Christer A Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 (edited) Vacation time is looming around the corner. What better time then than to rip of the lid of another kit and get started? Nevermind the Tomahawks, Yak-23, Spitfires, Draken, FJ-4 Fury or all the other projects on the shelf of Doom... Yes, I lack all morals. But I am both married and vaccinated so I can do what I want! Seeing @Antb beating this kit into submission got me thinking "how hard can it be, really?" and despite a 75km cooling bike ride round the countryside I just couldn't get it out of my system. I had to start this! I want to glue things together, sand some filler, add even more filler and sand some more and so on. There's probably a psygologichal explanation for all this, but who cares? All excuses was chucked into the wind (and it blows to the east, as always where I live) so here's the box: This kit is now close to 10 years old, and sometime since the release the general verdict seems to have gone from nice but tricky to overengineered and crap. But I build short runs too, so who cares, eh? Somewhere in this box there's also some Quickboost exhausts, but that's the extent of AM-goodies. It's a Profipack afterall, etch and masks included ! It's generally a good idea to start with the office and follow the instructions. Not me this time! I'd like to start with the wheel wells, and as a result of that the engine nacelles. This is a known pitfall for this bugger so let's grab the beast by the horns and get started. Thera are a lot of tiny pins here... Seems to be made to snap off at a moments notice. No sure indication of wich way everything goes either, but I'm guessing the landing gear should be perpendicular to the ground and the wings should have some kind of V-shape. The instructions could be a little more clear here. A big difference when comparing this to Eduard Spitfires! The engine nacells also recieved a few lightening holes Then I shot some Xtracrylix RLM02 in general direction, hitting most of the wheel wells atleast. Next up, details, wash and assembly! Edited July 11, 2017 by Christer A Seplling mistakes! :-) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antb Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Christer you brave soul! I shall be following along, good luck! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 Thanks! I think I might need it, since I'll also go for the sharkmouth option... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antb Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 16 minutes ago, Christer A said: Thanks! I think I might need it, since I'll also go for the sharkmouth option... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauls9cb Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Christer - Looks like this is another thread I'll retain for when I get round to Eduard's 110 D which I've had sitting on the shelf for a bit. It probably has many of the same issues that the 110 C kit has so I'll eagerly look forward to your progress and tips on the pitfalls. For what has often been maligned for its shortcomings in the BoB, I always think it's a graceful, sleek machine that usually works well as a model. Lots of luck. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteo44 Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 I like Bf-110... This isn't an easy kit, but with calm and patience it will be a good model... Good work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 9 hours ago, Christer A said: Thanks! I think I might need it, since I'll also go for the sharkmouth option... In England we say "You must be a glutton for punishment", not only a rubbish kit but a shark mouth too! Max 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 What can I say? The sharkmouth was the reason for me to buy the kit in the first place... If it fails spectaculary, I'll go for another option! But yes , I probably am a glutton for punishment ButI did manage to put one on an Airfix 1/24 Tiffy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amblypygid Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Here goes! Best of luck, Christer. I'm not sure any of this is propelling my C-6 further up the build queue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 Thanks Chris! Come on now, it's an Eduard Kit, not a Mach2... Let's see what yesterday brought. Wheel wells were painted ant slightly weathered. So far so good! Time to marry the nacelles to the wings, which is the first troublesome area. On top of the wings, there are a few small small pads that the nacell must land on top of. I also noticed that the engine fairing on top of the wing is a lot shorter than what I remember from my Airfix Bf110C (new tool) that I almost completed a few years back. (one of these days I might get back to it, but not now. Oh? I have a WIP for it? Link, but with dead pictures ) Let's do a dryfit of the nacell then and see how bad it is. Yep, there's a step there. Brute force to the rescue! These clamps are a good thing! I run a bead of Tamiya extra thin in the joint between wing and nacelle and let the underside unglued. That will be done in the next step. Atleast I hope that's a good idea. Another thing to look out for is off course the rear of the engine fairing towards the flap. I'm gusees that there shoud be both a step and a gap here, since tha flap moves, but not the nacelle... Time to look at pictures of the real thing, otherwise I'll break out the filler! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Don't fill that flap line!!! The hump on the flap moves inside the aft edge of the nacelle, I'll post a picture later to illustrate. Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amblypygid Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 There's a photo on the Britmodeller walkaround that peripherally shows the gap between the main nacelle and the rear part when the flaps are up. A G-4, but I'm assuming the principle is the same for all models of the Bf 110 (not that I know very much about the type). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 Thanks guys! I'm at work so no filler can be used right now, but I had a hunch that it moved inside tha nacelle somehow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 This is on a G4 but the flap/nacelle arrangement is common for all Bf110s: Max 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 Gaps, and ill fitting parts. I feel right at home with this! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyTiger66 Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 It's good to see you tackling this one Christer. I like Amodel and Sword kits and some of those like a little filler and sandpaper . If you want a real, real challenge, try the Roden He-111 A, B, C or E. I've been slowly doing one for around 18 months now. I've done lots and lots of work (files, sandpaper, rasp, industrial belt sander, 3D molecular analytical entity spatial relationship strobe), yet glued nothing together yet! Shark mouth ? Not the decals, surely not the decals.....? Best regards TonyT 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 28 minutes ago, TonyTiger66 said: Shark mouth ? Not the decals, surely not the decals.....? Best regards TonyT He's a glutton for punishment Tony, or as Captain Mainwaring might say "Stupid boy!" Max 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rui Silva Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Hi Christer, I'm following this topic with attention, I too have an Eduard Bf 110 (E version)... it looks so good in the box and then you read all these "via crucis" experiences and I get tempted to just buy a Dragon/Cyber-Hobby kit, use whatever I can from the Eduard kit and avoid the troubles! So keep the good work, the fate of my kit rests in your hands Rui 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Buy the Dragon kit Rui, you won't be sorry! The instructions are wrong, at best confusing, but corrections are easy enough to find online. Max 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 Don't scare Rui too much Max. Eduards kit might be a challenge, but it's not impossible! Just think Czech short run instead of Tamiya Yes Tony, there will be decals for sharkmouths. After all, I do ha a thing for them: But a Roden early He-111? That's crazy work! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 It's time to bid farewell to the wheel wells for now: Quite please with how that turned out. Flipping the wings over, the situation is quite different. Sand and fill a few times more I think! Atleast it builds character... I also did the main landing gear and had high hopes to run some brake hoses there to add interest. It turns out the the brake hoses are tiny and hardly shows up in 1:1. I had to replace one strut with evergreen stock though since the Eduard parts were 0,5mm too short. Some fine tolerancing at work here! Next up, cockpit and its myriad of tiny tiny plastic parts. So far, the front cockpit contains 16 plastic parts!IMG_20170713_175356 by Christer Andersson, on Flickr This part will be fun! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galgos Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 I like your methodical approach Christer, it's coming along very well. Max 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 Thanks Max! Let's see, first round of filler sanded and polished, and an attempt to reinstate the panel lines have been made. Doesn't look half bad, why not some black Ultimate Primer since the Airbrush was already loaded with the stuff? A ghost seam appears! Those are tricky to get rid of, but I'll try to exorcise it with some sprues dissolved in tamiya extra thin... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever219 Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 If you think some of the cockpit parts in this kit are small you should try the Eduard 1/72nd '110G. Some of the external parts are incredibly fine and are attached to the spruce half way along their length. Hope you get those nacelles and ghost seams sorted. The upper surfaces of the nacelles in the Airfix kit that you referred to are incorrect: they should not extend onto the upper surface of the flaps but merge into the wing upper surfaces around twelve inches, IIRC, forward of the fixed trailing edge. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 I'm a little late to this party - but I find this kit fascinating. I have it in the stash and it scares me to death every time I open the cupboard. I don't know what I was thinking of when I bought it - but hopefully if I tag a long I will learn some more and challenge it one day. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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