Fitting OKB resin track runs

[Robby]

Hi all,

 

Having invested in some of the highly detailed OKB resin ostketten track runs, my attention has turned to how to actually fit them to the model (a flaw in my dastardly detailing plan...). Has anyone got any tips on where to put the join between the two track runs? I thought about the top of the sprocket and the top of the idler wheel, but I thought that I would ask here for advice first.

 

Thanks,

 

Robby

[JackG]

My usual method is to join the final link after the set has been painted (easier that way to colour it up).  Leave the drive sprocket (or sometimes both it and the idler wheel) separate from the hull, attaching them at the same time as the tracks.   If the vehicle has double return rollers and guide teeth on the tracks, there might not be enough clearance under the hull/track guards, so will have to leaver the outer return rollers off until tracks are in place. 

 

--------------------

edit:  should of looked up the product, I see these are not workable tracks, and 1/72 scale?

Yeah, I'd glue them on in sections, and the joints should be mated on the larger wheels (sprocket, idler).

 

regards,

Jack

Edited July 14, 2017 by JackG

[Robby]

Perfect! Thanks JackG, I will follow your advice 

 

- and I'll remember to state which scale I'm working with next time I post here as well 

[SleeperService]

Further to the above. Track sag can be easily added using hot (but not boiling) water. Get the resin warm sag the track and then run under cold water. I must admit that I tend to join two lengths together flat on the bench. If a third section is needed one joint on the flat bottom joint and then the last on the drive sprocket which I glue after painting. 

 

They are a bit fiddly to start but well worth the hassle to learn the technique.

 

[Robby]

Having worked with normal (e.g. CMK) resin, the resin that OKB uses for the track is very flexible and seems to soften up nicely with a couple of passes with SWMBO's hairdryer. It seems to have some 'memory', though (probably due to its flexibility, I am no engineer), which I will try and deal with with using cold water. SleeperService, you're right about it being worth it as the detail is great on the tracks, and learning (and hopefully mastering) a new technique is always so very satisfying