NS60 Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 HI Guys this is my second MFH build but the first time on this site, so please bare with me if I cock things up. So this is the full detail kit of the famous Ferrari 315 as raced at Le Mans in 1957. I decided to start with the wheels as each has 148 parts to them, MFH give you 2 jigs as there are 2 different tyre widths. The wheels are different to the 250 kit we have compared them and these seemed easier to assemble. I built 3 jigs after measuring the length of each layer of spokes there are 6 in total, so I could cut the spokes to the correct length in batches. The instructions take a bit of reading to understand how the spokes are offset as you can see in the pictures. I secured the sleeve onto the spoke with superglue and added a tiny amount onto the end of the spoke to attach to the hub, once each layer was completed I used a UV setting glue around the rim to secure. Then once all 6 layers were done I used 5 minute epoxy around the rim to make sure none of the little suckers would come loose. The center hub had been polished and now used satin varnish to seal it.Finally adding the air valve and tyre. You get 4 turned rims and 1 cast rim for the spare wheel, next I assembled the spare wheel cage and painted it this was soldered together, finally the leather strap was made and added. Next the engine. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrejet Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 Wow. I have admired MFH car kits from afar for many years (starting with their first (?) - the 1/43 250 GTO or Cobra back in the early 1990s I think?) and one day I'll take the plunge. For now, you are living my dream: this is probably the kit I'd have gone for! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 really nice start to this, the wheels look spot on. Regards Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_1984 Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Fantastic looking wheels. How easy/difficult was it drilling the holes in the hub at the right angles ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NS60 Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 Didn't drill right through, unless you want to spend 6 mths per wheel measuring the angle as all different and length of spoke forget it. I cheated by drilling each of the indents MFH give you with the next size up drill about half a mil deeper. A small amount of SG holds it at the correct angle till the uv glue on the rim sets. Hope that makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_1984 Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Neat trick !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NS60 Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share Posted June 26, 2017 First thing I did was to build an engine jig so the block etc could be held without having to handle the engine in later stages, learning from experience its easy to 'knock' bits off. The engine block and cylinder heads are resin with everything else white metal, the block was sprayed Tamiya grey metallic with the cylinder heads AK extreme metal Aluminium, just to give a contrast between all the metallic colors. The rocker covers were polished with a wire brush in a Dremel then given a coat of Tamiya Titan Gold, the rocker cover has indents for the polished bolts these were drilled out and the bolts polished and fitted. The instructions show the inlet manifolds and carbs fitted to one side of the cylinder head then the other, after lots of swearing I couldn't get it to line up, the clearance is literally the thickness of paint. So I assembled both cylinder heads and all 3 carbs/manifolds in one go with epoxy and masking tape to hold together until set. There is a slight twist in the last manifold but if I move it any more it it wont line up. Next I added various pipes and valves, end plates etc, these were white metal polished up and given washes of dark grey and brown. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 very nice. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NS60 Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 More pictures of the engine, almost finished just needs wiring. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrejet Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 It's a jewel! I think this may be my way into at least getting something MFH: I am going to start looking at their engines. Maybe a Typ 912 to start with... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NS60 Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 Definitely their engines are models in their own right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamg1987 Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Engine looks fantastic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NS60 Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 The gearbox and diff are like the engine, a mixture of resin and white metal. These were airbrushed AK steel and detailed with AK aluminium and brass. Finally given a wash of oils. I'm not going for the museum look this is a vehicle that has been raced. The horizontal bar and hub assemblies were painted dark grey and had a black wash added. Horizontal rear leaf spring ready for paint. Chassis assembled ready for paint, there are 13 parts to this a mixture of white metal and resin. The two main structures are held together with epoxy and 4 screws. The front cross member where the front wheels mount is hooked onto the rails to get the correct angle. Little bit of filler to hide the joint. Rear cage over the gearbox and axle. Chassis painted and detailed, gearbox fitted. Tresels made out of coffee stirrers, somewhere to rest it and masking tape added down the sides to protect against fingerprints etc. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_1984 Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Even the trestles (I assume a temporary construction aid) look immaculate !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Jampton Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Simply stunning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NS60 Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 Hi guys thanks for your comments really appreciated. Ok so on with the build, the rear leaf spring is added made up of PE parts and white metal ends. The arms for the rear dampers are added as well. Exhaust manifolds polished and weathered/stained with oils. Next the engine and propshaft need to be fitted in, might need a 3rd trestle the engine is a heavy lump and I dont want the chassis to bend or snap in the middle. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 You want to send these pictures to MFH, they would increase their sales by 50% if they used them. Brilliant work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astonman Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 If you get a moment could you expand on how you used oils on the exhausts? They look really realistic. I am about to commence a 1/12.Porsche 917 and as I have never soldered before, I would also be interested in any hints or tips you might have in that area. Your build looks SO methodical and logical - really impressive. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NS60 Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 Thank you for your comments, the exhaust is white metal so I polished it with a brass wire wheel in a dremel. Next start at the manifold and add a wash of Paynes grey oil to the area, next add some burnt sienna wash and pull it down the pipe getting more transparent as you get away from the manifold, finish off with a small amount of yellow ochre. I stayed away from blue that you see on modern stainless exhaust systems as this is a 1950's car. I've built the Porsche 917 so I think I know the parts you are wanting to solder, get a good varible heat soldering iron with low melting point solder and flux. Practice on bits of the sprues till you feel confident enough to tackle the cage. There is a you tube video on soldering the cage its in 3 parts but is in Japanese. Any way good luck, make sure you drill out all the mounting holes so the frame pins sit right down and the frame is square, the tolerances on MFH kits are the thickness of a coat of paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiderbill Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 Your work is brilliant. I have the version B of this car. Haven't built models for decades and this is certainly daunting, but made less so because of your excellent posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NS60 Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 Engine fitted had to elongate the engine mounting holes as the fit was not quite right. Engine mated to gearbox. Exhaust manifolds fitted. Next came the steering rack, hubs and dampers, it was a sod to align everything and not get it pigeon toed. everything was assembled with epoxy even though MFH give you 1mm screws its too easy to strip them, which I did.!! Set the wheels with a slight turn to them always think it shows a car off better. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrejet Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Loving this: one day.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 Stunning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NS60 Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Radiator fitted along with hoses and stays, But I have a problem so if anyone out there knows please let me know. The problem is this, the instructions show 2 pipes connected top and bottom of the rad in the middle going to the oil filter, you can see the fittings, not fitted the hoses yet. Did Ferrari have the system on this car of twin coolers one for water and one for oil together. A very learned friend of mine said they did do this on certain cars. I've searched the web and can't find any pics showing a hose going into the center of the rad. surely Mr MFH can't have got it that wrong?? So anyway lets see what info I get back, there are so few pictures on the web of the 315/335. Next is the firewall,battery fuesboard etc. Parts painted ready for final detailing of the firewall itself. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NS60 Posted August 17, 2017 Author Share Posted August 17, 2017 Firewall finished just a bit of wiring and plumbing to add. Seems a strange place to put ignition coils, but suppose it keeps them dry and easy to get at. Couldn't resist seeing what it would look like with the body on. What a beautiful shape, I only hope my modelling skills can do it justice. Still a long way to go Next is add gearstick and rods. Also start clean up on bodyshell and add inner wheel arches making sure it still fits the chassis. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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