Jump to content

Lavochkin La-7 ; 72nd scale eduard kit .


Recommended Posts

Hello everyone , I built this kit as part of the "From Russia with Love GB" . The kit goes together without any trouble whatsoever and is up to usual eduard standards . A mistake is the cowling red doesn't quite matches the decal though in my defence , they did when the decal was on the sheet .  Weathered the model by post shading various shades of base colour and oil ; the wing root chipping was done by salt masking while the chipping along panel lines were done by a fine paint brush .  

26ED42C7-50A5-4073-8EEE-87703AE6AC35_zps

52301DCC-4D9C-409E-8AB0-60BDE8110F1A_zps

3FC2E411-41D8-40A5-8A40-BF677DCEBD25_zps

AD94E4F1-56EC-4B74-A5AD-4762EE38A529_zps

B4F12A72-7955-4BDA-8DDB-B1A045C8F230_zps

Regards , 
Basu Roy 

  • Like 26
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone for your kind words :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, Shelliecool said:

It looks stonking! I'm just about to finish the profipack version of the La-7 and love the level of weathering you have gone to. Any tips are greatly appreciated! 

Michelle. 


Thanks :) , I will jot down the steps followed during painting and weathering -
1.  Painted and masked the NMF panel behind exhaust as well as sprayed the wing roots with the same paint . Masked around the wing roots using salt masking technique .
2. Sprayed the base colours .
3.  I mixed lighter shades of the dark grey and sprayed it inside the panels without following any pattern . 
4. I used oil - mainly white and to a lesser extent , sepia , to further break down the surface uniformity . I did this by applying tiny(really tiny - pinhead size) dots of oil along the leading edge of the wing and then drawing them along the wind flow using a brush . The underside blue was weathered in similar fashion .
5. The small paint chips along panel lines were painted  on using a fine brush . 
6. The exhaust streaks were airbrushed using a mix of black and hull red . I personally feel I overdid the streaks and they are one thing I wish I could tone down . 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Basuroy said:


Thanks :) , I will jot down the steps followed during painting and weathering -
1.  Painted and masked the NMF panel behind exhaust as well as sprayed the wing roots with the same paint . Masked around the wing roots using salt masking technique .
2. Sprayed the base colours .
3.  I mixed lighter shades of the dark grey and sprayed it inside the panels without following any pattern . 
4. I used oil - mainly white and to a lesser extent , sepia , to further break down the surface uniformity . I did this by applying tiny(really tiny - pinhead size) dots of oil along the leading edge of the wing and then drawing them along the wind flow using a brush . The underside blue was weathered in similar fashion .
5. The small paint chips along panel lines were painted  on using a fine brush . 
6. The exhaust streaks were airbrushed using a mix of black and hull red . I personally feel I overdid the streaks and they are one thing I wish I could tone down . 

Thanks that's great.....can I ask about salt masking? Not tried this!

Thanks Michelle. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Shelliecool said:

Thanks that's great.....can I ask about salt masking? Not tried this!

Thanks Michelle. 


Salt masking steps -
1. Spray the paint you wish to expose via chipping - in this case , metal aluminium .
2. Wet the surface slightly . It should NOT be dripping wet , just moist . 
3. Sprinkle table salt over the wet surface - what happens is some of salt get stuck on the surface as hard crystals after getting moistened in a hapazhard pattern that closely mimics paint chipping .
4. Spray the top colour . This should be done at a low pressure to not blow away the salt crystals . Keep in mind that around a third of the salt is blow away during airbrushing so overmask initially . 

The process is very easy but there is one negative - some paints , especially tamiya acrylic , develope a milky complexion near the salt crystals and this looks extremely ugly  .  I however read that on application of clear coat , the milky layer vanishes . I can confirm that was the case with this model . Make sure the paint is dry when it hits the surface ; the milky complexion perhpas happen because a wet layer of paint slightly disolves the salt crystal . 

I will suggest that you refer to this youtube video as well -

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fantastic rendition of this classic Russian airplane, beautiful paintjob and weathering.

The only thing that irritates me is the difference of shade between the red theeth on the nose (decal, I suppose?) and the areas painted red.

That, of course, is just a very tiny irritation ... !

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Roman Schilhart said:

Fantastic rendition of this classic Russian airplane, beautiful paintjob and weathering.

The only thing that irritates me is the difference of shade between the red theeth on the nose (decal, I suppose?) and the areas painted red.

That, of course, is just a very tiny irritation ... !


Thanks :) and yes you are correct , the decals are different shade from the painted nose. I did the mistake of comparing the shades when the decals were on the sheet but on application , I found they went a shade lighter . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brilliant La-7! The weathering looks very convincing, and if you're worried about the engine exhaust stains being too heavy, I wouldn't. The ASh-82 engine put out quite a bit of exhaust. I have one of these in the stash, which I shall return too, perhaps sooner than later seeing what great results can be achieved with the kit (mine won't look anywhere nearly as good as yours, though).

 

Regards,

 

Jason

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎19‎.‎05‎.‎2017 at 6:56 PM, Basuroy said:


Thanks :) and yes you are correct , the decals are different shade from the painted nose. I did the mistake of comparing the shades when the decals were on the sheet but on application , I found they went a shade lighter . 

 

I know this problem very well, has happened to me, too!

Top quality build, however.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...