Bubba Kingfloat Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 Help! It seems that every CBI-based Mustang (and others) I want to build has a DF loop on the fuselage spine, but no kit I know of has one included (speaking only of 1/48th; I know some of the 1/72nd kits have them). My scratched attempts look horrible, so I'm asking what others do to make them. I'm "assuming" looped wire and built up base? Thanks in advance! Paolo Added the ubiquitous 1st ACG P-51A photo: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bb/North_American_P-51A_061023-F-1234P-011.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFlint Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 for my models of "Carol's Daddy" and "Mrs. Virginia" I am planning on stealing them from P-40 kits. looks like the angle of the spine might be close enough. but, I haven't actually done it yet so I can't guarantee it will work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 20 hours ago, Bubba Kingfloat said: Help! It seems that every CBI-based Mustang (and others) I want to build has a DF loop on the fuselage spine, but no kit I know of has one included (speaking only of 1/48th; I know some of the 1/72nd kits have them). My scratched attempts look horrible, so I'm asking what others do to make them. I'm "assuming" looped wire and built up base? Thanks in advance! Paolo Added the ubiquitous 1st ACG P-51A photo: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bb/North_American_P-51A_061023-F-1234P-011.jpg First off, you get a Cheerio and thin the dickens out of it! No, seriously, in 1/48 you could either loop wire or sprue around a former of the desired diameter. If using sprue, overlap the two ends and cut both with a single edge razor blade, then secure with Microweld or MEK. For the base, you might be able to use the stub mounting for a 5" HVAR, which looks like it has a suitable aerofoil-shaped section. Be sure to mount the place where the two ends were joined to the base to help hide the joint. Going to an auto parts or hardware store and looking at O-ring assortments might yield one of the desired diameter, but might be too thick for 1/48 scale. That's as far as my thinking takes me. Taking one from a multi-engined kit would be a pretty expensive way to go, but I must admit I have purchased kits for a prop, set of wheels, engine, etc. if there was no other alternative for a project that I was determined to build (I hate to admit this, but I bought several of the old Monogram box scale A-26 and B-25H kits back when they were cheap just to get those beautiful Hamilton Standard props!) Yes, I know I am one sick puppy! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 (edited) I just cut down the tail ring on a British bomb from an ICM Spitfire, just sliced off a really thin piece and glued it on my A-20. It's worth a whack. Good luck on that. Cheers Edited May 22, 2017 by Spitfire addict Auto correct got me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mungo1974 Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 All the 1/48 Hasegawa P-51D.K boxings have them on the sprues,someone may have one or two sitting around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubba Kingfloat Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 Mungo- And of course I have Tamiya and Accurate Miniatures! Thanks for the suggestions all...using the HVAR stubs might work as I have more than a few of those sitting around. I'm actually surprised that I haven't found aftermarket loops anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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