Jump to content

Colourcoats....Are they good?


fightersweep

Recommended Posts

Hi all;

 

As the title says, I've just taken the plunge and ordered the Luftwaffe Colourcoats set from Sovereign Hobbies. I've not used these before, having an already massive stash of Humbrols, Gloys and Airfix paints, but I was curious!

 

I'm looking at using these mostly for brush painting, so I was wondering how they compare to other brands and if there is any advice for a Colourcoats newbie.

 

Thanks in advance;

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

Great paints , I used Revell  but tried these paints

Only use a hairy stick

Shake well then stir then stir then when you think you've stirred enough stir again

Treat same as any enamel  give 24 hrs before second coat

Colour is good and coverage excellent

My choice of paint now

Can you tell I,m a fan :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply! Sounds good to me! Most of the paints I have are old and they work beautifully, especially with a hairy stick, but I was curious about Colourcoats and very impressed with the range.

The should turn up in the next couple of days, so looking forward to trying them. Thanks for the advice!

 

I do have an airbrush, but I'm afeared of it. I occasionally open the cupboard it lives in and poke it with a stick. I don't think it likes me. I really must try to master it's sourcerers ways and start using it!

 

Best regards;

Steve

Edited by fightersweep
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's interesting to hear. I have several tins of Revell paint, but I remember reading somewhere ages ago that they were supposed to by rubbish. Therefore, I've never opened one! Silly really. I should have tried them myself and made up my own mind!

 

 

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before I start a model I sort out the colours . turning the tins upside down  then turn back after a couple days then turn again

This way the paint is mixed and when I come to use it a good shake and stir

Paint from end of subject to other

Leave 24hr then paint from end you finished on to other

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I brush-paint too and use Colourcoats (and Humbrol enamels and Tamiya acrylics). They need to be stirred and stirred again before use. Their range is good and colour accuracy excellent, my only problem is that some don't cover too well (but that's probably due to me). Some people on here (Procopious and Stew Dapple come to mind) spray them, and spray them very well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's good to read this.

 

For practical health reasons I need to go back to hairy stick. I need some colours for Netherlands and Netherlands Easy Indies aircraft, Colourcoats seem to be the only company that have dedicated, researched shades.

 

There's just one outlet here and they have to be ordered in. I'll do it; order the set. It sounds worth the wait.

 

Just one question, I know it sounds like they're thin, but just in case we wanted to thin them even more, what would you recommend? Would Humbrol enamel thinners be ok?

 

Best regards

TonyT

 

PS: Just ordered all the Dutch colours :yahoo:.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, fightersweep said:

Thanks for the reply! Sounds good to me! Most of the paints I have are old and they work beautifully, especially with a hairy stick, but I was curious about Colourcoats and very impressed with the range.

The should turn up in the next couple of days, so looking forward to trying them. Thanks for the advice!

 

I do have an airbrush, but I'm afeared of it. I occasionally open the cupboard it lives in and poke it with a stick. I don't think it likes me. I really must try to master it's sourcerers ways and start using it!

 

Best regards;

Steve

 

Thanks for trying us! I have now put two and two together and believe I know exactly which Luftwaffe colours you have on the way :) If it matters especially, the Colourcoats Luftwaffe WW2 colours are all matched to Jurgen Kiroff's chips as published in the K.A. Merrick and J. Kiroff's 2 volume series Luftwaffe Camouflage & Markings 1933-1945

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Luftwaffe-Camouflage-Markings-Classic-Colours/dp/1903223385

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Luftwaffe-Camouflage-Markings-1933-1945-Classic/dp/1903223393/ref=pd_cp_14_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RJARCEJ32NMM2VJ44KDE

 

What type of airbrush equipment do you have? I find it easier than brush painting to be honest. I'd be happy to give Colourcoats-specific advice on spraying it.

 

I don't know if you read Scale Aviation Modeller International magazine, but a regular contributor called Jay Blakemore has been a Colourcoats user for all his builds this past year or so and offers one-to-one airbrush lessons in the East Midlands, although that may be a bit far for you admittedly! https://www.jaysmodelart.co.uk/

490b94_c15f8ecb6fb444d8b9739881357180cd~

Jay's Eduard 1/48 Bf110C as featured in SAMI September 2017 painted with some of the colours in the set you have on the way.

 

If you want to ask anything, feel free to contact me through PM here, via our website email address or via our Facebook page. Thanks again for giving us a go!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Jamie;

 

Thanks for the reply, and I'm glad to be a new customer! I'm sure I will be back for more as I really like the range....next on the list will no doubt be an Azure Blue.

 

As for the airbrush: Well. I bought a Badger Crescendo waaaaaay back in about 1992. Nice brush (especially for a large scale nut like me) but it's been used exactly once. When I set out to try and tackle air brush painting, I will probably buy another brush and compressor, so I will probably be looking for some recomendations. If I'm absolutely honest, I've been a bit scared to try my airbrush, despite the fact I have everything I need. It's silly really!

 

Best regards;

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That airbrush will work fine if you have or obtain the fine needle and nozzle for it. Fine is sufficient for pretty much all modelling purposes.

 

If you take a look at my forum section under the traders bitty there is a Youtube video intro to spraying Colourcoats with all the set up variables covered such as thinning ratios, pressure to spray at, distance from the model, needle opening etc.

 

Just get some plasticard and give it a bash. What's the worst that can happen? :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

Just get some plasticard and give it a bash. What's the worst that can happen? :)

 

...Well, considering you're talking to the Frank Spencer of modelling! :drunk:

 

Seriously though, I did try the Crescendo out a few years ago and found that it wasn't as disaterous as I thought it would be. I managaed to successfully paint the cockpit of my 1/24 Spitfire and found the whole process a bit of a revelation. My main problem has been the lack of a good working space. We're planning on moving next year, so that should solve my problem. In the meantime, I hope to get started practicing with the airbrush, firstly on paper and plastic card to get used to it all again. I do like using a brush though. I think I've finally mastered it after all these years and get finishes that please me, and that's saying something as I'm my own worst critic. Can't mottle properly with a paint brush though!

 

I'll certainly check out the Youtube videos and let you know how I get on. Must say that I'm appreciating the post sales communication. That's top notch customer service!

 

Best regards;

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only way to get efficient with your airbrush is to practice. As already stated get some plastic card or an old kit to learn on. Main thing is to thin the paint correctly so that it sprays properly. Too thick and it will spatter, too thin and it won't cover or it will run. You have to get the mixture just right. Also experiment with the air pressure as this can make a big difference. It can be a steep learning curve, but once mastered it really is an invaluable tool that can be used to devastating effect. It's worth persevering with it..

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd submit that with the pressure down low and a small nozzle and needle, there's almost no such thing as "too thin" using enamels or lacquers such as Alclad or MRP. The key is to keep the paint flow minimum, keep moving and be patient. Even with enamels, often dismissed due to long drying times as a result of lathering it on far too thick, it flashes off to touch dry between passes. I'd say between coats but people might interpret that as tidying up and leaving it for a period. I literally mean the time it takes to get from one end of the model to the other and return to the starting point again.

 

By having it so thin you get a tremendous degree of control over the paint film and opacity which is great for using any of the popular shading and toning techniques. It took me a long time using the milk consistency to see the light and go much thinner, closer and at lower pressure. It has so many advantages that I wish it was how I learned to do it from the outset.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

It took me a long time using the milk consistency to see the light and go much thinner, closer and at lower pressure. It has so many advantages that I wish it was how I learned to do it from the outset.

 

Hi Jamie, I should have mentioned that I speak as a car/bike model maker, so I very rarely go down that thin with the paint. However I concur that very thin paint is useful when shading and creating special effects, shadows etc..

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...