Vinnie Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 Hello. I keep getting this kit out, looking at and putting it away. Although it looks a very nice kit I really don't know how to do the rigging. An internet search brought up mention of the DURAS method which is supposed to simplify things, but I can't find what this is. Can anyone help, please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenshirt Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 Googled "duras rigging" and top result: http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3789 I've never used it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinnie Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 22 minutes ago, Greenshirt said: Googled "duras rigging" and top result: http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3789 I've never used it. Thanks, I did see that but it doesn't really explain things in the simple way that I like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Esposito Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 DURAS.. The Klingon warrior council chief?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenshirt Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 1 hour ago, Vinnie said: Thanks, I did see that but it doesn't really explain things in the simple way that I like. As I understand it, you have to plan your rigging by choosing a start point...say the outer, upper, rear strut locating point on the model. Then, before you build the model, drill small holes as close to the attachment points of the struts as possible. The holes must be larger than the rigging material, obviously. Once constructed, you then feed the rigging material (whichever is your favorite) through each hole in sequence, ending at where you determine it best to finish. You pull it all tight at the one ending point and glue it permanent. I can see this working up to a point...where the rigging goes into (and by this method, through) the fuselage could be a problem. Short of telling you step-by-step how I'd do it on a Swordfish, I don't see how much simpler that can be. I've never used this method, so really cannot describe it any simpler. I prefer shallow indentations where I attach stretchy line. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 I do the rigging a simpler way. Before assembly I drilll 0.3mm/0.4mm holes right through the wings near the bases of the struts After assembly I put lengths of very thin nylon fishing line through from one hole to another; using superglue to fix it at the first hole, when that is set, I pull it tight and glue at the second hole. A razor blade trims off the excess. I work from one side to the other alternately, one pair of holes at a time 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seawinder Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 I'm basically with Black Knight on this: I use nylon monofilament, either fishing whippet line, which comes in various diameters, or invisible mending thread, available at sewing outlets. For a 1/72 model, I'd probably go with the latter. I pre-drill holes for the rigging before mounting the upper wing. Where possible, I drill partial holes in the under surface of the upper wing and through holes in the lower wing. Then I usually pre-paint the monofilament using one of those microbrushes. I'd probably use some sort of metallic aluminum for the Swordfish. I cut lengths of the filament -- quite a bit longer than needed -- and CA glue them into the partial holes in the upper wing. Then I attach the upper wing to the lower wing. I thread each of the rigging lines through its corresponding hole in the lower wing. To tension the line, I attach a common wooden clothespin and let it dangle. I then do exactly the same thing as Black Knight. I usually also fill and repaint the holes in the lower wing This method has the advantage of actually adding structural strength to the assembly. It does, however, require the use of very thin drill bits, which tend to be quite fragile -- you'll probably go through a good number of them. The smallest plain steel bits I've found are no. 80, which will be somewhat over-size for invisible thread. There are also online sources for micro-sizes of carbide bits. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 I buy 0.4mm and 0.5mm bits from this seller; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350874172814?var=620162544151 An extra advantage of using nylon fishing line [or invisible thread] is that it can be tightened up after installation, by the very careful use of a hot end of a burning [not flame burning, but glowing red] wood match or wood cocktail stick [aka a wood toothpick] 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted August 7, 2017 Share Posted August 7, 2017 20 hours ago, Vinnie said: I really don't know how to do the rigging I haven't built the Airfix one Vinnie but I did find a way of rigging the old Matchbox Swordfish with just a single run of fishing line, in a manner that lets you tighten the whole thing like a lace: You might be able to modify this process to your own needs? Hth, Tony 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grey Beema Posted August 7, 2017 Share Posted August 7, 2017 I built the Revel Swordfish and I used the method above but I did it one rigging wire at a time. If the upper wing is two part then I only drill through the bottom half before assembly but I drill right through the lower plane. Once ready to rig I superglue the fishing line into the top wing from the underside and wait for it to harden. I then pass the line through the lower wing top to bottom and just before pulling it to tension I glue it then quickly put the tension on pulling some glue into the join. Put a clamp on the line until the glue is hardened.. Hope this helps.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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