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Another old Frog build


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My latest "arms length" build. Original tool Frog Typhoon. While mine is the header card version from the 70s the tool itself is from 1959 I believe.

 

Other than using Xtradecals and blocking off the oil cooler with a bit of plastic card it's entirely box stock. Like my previous Frog Hunter it has no wheel wells. Unlike the Hunter there is no pilot head molded in, the cockpit is simply a large hole.

 

I used Tamiya acrylics for all colors and decided to keep the weathering to a minimum. Panel lines, like my 109K, are basically mechanical pencil with 2B lead.

 

I realize it's a far cry from Airfix's new offering but I still enjoyed building and painting it and will eventually build the better Airfix kit which I also have.

 

 

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It's always pleasantly surprising how well these old, old kits turn particularly when built with care and passion. They were made to be built weren't they?

Thanks for sharing.

Cheers

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Hiya Lowbrow.

 

That looks a great finish.

Can you tell me,was it airbrushed?

Are Tamiya acrylics good for airbrushing?

 

Airbrushing novice here and wanting to learn how to get the best out of my new toy you see.

 

Thanks,Ken.

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Great job on this ante-diluvian Typhoon. It does scrub up well with a lot of TLC.

Funny, I do have it in my stash, but I do not recall the model not having any wheel wells... I will have to revisit it, to be sure, to be sure.

 

Well done!

JR

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1 hour ago, John D.C. Masters said:

Lovely build of an older kit.  Thanks for the info on the panel lines...I'll us that on my next build.  

 

Yeah, I paint the model in matt finish then draw the panel lines on before I spray on the floor wax. Going through the gloss/matt finish process tones down the metallic look of the graphite and seals it in as well. I generally use strips of masking tape as a straight edge.

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1 hour ago, Kenny Stevens said:

Hiya Lowbrow.

 

That looks a great finish.

Can you tell me,was it airbrushed?

Are Tamiya acrylics good for airbrushing?

 

Airbrushing novice here and wanting to learn how to get the best out of my new toy you see.

 

Thanks,Ken.

 

Hi Ken,

 

Yes, everything is airbrushed. Tamiya acrylics are excellent for airbrushing. They require minimal thinning. I generally find about 10-20% thinning medium ( I use water) to 80-90% paint.

 

IMHO, the best way to come to grips with airbrushing is to do a lot of it. It really comes down to feel, and that feel only comes with experience.

 

I'll also add one of the most important tips I can think of...keep your brush clean. Learn to disassemble and clean it thoroughly and do it after every spray session. Not all will agree with this, but to me, it's very important to ensure maximum performance and predictability. 

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Oh yesss .... like meeting an old friend you haven't seen for years.  

 

I was very excited when this kit appeared in 1959 as it meant I could stop trying to hollow out the radiator fairing of the balsa Typhoon I was trying to build, using a broken razor blade. The kit had some flaws - an elongated and blunt spinner, fat rear fuselage, thick fin and an undercarriage crude by todays standard (although it was superior to that on Airfix's first Typhoon which appeared about the same time). But it had some 'advanced' features too - exhaust stubs that protruded through a slot in the fuselage shell, a rather elegant propeller with a separate spinner and, for the time, a thin canopy.  If I remember correctly it had markings inscribed on the plastic to aid decal placement; mmm ...

 

Decal research was not too advanced in those days. Codes were FD-N, which seem to have been scrambled from an early IPMS mag that featured a photo of an 'F' coded Typhoon alleged to be of 416 Sqn, whose unit codes were known to be 'DN'. A unit that only flew Spits during the war and its immediate aftermath. So its a pleasure to see this beautifully painted model in authentic markings, with little attempt to correct the intrinsic flaws.  It looks so much better than the ones I made!  It is also a relief to see a 198 Sqn Typhoon, especially TP-V MN526, depicted without the usual red codes - which I believe never existed.  I wish Edgar was still here to argue about it.

 

Thank you Lowbrow

CT

 

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Hello and welcome to the Forum,Lowbrow. I admire everything about this Typhoon build.As fellow colleagues have already mentioned this fabulous model can rub shoulders with the latest creations without doubt.It's a credit to Frog and also your Goodself.Superb work and results.

😉👍 All the best,Paul.

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On 26/05/2017 at 18:12, Lowbrow said:

 

Hi Ken,

 

Yes, everything is airbrushed. Tamiya acrylics are excellent for airbrushing. They require minimal thinning. I generally find about 10-20% thinning medium ( I use water) to 80-90% paint.

 

IMHO, the best way to come to grips with airbrushing is to do a lot of it. It really comes down to feel, and that feel only comes with experience.

 

I'll also add one of the most important tips I can think of...keep your brush clean. Learn to disassemble and clean it thoroughly and do it after every spray session. Not all will agree with this, but to me, it's very important to ensure maximum performance and predictability. 

Thanks for that Lowbrow.

 

Wow,just plain water then.

Sounds like I need to get some practice in with my Iwata.

Mark(Miggers)told me that it's really important to keep everything as clean as possible,he should know,he's got alot of

experience and skill with airbrushes plus,like me,he's professional paint sprayer,and I know it pays big dividends to keep

guns good and clean.

I can get gun wash from work,so it shouldn't be a problem keeping my airbrush clean at all.

 

Many thanks,Ken.

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Just lovely :)

I have two in the stash and I've been fretting over if I should sell or build. This makes me decide on *build*!

 

The canopy is nice; is it original?

Gorgeous paintwork.

:goodjob: 

TonyT

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