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Airfix Westland Sea King HU5


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A bit more detail work done, a whip antenna on the tail area and again another GPS type antenna 

on the spine. The whip antenna was cut from 0.3 carbon rod.

 

I've also added the engine cowl to the front above the cockpit, this took a little filler to blend in.

 

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Cheers 

 

Dan 

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49 minutes ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said:

I’ve done some digging with more recent SAR pilots than me, and the bracket is indded a GPS aerial, providing a feed to the IR kit “so it knows what it’s looking at”

 

Cheers for the info on that, it’s good to know what you are actually scratch building and info on these things are not so common. It’s the next job :D

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Cheers Andy :yes:

 

FLIR fitting, sponson is tacked on with CA glue at this stage just to allow me to line up all the bits, some fettling left 

to do with the turret. It's not glued at his stage.

 

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More later folks 

 

Dan 

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5 hours ago, andyf117 said:

 

Dan

 

Might I suggest that your FLIR unit appears too deep, and is consequently going to project down more than it should? Looks like it's between the mounting bracket and the 'ball' - if you compare with Dolphin38's pic above, you'll see what I mean. Seems to be double the depth in that area......

 

Seen that Andy,    

 

The FLIR turret isn’t fixed yet and in the photos wasn’t pushed fully home, it does need to be reduced in height and it can be cut down further.  :yes:

 

Regards

 

Dan 

 

 

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Really enjoying following this build and wondering if I dare attempt my own version useing the same base kit but using spares from the older AEW kit by Airfix which has a decent intake filter and the larger radome spare in the box.

 

Gondor

Edited by Gondor44
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Cheers chaps :yes:

 

I picked up this book over the Crimbo period and its a well worth the money :D I would say a must if you are converting to a HU5 .

 

 

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A bit of a tidy up for the GPS mount.

 

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Not had much time in the workshop but hope to sort that out soon 

 

 

Dan 

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Just sorting out the base and stand for this build, some perspex rod as the support so 

I needed to fashion a bracket in the hull for this one. Nothing special, brass tube and some plastic card,

I'll probably add some Milliput around the tube just to make sure. The Tamiya tape has been soaked in CA glue 

just to stop the plastic blanking plate from popping off. 

 

I've added the radome and blended it in using Magic Sculpt and the tail is now a permanent fixture, next up is to glue the lower hull 

to the upper.

 

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Cheers for looking 

 

Dan 

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I've not seen this for a while and blimey, it's covered in barnacles! (joke).

 

But seriously, it looks absolutely terrific. And just out of interest, have all the extras added much to the weight of the kit? I'm particularly curious to know about the Green Stuff.

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It’s hard to tell from the recent photos, but (e.g. in post #317) the tail strake looks OK on the tail itself (i.e. aft of the transportation joint / tail wheel), but then goes rather odd on the rear fuselage.  Keep in mind that its purpose is to disrupt the airflow / downdraft on the port side of the tail, which helps the tail rotor (because the starboard side, which has no strake, generates lift in the downdraft, “pulling” thentail to starboard).  As presently configered, your strake wouldn’t work very well.

 

Should be fixable, and the aircraft as a whole is looking excellent.

Edited by Ex-FAAWAFU
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Cheers Chaps,

 

I shall take a closer look at the strake issue and come up with a fix, it shouldn't be to much of an issue ;) I have a PE strake kicking about somewhere which I might use.

 

Timmas,  the Green Stuff  doesn’t really add to much weight to the build, the amounts used are quite small in 72nd scale, it’s only a few grams at the moment. 

 

Happy new year all 

 

Dan 

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Hi Dan, she's looking splendid with all the bits you've added to the fus, looking suitably prickly. Thanks for the heads up on the Haynes manual, my bros is coming out in three weeks time, he can bring one with.

 

If you haven't thought about it already, i think you should replace the tiedown eyes on the fus, sides, they look clunky. JMT, I use a 2.5 mm drill and wind some soft copper (ripcord lamp flexis a good sourse) wire round it then chop off the rings.

 

Colin

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