal areas. It barely shows but it's there. Cut some guide teeth off the old DS tracks and replaced those on the spare links I had knocked off with the toothbrush. Not quite the same but better than nothing. Added an antenna. I know it's the RFI forum but these are fixes from comments and self-induced mistakes. I'll consider it done. In those first two pics you sure can tell the suspension isn't workable but the tracks are. Three wheels are off the ground which probably wouldn't happen on a 40+ ton tank. Don't pose like that again dummy!!! Edited August 20, 2017 by BlackMax12 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Well, it has to be said, that's looking much better. The mud on the glacis, running gear and lower hull really makes a difference. I still say your StuG is better, but that might be down to my love for the little bleeders. Or maybe my brain has been affected by the overpowering smell of Dil and Basil (used in the making of a tree for my current diorama) Whatever, I look forward to seeing your winter camo T34. Rearguards, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 Winter camo T34?? I don't have one.........yet. I'm not a big fan of Russian armour but there are a couple at the LHS, a T34/76 and a T34/85 which I prefer. The 85 is the AFV kit with the clear upper hull and turret which I will paint but it has a complete interior which turns me off. Thanks for your comments and inspiration. There's a Dragon G2 Jagdpanther in the 3 colour scheme that's been sitting in the case for a while now and I still need more practice on this hairspray/scrubbing technique so I wonder if he will volunteer. After the whitewash it's just like a new model after all's said. Lloyd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Great looking finish! Very well done. Kind regards, Stix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMax12 Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Thanks Plastix Second attempt at whitewash, still got lots to learn and the most important is can I ever do the same finish twice? That little Stug III turned out pretty decent for a first attempt but this Panther and the G2 Jagdpanther I did last aren't as good. Maybe it's because the Stug has all kinds of weird angles, and it's lots smaller, don't know. I'm working on a T-34/85 that I'd planned to whitewash but now I'm having second and third thoughts about that. Lloyd 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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