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vallejo model color


Panzer Vor!!!

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Panzer are you talking Vallejo Model or Vallejo Model Air ?

 

Model has a high opacity quite thick. I would say to paint a large area you would need to thin,a lot, to obtain a good finish with out brush marks

It does dry very quickly so you may need a retarder.

 

Model air is designed for airbrush use. However it is relatively thin, compared to Model, and brushes well. As Model it does dry rapidly. Being a

very thin paint it does airbrush well and gives a very consistent depth even with one coat. With hand brushing numerous coats are required to

build up a consistent overall even look.

 

Look on the Vallejo site which has an incredible depth of information. Bets info. is in the question and answer section.

 

Laurie

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13 minutes ago, Panzer Vor!!! said:

Its Model color I,m looking at  read the answers section but tbh that just trots out the company line  

I was interested in knowing what  people who had used it thought ??

 

Actually they may trot it out but the info is spot on. Best info about products in depth of any manufacturer.

They also have a very reliable and good customer service.

 

In the end it is the man on the end of the brush that will determine how well the paint goes on. The

best is to try it yourself and see if it is for you. £1:70 a bottle. Like obtaining a wife there are many

preferences although it is  fair to state far easier to change paint types.

 

Proof of the pudding is in the eating. The aroma before the eating can be cheekily misleading.

 

Laurie

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Used them plenty of time, never painted something as large as a 1/35 Tiger but painted a few 1/72 aircraft models with them.

Can they be used with a brush? They sure can ! In my experience they are amongst the best paints around for brush-painting. They need a good stir, very good, they can be a bit thick out of the bottle but they can be easily thinned with water. If you're painting a large surface you may want to add some retardant in the mix, however don't use too much as the paint may never dry (guess how I know...). As with every acrylic of this type, they will not stick to bare plastic, a primer is absolutely necessary.

Personally I consider myself a bad painter and I always struggled to get a good surface free of brush marks, and this with any paint. With the Model Color line I still remain a bad painter but I feel that I managed to finally get acceptable results. Not that this line is the only one I'm now happy with, I had similarly good results with Xtracrylics and Lifecolor. Ok, good for my limited skills with a brush, not good in absolute terms...

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I agree with Giorgio N (except the bit about him being a bad painter, I'm sure that's just modesty). 

 

Regarding Model Air, some say it's of no use for brush painting but it is. You just need lots of coats, and as this is regarded as good practice, that's surely a bonus. On the other hand, if it comes ready thinned it's not as good value for money.

 

John.

 

PS My experience is based on painting single engined aircraft in 1/72 scale, though.

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Actually both Model Air & Model come thinned. The major difference between the

two is that Model Air ingredients are more finely ground. Pick up a bottle of each

and there is a considerable weight difference.

 

Laurie

 

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I only use Vallejo and brush paint most of the time.  The largest model I've painted so far is a 1:350 scale LST.2 landing craft and the paint covered very easily.

 

Mike

 

136_finished_resized_1000_wide.jpg

 

 

175_the_approach_resized_1000_wide.jpg

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1 hour ago, LaurieS said:

Actually both Model Air & Model come thinned. The major difference between the

two is that Model Air ingredients are more finely ground. Pick up a bottle of each

and there is a considerable weight difference.

 

Laurie

 

 

This difference is very noticeable in the metallics, the Model Air metallics are great, with very fine pigments. The standard ones are much less so, I find them almost useless except for small details

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Great answers guys much appreciated

Tried on a old model brush painted straight on to unprimed surface  ---no brush marks but seems to have a sheen

Anyone know where I can get a colour chart from ??

Not on line  I like the old fashioned paper type

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9 minutes ago, Panzer Vor!!! said:

Great answers guys much appreciated

Tried on a old model brush painted straight on to unprimed surface  ---no brush marks but seems to have a sheen

Anyone know where I can get a colour chart from ??

Not on line  I like the old fashioned paper type

Do you not have a local stockist? They should have them. If not, I can get one, (at great expense) :P

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2 hours ago, Panzer Vor!!! said:

No i don't have a local stockist

 

 

If not, I can get one, (at great expense)   Shades of Julian !!!

 

How much ???

I'll ask my local stockist to bring one with her on Thursday.

(of course it's shades of Julien, we use the same supplier)

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I have found them to be very good, but incredibly fragile, possibly the most fragile of hobby paints I have ever used. So if you plan on using them as your 'go to' paint, make sure you don't handle them too much, or rub them against anything prior to putting a hard wearing clear coat on.

 

Handy hint: Italeri Acrylics, which come in many specific military colours, come in bigger bottles and are usually more cost effective; guess what? They are Vallejo model colours in specifically brewed colours for Italeri. Same paint. I usually go for them before heading for the Vallejo paint.

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If you are using Vallejo Air then preparation, as in many things in life, is the way to success.

 

My way is to just prior to painting use a 1200 gauge wet and dry paper with lots of water and give

the plastic a thorough wet and dry. 1200 gauge will give a good key for the primer but will not make

marks or scratches which will be seen through the paint and gives a base to a good smooth paint finish.

 

I Prime with Synylerez. If there are parts to make good  shown up by the primer wet and dry the

edge of the primer disturbed during making good. Then prime over those parts. Not necessary to

re-prime the whole thing as Synylerez is thin & the join will not be visible by just priming over the

disturbed area.

 

Lightly wet and dry the primer with a 1550 gauge paper. Wipe down the primer with a decorators wipe

which has a small % of IPA. B & Q's own is good (for got do the same before priming). First coat Vallejo

Air thin 30% and give a thin mist coat. Let it dry a couple of hours then recoat. Then if necessary

another coat 2 hrs later. Make sure your edges get the same thickness of paint as the main areas.

 

Follow that procedure leaving to cure for at least 24 hrs. Following that I get a good paint base.

I have masked with tape and white tack which, apart from a few mishaps

in over 15 years, has released perfectly with this procedure.

 

 

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I'll pile on with everyone else and endorse Model Color as a great hand brushable paint. I mix 1-1 with Future to both retard and smooth out brush strokes. Most I've done so far is a cockpit, but I'm tempted to paint the entire exterior. It's too easy for me to use my airbrush, so I just grab that. 

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16 hours ago, Greenshirt said:

I'll pile on with everyone else and endorse Model Color as a great hand brushable paint. I mix 1-1 with Future to both retard and smooth out brush strokes. Most I've done so far is a cockpit, but I'm tempted to paint the entire exterior. It's too easy for me to use my airbrush, so I just grab that. 

 

Adding a few drops of Future/Klear also helps when airbrushing the same paint, the resulting finish is even smoother and more durable than it is using the paint alone

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