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Gabriel Hubley Packard Dietrich conv. Victoria 1/22


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I'd never heard of Gabriel/Hubley kits until recently when paul_c posted his tidy build of a 1914 Ford Model T fire truck. This prompted me to do some research and the consequence was acquiring a 1930 Packard Dietrich, a complete and unstarted kit dating from 1974. 

 

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Stickers instead of decals for the dashboard, tail light, number plate, interior trim and whitewall tyres. These haven't aged well, particularly the whitewalls which are faded and pretty much unuseable.  

 

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The rubber tyres are OK but faded. Hopefully they'll clean up.

 

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Lots of flash, some quite heavy.

 

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More flashy metal parts. Sometimes it's difficult to tell where the flash ends and the part begins.

 

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Even the plain plastic parts are quite flashy.

 

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The chrome parts are good and flash-free.

 

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The hardware pack: 3 different types of screw, tubing and a couple of rods for the steering linkages.

 

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I'm looking forward to this build as I've never done a metal 'multimedia' kit before so it will be an entirely new experience.

 

Back soon...

 

 

 

 

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A lot of filling and scraping needed to clean up the chassis. The stuff is hard!

 

 

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Likewise with the fender unit.

 

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There are numerous blind screw holes which have to be drilled out. The instructions don't mention this.

 

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The body side panels after clean up.

 

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Hi activexp,

                      The metal's hard because it's diecast (mazak or zamak) and not the usual soft white metal found in most car kits. A number of manufacturers, even Monogram and Gunze Sangyo used it for a while but it then fell out of favour, probably because it was too hard!

Biggest problem is that it's brittle and nigh on impossible to correct anything but the slightest misalignment.

Looks great after the clean up though. Great start!

Hubley did themselves no favours by choosing an odd scale that didn't tie in with any of the popular scales which is a pity because it looks like a nice kit.

Good luck with the build.

Dave

 

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1 hour ago, Mark_1984 said:

I've got a Hubley Duesenberg sitting in my stash, so I'm looking forward to learning from a master. 

 

Im not a lover of Dremels, but perhaps justified for this model ?

 

A Dremel is definitely justified. I'm on a learning curve working with white metal and have already found that my usual automotive primer isn't bonding well even on clean polished surfaces. I've got some Tamiya fine primer so I'll try that next.

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1 hour ago, Fastcat said:

Hi activexp,

                      

Biggest problem is that it's brittle and nigh on impossible to correct anything but the slightest misalignment.

 

Dave

 

Talking of misalignment, the fender unit had a slight twist in it which I managed to correct without breakage. Lucky. 

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I've built many  of these kits over the years. With care, they can make beautiful display models. One plus of that metal body is you can use automotive lacquer paints that polish out much better than the normal model enamel. 

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Tamiya gloss black spray on the fender unit. 

 

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Satin black on the chassis

 

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Front axle assembly

 

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Back axle assembly.

 

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23 hours ago, gamevender said:

I've built many  of these kits over the years. With care, they can make beautiful display models. One plus of that metal body is you can use automotive lacquer paints that polish out much better than the normal model enamel. 

 

What primer do you recommend for bare metal? 

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I'm at a bit of a disadvantage here as I'm in the states and you're in the uk, so brands are different. I'd either go to the local hardware/home improvement store and ask someone in the paint department or visit an auto maintenance/repair store. They usually sell touch-up paints, some in spray cans, and they will have an appropriate primer. 

Edited by gamevender
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4 hours ago, activexp said:

 

What primer do you recommend for bare metal? 

 

Halford's car primer.  Sticks to most things, including brass.  Not tried it on Zamac, but it's worked on everything else !

Sadly I can't get it out here in Hong Kong :(

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As Mark said, Halfords is a good all-round primer and will take most top coats. As it comes in different colours you can usually use that to advantage. It's a bit coarser than some of the dedicated model primers but with a very light nibbing down with a fine abrasive cloth it's pretty good.

 

Tamiya Primer is finer and needs less cutting back and Gunze 1000 and 1200 finer still. I don't think they give such good coverage or adhesion but they do give a very thin coat that needs less prep before the top coat.

 

Gunze also do a dedicated primer for metal. It's clear so it's difficult to tell how much you've applied.

 

In this scale, Halfords is good because of the coverage and because obscuring the detail isn't such a problem. I'd definitely give it a light rubbing down after it's had a couple of days to harden - it's easier to get a good finish on the top coat this way and gives a better key.

 

Dave

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Also consider Halfords Etch primer as this works on Galvanised metal, so should stick if you think the metal is going to be problematic

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Thanks everyone for your recommendations. I think I'll give the etch primer a go, bit late for this build but will come in handy for future builds.

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Those nice people at Photobucket are holding me to ransom to the tune of $399.99 to restore my pics. Well it's good-bye Photobucket and hello Village Photos.

 

Moving on to the straight 8 engine.  The block, cylinder head and oil pan are cast metal parts.

 

 

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I managed to get my hands on some whitewall decals from Intradecal which happened to be exactly the right size :)  A little tricky to apply, very thin and prone to breaking up. The supplied whitewall stickers weren't fit for purpose.

 

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The hood/bonnet with chrome plated radiator.

 

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The completed body tub with dashboard and interior trim stickers.

 

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The completed rolling chassis. No working steering though, gave up trying to get the tiny worm gear to mesh.

 

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