Problems hand brushing acrylic matt yellow.

[Vinnie]

As the title suggests, I've found it impossible to get a satisfactory finish using Revel Aqua, Humbrol or Tamiya. Thinned to my usual consistency it's like painting yellow water and working through less diluted mixtures, it gets claggy and conceals surface details. I have a project in mind which will require a lot of yellow so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Silver Fox]

Have you tried Vallejo? I find there yellow covers well but does need some thinning to avoid brush marks.

[LaurieS]

Best yellow, brings back memories first baby, is believe it or not.

"Stynylrez" yellow primer. Prop ends I used to put 3 or 4 coats of Vallejo and it looked thick and horrible.

 

One coat of Styny and perfect yellow and just a thin coat as is all Styny primer.

 

Laurie

Edited June 3, 2017 by LaurieS

[Vinnie]

Thanks. I shall try both suggestions. I don't know why yellow causes me a problem.

[bentwaters81tfw]

Yellow I find is an awful colour to paint, likewise gloss red, or white.

The answer comes in a spray can.

[Vinnie]

Thanks bw. I am considering that as an option, but I don't have a local hobby shop. That makes mail order for rattle cans an expensive option.

[Silver Fox]

If you are in Mansfield, Nottinghamshire, Wargames Emporium in the Handley Shopping Arcade stocks Vallejo. Give it a good shake and thin it a touch it should be OK. I painted a 1/144 Harvard in it and two coats were enough to cover it nicely. Just don't try to do it in thick coat.

[Vinnie]

Thanks, Silver Fox. I appreciate the information. I wasn't aware of this shop.

[bentwaters81tfw]

1 hour ago, Vinnie said:

Thanks bw. I am considering that as an option, but I don't have a local hobby shop. That makes mail order for rattle cans an expensive option.

You have a Halfords in Nottingham Road.

[Vinnie]

1 hour ago, bentwaters81tfw said:

You have a Halfords in Nottingham Road.

I hadn't considered automotive paint. If it doesn't react with model acrylics that would open more possibilities. Thanks again.

[bentwaters81tfw]

6 minutes ago, Vinnie said:

I hadn't considered automotive paint. If it doesn't react with model acrylics that would open more possibilities. Thanks again.

I use Halfords auto paint all the time. You can't beat their appliance white, or Nissan Silver for NMF finishes.

 

[Vinnie]

That is a very impressive NMF finish

[Max Headroom]

You've not mentioned when brushing the yellow, but do you use a white base coat? Then several thin coats of yellow gradually built up. If necessary, the brush marks can be smoothed out with micromesh.

 

However, spraying is easier! I would still have the white base coat though.

 

Trevor

[Vinnie]

1 hour ago, Max Headroom said:

You've not mentioned when brushing the yellow, but do you use a white base coat? Then several thin coats of yellow gradually built up. If necessary, the brush marks can be smoothed out with micromesh.

 

However, spraying is easier! I would still have the white base coat though.

 

Trevor

Thanks, Trevor. What grade of micromesh would you use for that? 

[Max Headroom]

I bought a set from Hannants. There are about half a dozen different grits in my pack which are used in sequence from rough to smooth, although to be honest to touch, none actually feel rough. Each grade is used at a 90 degree angle to the last and is wrapped around a firm piece of foam. 

 

The description of this sounds like mine...

 

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ALCLADPC

 

Here is the 1/72 Airfix P-51D which was given the treatment (just be aware that this is after a coat of matt varnish)

 

 

I will always 'micromesh' brushed models from now on.

 

Trevor

 

[yarvelling]

I find that if brushing Humbrol 24 Yellow, then a good white sprayed undercoat is essential, and then I mix acrylic 24 with a roughly equal drop of water in a dish, and use a wide, flat brush to apply a thin coat over the primer.  When dry, apply a second coat.  That is normally enough.

I do this before any other camo painting.... if fuselage stripe, wingtips, and cowlings..... then mask, and spray the camouflage ....... just done this on a Zvezda BF109-F2 and the yellow fuselage ring, and wing-tips, came out really nice and smooth, and even....    

In the past, I would be painting yellow over the camo - even with a white brushed undercoat, but it never looked too good!  I use a Humbrol white rattle-can for the undercoat/primer...perfect for the yellow wide-brushed mix   Haven't tried the Vallejo RLM04 yellow yet.....

[Julien]

As a committed brush painter for years, and even though I have an Air Brush I still use the brushes, white and yellow I was never able to master to a standard I liked. They are best sprayed, even if from a rattle can.

 

Julien

[Vinnie]

On 6/6/2017 at 4:52 PM, Silver Fox said:

If you are in Mansfield, Nottinghamshire, Wargames Emporium in the Handley Shopping Arcade stocks Vallejo. Give it a good shake and thin it a touch it should be OK. I painted a 1/144 Harvard in it and two coats were enough to cover it nicely. Just don't try to do it in thick coat.

Hi SF. Just thought I'd let you know I visited this shop today and they had what seemed a full rack of Tamiya acrylics and the brushes I wanted. 5 mile each way instead of 30+ round trip, and cheaper. Happy days! Thanks again for the suggestion.