Halifax B Mk. I/II/GRII - Revell 1/72

[CedB]

12 hours ago, giemme said:

Can't remeber if Oyumaru was part of your previous casting experiments - anyway, looking forward to what turns out

 

Thanks Giorgio - I had tried the stuff but not got on with it - it wasn't 'wrapping' around the master:

 

 

 

Another BMer posted that you need to put the stuff in very hot water; he does it straight from the kettle (watch your fingers!) so I thought I'd try it again (see below). Leon also told me he'd got on well with it so worth a try.

 

Gould Stephen by Ced Bufton, on Flickr

 

Thanks Simon - luckily our postie delivers in the morning so my naps are uninterrupted! Good luck with the Mk III  

 

Thanks John - caught by the PB money grab!! Hopefully they'll see sense and stop their nonsense, or suffer for their greed! Flickr's good and you can download your pics from PB; Keith says it's slow, presumably because everyone's downloading their photos.

 

Right, Oyumaru out:

 

 

Nice mug of boiling water, bits chopped up with the scalpel and dropped in. MUCH better hot (fnaar) and it moulds nicely round the master, making sure there's no bubbles (I hope):

 

 

This is when I started panicking in case it hardened up (snurf snurf) before I got the second mould ready. I SHOULD have made sure I'd made some locating holes or some other way to make sure the halves located accurately. Anyway, I pressed on (see what I did there?):

 

 

The good thing about the clear stuff is that you can kid yourself that you can see if the mould is all around the master. Aha ha ha.

Done now and (what looks like) a suitable tool chosen to push in the Milliput, Superfine chosen (just because):

 

 

Used the 'sausage method' suggested by @AlexN to make sure the stuff mixes:

 

 

 

Knead, knead. Then I realised I had to get the stuff in the head (behave yourselves now) so I shaped a.... shape and shoved it in (oh DO behave you lot). Filled the moulds and then realised I had to join the halves so scraped off the excess on both halves, applied some water and smoothed with a more suitable tool:

 

 

 

It's now been put aside to dry. How long do I leave that? According to their website "...at normal temperatures (20-25 deg C) Milliput becomes rock hard in three to four hours.".

Later then.

[amblypygid]

Looks v cool, Ced. I still think I prefer the look of the latex/resin/lego moulds, if only because they involve lego. I'd not heard of this Oyumaru before now, but I see it's yet another overlap of the metal clay world (my wife is perennially "borrowing" my tools for her jewellery work, though I do get to borrow her Dremel-like now and then).

[CedB]

Thanks Chris. The other moulds have worked well but, for this one, I thought I'd have trouble with bubbles 'cos it's long and thin... we shall see!  

[CedB]

Are we there yet? Post was two hours ago so this is a bit premature:

 

 

Still a bit soft but nice detail, so far. That's the original underneath.

[giemme]

Looks pretty good so far, Ced!

 

Ciao

[CedB]

Thanks Giorgio. He's out!

 

 

 

Lots of flash, but then it is a 'short run'  

 

The white Milliput is notoriously difficult to mix as you can't see the colour change. It's still a bit soft so I took the opportunity to clean off most of the excess:

 

 

I think I'll leave it overnight and then, hopefully when it's harder, get rid of the rest of the excess. Not too bad though.

[amblypygid]

I'd say that's come out well, Ced. Certainly better than "not bad".

[giemme]

It certainly retained the surface detail very well!

 

Ciao

[keefr22]

43 minutes ago, CedB said:

Lots of flash, but then it is a 'short run'  

 

 

He looks tall enough to me....

 

Keith  

[TonyTiger66]

He looks a lot better than one of the figures from the Airfix Halifax Mk III.

 

There's one, I think maybe intended to stand furtively behind a bulkhead, that is frankly really scary.

 

It looks like the figure is based on the one in 'The Scream' by Edvard Munch.

 

I believe that I have this petrifying apparition painted, made almost human, somewhere in my BoB (Box of, erm, spare bits).

 

I may post him (/it) to you. With other less scary figures.

 

Please tell me that this figure has a face Ced  

 

Best regards

Tonyt

 

 

[Biggles87]

It looks like he's sobbing into his pillow poor chap, probably lost all his photos on PB.

 

John

[CedB]

Thanks Chris and Giorgio

Thanks Keith - get your coat!

Thanks TT and John - he does have a face, of sorts, but he may be concentrating (if not crying) into the pillow bomb sight. Perhaps he's targeting the PB people? Here with the master:

 

 

and, although still a bit soft (uh oh!) a close up after some gentle clean up:

 

 

I'm hoping that it'll harden up (fnaar!) overnight. Oh wait, didn't I say that yesterday? It maybe that some idiot didn't mix the Milliput properly. Rats.

In any event, some other candidates have been chosen for the rest of the crew:

 

 

Note the legless figures that Benedikt helpfully suggested would be good for turrets. Great idea!

[Beard]

Ced,

I've been steadily making Airfix kits lately and have a few pilots seeking gainful employment. Would you like them?

[CedB]

Yes please Simon, all donations very welcome!

I'm still not fully confident of the moulding - hard to maintain the fine detail with my amateur attempts.

[AlexN]

I'm trying to think back to my specific battles with Milliput when I did my 'experiments' with an Oyumaru knockoff and Eduard Spit Mk IX bits - and boiling water.

 

Registration dimples were essential (a piece of plastic runner or a cocktial stick - or any other stick-like object, really). These are made in the first mould half before it gels;

 

I filled each mold half separately making sure that there were no voids - probably the trickiest part of the process;

 

Squished the halves together so that the excess formed as thin a flash as possible, but in the process you have to watch out that the pressure doesn't end up enlarging the cast compared with the original. All of my knockoffs I mean copies were larger than the originals;

 

My best results were with fluid epoxy glue used for sticking together full-sized sea-going boats, which is probably beyond the scope of this forum. It also was tricky to work. Second best was a similarly fluid porcelain repair epoxy, but was quite a bit more brittle than the boat-builiding glue, especially when being drilled;

 

The results are still visible, thanks to not using BotoPhu**et...

 

My tuppence-worth.

 

Cheers,

Alex.  <-- not an Oyumaru copy...

[bbudde]

Hello Ced. What about Latexpaste or Latex milk + Paste for a quick, but  not so resistent and long living as silicon moulds, for some figures:

https://www.amazon.de/EFCO-Latexpaste-500-g/dp/B003X8MHD4

A bit lazy here,  as I struggle with some dicast paintings for quite a while ( did one five times and now it's back in the thinner, because it is/did match not perfect for me, Hmm Another try!!) and other things here. There seem to be also much problems with photos here on BM, as I don't see several ones on different topics here.  Don't know. Cheers

Edited July 2, 2017 by bbudde

[bbudde]

For all, who try get it perfect and it will no go into that

 

Cheers and goodnight to all.

 

[CedB]

Thanks Alex - I watched your moulding with interest and, like you, I seem to have ended up with a larger copy. Perhaps the Oyumaru shrinks as it sets? Hmmm. Must remember the dimples next time - or something that helps position the halves  

Thanks Benedikt -  I hope the die cast restoration goes well. Thanks for the music!  

[Beard]

9 hours ago, CedB said:

Yes please Simon, all donations very welcome!

 

I'll pop them in the post later this week.

[AlexN]

1 hour ago, CedB said:

Thanks Alex - I watched your moulding with interest and, like you, I seem to have ended up with a larger copy. Perhaps the Oyumaru shrinks as it sets? Hmmm. Must remember the dimples next time - or something that helps position the halves  

Thanks Benedikt -  I hope the die cast restoration goes well. Thanks for the music!  

 

My thoughts on this, which I meant to put in the post above and forgot to, are that the mould gets worked and distended with all the squishing and squashing to remove air bubbles and squeeze the flash thin (in my case at least). Where gaming figures are concerned (per the 'blue stuff' video on Ewe-choob) it doesn't matter very much, but where (especially) 1/72nd model aircraft parts and figures are concerned, it does.

 

Cheers,

Alex.

[Martian]

That's a good idea, heavy bombers for use on Photobucket.

 

Martian

[Vicarage Vee]

Go on, go the whole resin casting route it's fun...

 

https://www.dwrplastics.com/product-category/5375f3863711c/Low-Odour-Beige-Fast-Cast-Resin

 

https://www.dwrplastics.com/product-category/537334fad6355/General-Purpose

 

If not, I've got a couple of those Matchbox bomb aimers that you could have gratis.

[perdu]

Wot vee says

 

There is also a malleable wax kind of stuff that might be better than oyuwotsit

 

I saw it at Telford a couple of years ago

 

One of those "I'll pop back later and get some of that!" moments, went back, they'd sold out...

 

 

[keefr22]

1 hour ago, perdu said:

There is also a malleable wax kind of stuff that might be better than oyuwotsit

 

Siligum Bill? As per;

 

https://www.beadsdirect.co.uk/siligum-two-part-mould-paste-kit-with-400-bands/BDKIT609/?gclid=CJXuzdrj7dQCFe6_7Qod00QMrw

 

I've also got a tin of dental moulding wax somewhere that I've had for years but haven't even opened. I think it's used much the same way as Oyamaru. I still prefer rubber & resin though! (does that need a fnaar Ced?!)

 

Keith

[perdu]

39 minutes ago, keefr22 said:

 

Siligum Bill? As per;

 

https://www.beadsdirect.co.uk/siligum-two-part-mould-paste-kit-with-400-bands/BDKIT609/?gclid=CJXuzdrj7dQCFe6_7Qod00QMrw

 

I've also got a tin of dental moulding wax somewhere that I've had for years but haven't even opened. I think it's used much the same way as Oyamaru. I still prefer rubber & resin though! (does that need a fnaar Ced?!)

 

Keith

Could be Keith but I think it was on the Sylmasta stand at the Nats

 

400 bands?

 

Is that something I need to know about?

 

Grimethorpe Colliery and 399 others?