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Best 1/48 f4u-1 kit


Mike Esposito

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Navy870 ... ive considered the Hase 4 a decent kit i have no problem with raised panel lines. Considering i am an old school monogram builder. Ive built a couple of -5's from hase they also have there little idiosyncrasies. If i could find a -4 id grab it. Im not very familiar with the academy or hobbycraft kits so i cant judge them. 

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2 areas I prefer the Hobbyboss kit to the Tamiya one is the clear wingtip lights and the window frames are more defined, whereas they're vague on the Tamiya kit.   I prefer the 1/72 Tamiya kit to the 1/48th one.  Almost all the same detail but more defined window frames.

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3 hours ago, SeaVenom said:

2 areas I prefer the Hobbyboss kit to the Tamiya one is the clear wingtip lights and the window frames are more defined, whereas they're vague on the Tamiya kit.   I prefer the 1/72 Tamiya kit to the 1/48th one.  Almost all the same detail but more defined window frames.

Which tamiya kit? The birdcage?

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17 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Mike ... ok in just a cursory search of corsairs at vella la vella & Munda i have seen corsairs from VMF's 212, 214, 215, 222, 223, & 225. I have seen side #'s 884, maybe #841 in the fields boneyard ( maybe 841 because the side is covered in a lot of dust). I have VMF-212 side #911 at VLV. I have a VMF-214 -1 taking off caption claims Boyington often flew this aircraft it has the #91 on the landing bay door. I have another photo of #891 which is a -1 converted with a -1a hood, the photo shows the rear windows underneath the -1a hoodI have a photo listed as VMF-214 side# 000 but the number is located just behind cowling ring so it may be a promotional shot.  I have Boyington posing in 1a #883. Side #883 is shown in the scrap pile at a later date and is listed as being with VMF-215. VMF-214 with #777, VMF-223 with # 590. VMF-222 with #576. VMF-225 side #435.

     From the Munda airfield in august '43 i have seen VMF-215 with side #76 (sideart is spirit of 76). So to recap i have the following photo's and aircraft from Vella LaVella in November/December '43.

VMF-212 #911

VMF-214 #'s 777, 884, 891, 000,

VMF-215 # 883, 841 at munda w'# 76

VMF-222 # 576

VMF-223 # 590

VMF-225 # 435

 

As previously established in this post and per Navy Regs. Squadrons/pilots shared aircraft so you would be safe to use any of these i believe. Now in my stash of decals i have the temains of two decal sets from the 1/48th Tamiya birdcage i have from superscale markings for other planes squadrons not related to Boyington.  Probably not really helpful but let me know. 

 

Dennis

Hi Dennis. Are the Tamiya decals ok? From previous experience, they are somewhat thick...

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Not sure what you refer to as thick? Our definition may be different for that. As for the remains i have when i used them they worked fine and settled on my kits with no problems. But as i have used all types of decals over my tenure as a modeler, my perspective may be skewed. Like my post said they're remnants. Neither has anything pertaining to VMF-214 so not sure if they will be of much use. I can look at them and the Superscale sheet i have again and will post a description of each.

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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3 hours ago, Mike Esposito said:

Are the Tamiya decals ok? From previous experience, they are somewhat thick...

 

Hi Mike

see 

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235008098-dealing-with-thick-decals-ie-tamiya/

On 29/08/2016 at 23:26, Gary C said:

The best way to get all Japanese decals ( Fujimi, Hasegawa, Tamiya etc)to work as they're supposed to is use hot water and the correct setting solutions. You'll need a bottle each of Gunze Mr Setter and Mr Softer. Micro sol and others won't work as they're formulated differently. Do not use Gunze on Microscale or Cartograf decals as it will chew right through them.

Dip the decal in hot water, it doesn't need to be boiling but it does need to be fairly hot. The temperature of a drinkable tea will do. The glue is heat activated and is what makes up most of the thickness. If you dip it in cold water you'll spend the rest of the day waiting and cursing.

Lay down some Mr Setter, this is in the blue bottle. It acts as an additional glue. Slide the decal onto it and into postion and leave it alone. The decal should wrinkle a little.

Give it 10 mins or so and go over the decal with a brush with a little Mr Softer (green bottle) on it. Use sparingly as it is extremely hot. Too much and it will damage the paint, especially the weaker acrylics. The decal will now wrinkle a lot. Do not touch it as it is almost liquified at this point.

Once it is dry it will have smoothed out and will lay down beautifully over just about any raised or recessed detail you care to think of. Used properly it is probably the best conforming decal process in the industry. Used incorrectly and you'll be just another guy complaining about crap Japanese decals.

 

Not tried  it, but have posted the info  before  and  it has been  a positive response.

I suspect a lot  can be  done with very hot water alone.

 

HTH

T

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Thanks troy ... ive seen the quoted info from you before i always use very warm water(almost to hot) on all my decals. So maybe thats why i dont notice tamiya issues like others have. 

   

     Mike now that i have a reference to "thick" vs "thin" i'll stay with thick Tamiya's.  I've used super thin eduard decals from an eduard Fw-190 and the kit was ruined in my estimation. The upper wing crosses curled and never straightened back out. And i didnt have any spares in 1/72 to replace them. So I guess i would say i prefer thicker decals. 

 

But its youre kit/build i would say use what you are most comfortable with.

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Mike, 

     Ok my Superscale sheet is untouched and stored since purchase in a plastic sleeve. It is #48-572 you maybe able to find photo reference's in a google search. But this sheet includes four 1a's the first two corsairs both are -1a's from VF-17. I have nothing personal against the Squadron but it does seem they always get a bit more publicity over other units from the Solomon campaign.

    Side #'s are #9 Lt. Merle Davenport Ondonga '43. 

     Side # 34 is Lt.Jg. Doris Freeman Ondonga '43. 

     The other two options are both 1a's as well and are

     #056 noseart "Mary" from VMF-122 Peleliu 1944.

     #850 Noseart "Bayou Baby" from VMF-217 on Guam 1943.

 All are Tri tone camouflage. As for the Tamiya decals i have the nightfighter -2 birdcage Black george available as well as another VF-17 plane side #13. It reads in the early style of "17-F-13." The other sheet is actually from the 1D kit so im not certain it will help you at all. I apologize as i thought they were both -1 decal sheets. If anything is of interest let me know. 

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